Archive through January 10, 2009

[jbaker]

good morning: all so far about 5 inchs in northern illinois taking out the 128 with my qa36. last snow i had problems with the snap ring in the angle gear box popping off put a new one on and going to give it a test, hope old one was just strecthed out.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard, nice try.

I do like the 782 and wouldn't mind having one but then I'd need all new attachments and after 40 years of controlling the hydro with my left hand, I'd have a hard time figuring out the right hand control. My parents had a 2072 that they bought new in 1986 (Art owns it now) I never could get used to the hydro control on it. BTW, I do really like your sun shade.

No new snow here, it was zero degrees, sunny and calm out this morning. Perfect weather for cleaning the chimney, because of the calm not the temp.

 

[bbranstetter]

I've got more snow here than I can handle. Only one problem, Cub won't start. I hate this new regulator that I put in it, there is just no happy meduim what so ever, it just can't seem to keep the battery charged with the lights on. I can get the regulator close when I'm not using lights or at least enought to keep the battery charged but not with the lights. This is driving me nuts.

 

[aschumacher]

Brian B. you running the stock headlamps or did u install halogens? Some halogens are 55w which is about 4 1/2amps, but even 2 is 9 amps which your 13 amp generator should handle. You've been here for a while so I guess you checked all wiring connections, are brushes in S/G good? If everything is proper I dont think you should have to adj the regulator at all. JMHO

 

[jbaker]

just got done outside 5 plus inchs the qa was throwing snow 25feet and better a new snap ring in the angle gear worked fine, I had to make homemade skis to keep the blower floating on the gravel the stock giudes just dug in. I wanted to share some pics but it says their to big can you help me with this Kraig? plus Ihave learned so much from this forum so thanks so much

 

[rrschmitt]

Brennan H,

Professional sandblasting in my area costs about $65-75/hr. I had the frame and fender pan blasted recently on my 169 rebuild and it took 2 hrs time. Smaller parts would take less time but quantity would still likely require a couple hours. I've used the electrolysis rust/paint removal method, which I learned about here on the forum, with very good success for cleaning many of my small parts in a 5 gallon plastic bucket, but it does take longer to do all the parts one or two parts at a time. I "cook" the parts for 1-2 days each, take them out, rinse with water and then take the wire brush to the part to remove any remaining paint immediately after rinsing and then dry thoroughly. The nice part about the electrolysis method is that it lifts all the rust off the surface, even in the pitted areas, and gets you to bare metal

 

[mstetar]

i was wondering, when i sandblast my transmission, can i leve the inspection plate on? and if so will it mess up my gasket?

 

[dsacksteder]

Hey donald tanner, heres my rear light

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff B., if you email your photos to me I'll resize and post them for you. My email is in my profile.

I did the first oil change on Killer today had about 2 hours on the rebuild. The magnetic oil drain plug is pretty slick, (no pun intended), As expected, it had a bunch of VERY fine metal whiskers on it. Sure wish my car and truck were this easy to change oil in.

 

[wmiller]

Brian B 1. Fully charge the battery with a battery charger. 2. Start and warm up the tractor. 3. Use a handheld meter to check the charging system voltage at half throttle or more (cover must be on the regulator when taking readings and the lights off). 4. Voltage at the battery must be atleast 13.8 to 14.5 and fairly stable(cycle the engine speed and check a few times. Toward the upper voltage is preferred. 5. Check the voltage at the generator "A" terminal to see that it is close to the reading at the battery to verify that there are no high resistances (voltage drops) in the circuit. If there is an obvious difference measure the voltage along the circuit th find the problem. 6. Throttle the engine up to operating speed and check the voltage at the battery with the lights on. If it does not stay above the minimum in step 4 the battery will run down. Do step 5 again at this time with the lights on. A high resistance (voltage drop) will often get worse when the electrical load on the system is increased. 7. If the voltage will not stay up you either have a supply problem or the load is too much. If you have a Cub Cadet with the original rubber and fabric covered wiring harness and that wiring runs inside the Right frame rail beside the engine that area is particularly suspect. 8. A digital handheld meter will give more precise readings. A D.C. generator has little or no output at idle, so shut the lights off at idle if possible. You can put the meter in series in the lighting circuit to measure it's total amperage draw,see the instruction with the meter or ask here later,if you are not sure how, don't try it. Make sure the regulator has a clean ground to the frame and also check that the engine ground to the wiring harness is clean and tight. Let us know what you find,good luck!

 

[aaytay]

Really........

http://tinyurl.com/7n59t7

REALLY?!?!?! WTH???????

 

[kmcconaughey]

 

[dsacksteder]

What color primer works the best with yellow paint

 

[glippert]

Art - I'm gonna have to watch that one - I can't believe anyone will take that bait. Then again, they say there's one born every minute...

 

[klejeune]

How do you test to see if there is a draw on the battery when the key is off? For some reason a PO put a rocker switch that has to be turned on to start my 127. The wiring has been totally redone and the neutral safety swith has no wires going to it. If you turn off the rocker switch while the engine is running, it kills the engine.

Does the neutral safety switch maintain current after the engine is started? But only let's power go to the starter if the button is pressed in?

I'm wondering if they wired the switch in place of the safety switch. If I just remove the rocker switch and tie the wires together will that cause a draw on the battery and run it down even if the key is completely off?

First I want to test for battery draw with the switch on, but the key off.

Thanks,
Keith

 

[klejeune]

Dustin,
I'd say white would be a better primer with yellow. I didn't have very good results with gray when I did my CCO.

Had a good visit with Jerry B today. He's got a promising looking 782 there to play/ work with.
I've got pictures on my phone but it won't let me upload directly from an iPhone since it doesn't have a file structure. I'll get them up tomorrow, watching Arizona Cards smash the Panthers right now.

 

[pbell]

Keith
Disconnect the neg battery cable from the battery, and connect a test light or a meter between the cable and the battery post. If the light burns/glows there is a draw.

 

[klejeune]

Thanks Paul, I'll try that.

 

[tteague]

<font color="119911">I did use gray primer on my cub but I do agree that white would have been better.

</font>

 

[kide]

Get your painter's supply to tint white primer yellow......