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Archive through January 09, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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wmakowicki

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 17, 2010
Messages
62
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Wayne Makowicki
I have a 582 with a plow I fit from who knows what. I found someone selling a "wide frame" plow, not sure it will fit. It would go onto a 1210 (I know its a CC machine) I also have a 1200. I would like to be able to swap mowers, plows ect. The whole thing will now come with a 1250. I am going from 1 machine to 4 in a matter of weeks.
 
Dennis-

What's the big deal with removing the grill? It's four bolts and a grunt and makes things sooo much easier. And don't forget the wire coupler if there are headlights. If the tractor has the proper muffler then it can be even nicer. I agree it's nice not to have the extra work but I've always found that when I'm there I'm there for a while so...especially doing pto stuff.

Heck, this might even bring up another debate? Grill vs no grill.
 
WAYNE - I always do PTO work thru the grill screen area. Everything has to come out the frt anyhow, it's tight but enough room. My 70 deoesn't have it's screen in and the 72's comes out with just twisting two little conical springs.

I even pull & install engines with the grill casting still in place. My 72 has lights but I relocated the V/R to back inside the frame under the seat. And my lights have soldered connections, so I'd either have to remove the head light panel or cut & resolder the wire for the lights. And I don't think the straight pipe on the K321 in the 72 would be considered a "proper muffler", but allows room for PTO work.

I look at it as more work, more hardware to remove, keep track of & reinstall, and two less large and somewhat fragile pieces to have to find room for to set around the shop (hood & grill separated). Plus the PTO rockshaft & lever would be floating around loose. It only takes a minute to loosen the turnbuckle with one 7/16" open end wrench and it's out of the way.

The 70 is a "work in process", but eventually will be almost a twin to the 72 in a lot of respects.

The 982 is almost totally stock and will stay that way, to get that Onan out I think grill removal and slide the engine forward would be easiest. That big 4 gal. gas tank & firewall would have to come out otherwise.

I guess I look at it this way, when I replaced the vacuum pump in my PSD, the factory HELM manual started out; 1. Drain radiator; 2. remove radiator; 3. remove serpentine belt; 4. remove fan; 5. remove three bolts from vacuum pump & remove pump.

I started with item #5, and a half hour later opened my second beer with the NEW vacuum pump installed even after switching the pulley from the old pump to the new pump. That's how the Ford dealer service techs make their money, their standard labor rates are based on factory manual operations, but they find ways to do it quicker with less work for the same money! You might not always be able to use power tools or impact tools, but the work gets done quicker.
 
Wayne Shytle (Wshytle) -
i dont want to sound like i am arguing, i cant work on the tractor right now so i cant try these suggestions.but the sleeve, unless I am mistaken, and again, i cant go look at it right now, came off with the shaft. when i pulled the shaft out of the left side of the frame, by sliding it through the right side of the frame, the sleeve stayed on the shaft.
at least, I assume the sleeve is very thin, like sheet metal .
the problem is not getting the shaft free of the frame holes, it is getting it free of both frame holes at the same time.
I have never been able to understand written instructions, I always have to have my hands on the part to understand what people are saying, so next time i am out there, i will look at the sleeve again.
 
Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) -
hold everything.
are we talking sleeve or bushing?
to me, a bushing would be thicker and would stay in the frame, probably need a puller to get it out and be thick like a bearing.
if you are talking about pulling a bushing from the left side frame, then slide the shaft into the left side frame then the larger space in the left frame would allow the shaft enough clearance to be angled out of there, i now understand.
 
oops. looks like operator error.
I just checked the parts book again, it calls it a bushing, not a sleeve.
I got it now, the part on the shaft is not what you are talking about, there is still a bushing in the left side frame.
for some reason, I had it in my head everyone was talking about the sleeve on the shaft.
thanks everyone.
 
Don't worry bout it frank. I'm a hands on guy myself. I'm a machinist, and guys can explain things to me in numbers all they want to and I won't get it til I see it..
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But once I see it, I get it! WOO HOO!!
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12 vs 13 fin details.

Thanks to everyone for providing those details. Interesting discussion on the balance (grenade) gears as well. Is it possible there were K341's built withOUT these gears?

Art - you are throwing sand in the mix. The Spec no. on my 169 13 fin and my son's 169 12 fin are both the same, Spec no. 71154A. I believe this spec is specific to the 169. If we get more postings for the AQS, I believe it will certainly have a different spec no. due to oil fill tube, muffler, starter, etc (remember that Q in AQS is for Quiet, and the S is for electric Start).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die - and they use alot of different specs
 
guys I like to take parts off and get them out of my way.By taking something apart I get a better idea of how they are suppose to work.I find the small bits will end up in one of my five magnetic part trays.If I don`t put it back together that day because I need parts I dump all the bits in a zip bag and label the bag and place that in a box with all the large bits.I take lots of pictures and file them accordingly on my confuser in a file for that tractor.Parts look up also helps sometimes with putting the bits all back where they belong
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. I do love my air tools and have a full set of impact sockets and accessories for the tools. I just bought a 3/8 drive butter fly air impact and it was not a cheap tool ($300.00).But it does work some slick when you have issue with nerve damage and loss of feeling in your hands.I must have four feet of extensions and an eight pack of swivels (the ball type).If the 3/8" drive IR don`t remove a nut then the 1/2" drive will lol.
I was chasing the treads on my 125 and see I should order new head bolts and spacers. It would be nice if Charlie would sell kits for new head bolts on his site
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. I would have an order in now if he did. another thought is I need to buy an in " lb torque wrench real soon also.I have been borrowing one and don`t want to wear out my welcome lol. I think I could by a few Cubs with the money I spent on tools in the last few years,but the right tool does make the job go faster and easier . Called about the forks and the guy is out playing with the county salt truck. so he will call me later.
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dang I`am getting as long winded as Denny and Harry lol. later Don T
 
Frank S.-

Here are some pics of the shaft you're speaking of primed with the bushing/sleeve.

219322.jpg


219323.jpg


219324.jpg


I hope this clears things up. It's really one of the simpler things to work on. It can be a pain if the bushing is rusted onto the shaft. In that case I'd use a bunch of PB Blaster and just let it soak for a good while.
 
Im sure my question has been answered before, but I was wondering if there was a way to mount an Original mower deck under a Cub Cadet 70??
 
Picked up a 105 at a small tractor show. Nice running little tractor. Clean tractor. Someone put a 14hp replacement engine it. Sadly cut the frame so the 14hp would fit. I might can bend these back and have them welded. I like to restore this like it was. Wanted the 14hp for another project. Don't see too many 105s. Now I have my first hydrotatic.
 
Mike- a 105 is a good mowing tractor with the original 10 hp engine. I got 2 of them and they are very dependable. Good choice!!
 
Can a newer 42 spring trip blade be moounted on an Original??? Any Pictures of the lift rod set up would help.
Thanks
 
Thanks Ryan. You don't see too many 105s. I forgot I have an extra 10hp that came out of a 100 at my brothers. I knew I had two 12hp but wanted to make it original. I may use that 10hp even though it's older. Runs great with the 14hp in it. I've run it around the yard The fluids are changed. It's a nice looking Cub. I need to get a light switch and wire up the lights. What kind of tail light did this have?

Michael
Now I have 3 Cubs
 
Michael, A 105 with a 14 horsee is a 147. Thats not a bad tractor either.
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Hey Dave I wish this was a 147! I had a rough 147 long ago. Sold it.

The one I bought yesterday is a 105 with a replacement 14hp. 14hp is a newer black krate engine. They used the original starter gen and 10hp gastank. The rest of the 14hp is new. Not original Cub Cadet just a black replacement. The tractor still has the blue stripe with 105 sticker on the dash. Frame is cut then bent out for the replacement motor. Not a ,factory like a 147 frame where it was cut and welded, but where someone cut the frame and took a hammer to it.

I missed a 147 a few months ago. Was running with tiller for 300. I'm still kicking myself for that one.

I'll post a picture tom. unless the weather is bad.

I would like to have a 10hp for this tractor. I hate to use the eariler 100 10hp I have. Have to change the exaust if I use it. My 100 10hp is all original so I'll keep looking for a 10hp. They aren't too hard to find.
Michael Hale
 
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KRAIG,
Am I correct in saying congraduations are in order? Was headed up to Charlies PLACE (CCS)
when I noticed your name at the top of the page
along with CHARLIES and BRYAN's!
WOW!
ROD
 
Michael Hale

If it all works well why swap out the 14? sounds like a good working machine. While I like my cub to look good I also want it to do work, thats why I bought it. While plowing this weekend pushing piles of snow that other machines couldn't was great. Not so sure the guy next door was looking at the paint job or the raw power of the tractor, I am thinking its what it pushed.
 

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