Morning. Have a creeper question. Took one off a 126 and want to use it on a 70. This particular creeper has the long straight handle with no bends and no extension setup - just a long, straight handle. So, to use it on my 70, or any other short tunnel tractor, can I just shorten the handle and thread for a new knob or is there some bending involved as well? Zero experience with these things as far as different handles so any help would be appreciated. Thanks
-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through January 08, 2014
- Thread starter tbdavis
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
DAVE C. - Non detergent oil is only recommeneded by Kohler for the initial run-in of rebuilt engines, first 5-10 hours of running. And frankly, I don't even like to use it then, typically I use whatever oil I plan on running for break-in, like my 15W-40 or 5W-40 Rotella.
The old IH FARMALL engines had "State of the Art" oil & air filters for their time, but unfortunately the state of the art wasn't so great back then. Yes, the non-detergent oils did not dissolve deposits, they actually helped deposits accumulate, the filters just removed the BIG chunks when they broke away from whatever they were clinging to, and eventually sludge formed which impeded oil flow and return to the pan. Kohler's have good air filters, at least after the 70/100's came out, the dry pleated paper filter elements do a great job, but no oil filters, so oil changes are used to remove deposits and accumulated dirt/deposits in the oil.
A good detergent oil like Rotella, or Mobil Delvac will eventually dissolve and remove those deposits and keep them from re-forming. When you open the engine up for rebuild the inside of the engine will be clean, oil can get to where it's needed and then return easily to the oil pan. I had the valve covers off my Powerstroke diesel engine in my pickup around 250,000 miles to replace the glow plugs and the tops of the heads, great place for sludge to start forming was spotlessly clean. The '51 Farmall M was pretty well sludged up when I got it 8 yrs ago, two changes of Rotella cleaned it up inside too. When SON & I reset the valve tappets 5-6 yrs ago under the valve cover there was no sludge present.
Not sure about the Mobil Delvac oil, but I know Rotella has enough ZDDP additive, and I suspect the Delvac has it too, to prevent accelerated cam lobe & lifter wear that today's gasoline rated oils do not have. No need to run an expensive oil suppliment.
The private branded oils sold by Kohler and B&S would also have enough ZDDP, but probably not as strong of a detergent package in them.
29 yrs ago when I rebuilt my K241 the first time, I broke it in on 10W-40 Valvoline, then about a year later switched to 10W-40 Arco Graphite oil, it had powdered graphite blended into it as a dry film lubricant additive, that oil was coal black right out of the can, but I guess nobody else used it, it went out of production after only a couple years. Then I used Valvoline Turbo V 10W-40, had a better high temp additive package to resist high oil temps in turbo-charged gas engines which were becoming popular. Air-cooled engines run hotter than water-cooled engines so I used it for several years. Then in 1996 when I got my PSD I switched everything over to Rotella 15W-40. The graphite powder in the Arco oil left a thin black deposit in the engine the Turbo V didn't remove. But 8-9 yrs of running Rotella cleaned it right up. When I pulled the engine apart back in 2006 after 20+ yrs and 1400 hours of running it was squeeky clean.
Dad had a small fleet of CC's years ago, 7 or 8 IIRC. Couple of them used oil. He used to buy whatever automotive oil that was on sale, then switched to IH #1 Low Ash 30 weight oil in them. He ran his CC's ONLY in summer. The Kohler's that burned a little oil stopped burning oil, smoking on start-up stopped. Sticking exh valves freed up. So it's not a bad choice for CC's run in summer only.
Probably the most important thing about engine oil is to change it when recommended. Either keep track of hours run with the hour meter on the tractor, or the way I like better, is to keep track of gallons of gas used. Change the oil after every 30-40 gallons of gas used. That takes into account the hard pulling high gas consumption running with higher engine temps, and the light load putt-putting around the yard we all do from time-to-time with low gas usage and relatively cooler engine temps that isn't as hard on the oil.
The old IH FARMALL engines had "State of the Art" oil & air filters for their time, but unfortunately the state of the art wasn't so great back then. Yes, the non-detergent oils did not dissolve deposits, they actually helped deposits accumulate, the filters just removed the BIG chunks when they broke away from whatever they were clinging to, and eventually sludge formed which impeded oil flow and return to the pan. Kohler's have good air filters, at least after the 70/100's came out, the dry pleated paper filter elements do a great job, but no oil filters, so oil changes are used to remove deposits and accumulated dirt/deposits in the oil.
A good detergent oil like Rotella, or Mobil Delvac will eventually dissolve and remove those deposits and keep them from re-forming. When you open the engine up for rebuild the inside of the engine will be clean, oil can get to where it's needed and then return easily to the oil pan. I had the valve covers off my Powerstroke diesel engine in my pickup around 250,000 miles to replace the glow plugs and the tops of the heads, great place for sludge to start forming was spotlessly clean. The '51 Farmall M was pretty well sludged up when I got it 8 yrs ago, two changes of Rotella cleaned it up inside too. When SON & I reset the valve tappets 5-6 yrs ago under the valve cover there was no sludge present.
Not sure about the Mobil Delvac oil, but I know Rotella has enough ZDDP additive, and I suspect the Delvac has it too, to prevent accelerated cam lobe & lifter wear that today's gasoline rated oils do not have. No need to run an expensive oil suppliment.
The private branded oils sold by Kohler and B&S would also have enough ZDDP, but probably not as strong of a detergent package in them.
29 yrs ago when I rebuilt my K241 the first time, I broke it in on 10W-40 Valvoline, then about a year later switched to 10W-40 Arco Graphite oil, it had powdered graphite blended into it as a dry film lubricant additive, that oil was coal black right out of the can, but I guess nobody else used it, it went out of production after only a couple years. Then I used Valvoline Turbo V 10W-40, had a better high temp additive package to resist high oil temps in turbo-charged gas engines which were becoming popular. Air-cooled engines run hotter than water-cooled engines so I used it for several years. Then in 1996 when I got my PSD I switched everything over to Rotella 15W-40. The graphite powder in the Arco oil left a thin black deposit in the engine the Turbo V didn't remove. But 8-9 yrs of running Rotella cleaned it right up. When I pulled the engine apart back in 2006 after 20+ yrs and 1400 hours of running it was squeeky clean.
Dad had a small fleet of CC's years ago, 7 or 8 IIRC. Couple of them used oil. He used to buy whatever automotive oil that was on sale, then switched to IH #1 Low Ash 30 weight oil in them. He ran his CC's ONLY in summer. The Kohler's that burned a little oil stopped burning oil, smoking on start-up stopped. Sticking exh valves freed up. So it's not a bad choice for CC's run in summer only.
Probably the most important thing about engine oil is to change it when recommended. Either keep track of hours run with the hour meter on the tractor, or the way I like better, is to keep track of gallons of gas used. Change the oil after every 30-40 gallons of gas used. That takes into account the hard pulling high gas consumption running with higher engine temps, and the light load putt-putting around the yard we all do from time-to-time with low gas usage and relatively cooler engine temps that isn't as hard on the oil.
lpalma
Well-known member
Nice write up on oil Dennis...
Terry a creeper out of a 126 should have a threaded extension on both the handle and the breather. Sounds like from your description you have one from a wide frame and someone bent/modified the handle to fit a 126.
Terry a creeper out of a 126 should have a threaded extension on both the handle and the breather. Sounds like from your description you have one from a wide frame and someone bent/modified the handle to fit a 126.
tkhoffman
Well-known member
Dennis.. Gee I wonder if I should be buying that Rotella for my cars. All engine are pre Roller Rocker style.
I bet the Zinc would make them happier
I bet the Zinc would make them happier
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Tony, unless your cars are diesels, I wouldn't put Rotella oil in it.
Dennis, what do you run in the winter in your Kohlers? If your running 15w-40 (way thinker than recommend for summer) are you switching to at least 10w-30 for winter?
Dennis, what do you run in the winter in your Kohlers? If your running 15w-40 (way thinker than recommend for summer) are you switching to at least 10w-30 for winter?
TONY - What's funny about my situation... The PSD, the ONLY diesel I use Rotella in has roller lifters AND roller rockers, and really doesn't need the ZDDP.
MANY high perf. car boards have had oil topics the last few years. I'd say half the hot cars at drag strips across the US use Rotella.
Like I said, Mobil Delvac is good oil too, I'm sure they have a Hot Line for technical questions like the number I've called Shell on a couple times about Rotella. They should be able to tell a person how much ZDDP Delvac has.
EVERY company I've ever worked for, except IH, has used and recommended Mobil grease & oil in their new machines as shipped from the factory.
I had a "Situation" 25 yrs ago with my brand new '88 Mustang GT 5.0L HO. It had 3500-4000 miles on it when we went to the Mich. Int'l Race track for the spring NASCAR race. The car burned a bit more oil than I thought, was about 1/2 quart low when we left for home. Across western MI, the little bit of Indiana, and around Chicgo I checked EVERY truck stop & gas station for a quart of Valvoline 10W-40. Could have bought several semi-truck loads of Pennzoil 10W-40 but not a single quart of Valvoline to be had anywhere. I put two quarts in the back from my case at home that same night around 2 AM when we got home after the race. Ready for the next road trip! I've based my oil of choice on what I can find almost anywhere since that time. 15W-40 Rotella is available at most grocery stores, and is great oil, so that's what I run. Chevron & Mobil are not so widely available, but probably more so than Valvoline both now and back in 1988!
The BTO farmer I worked for back in the late 1960's & early '70's used ONE oil in all his farm equipment, cars, pickups and large farm trucks, same with all the trucking co's I've driven for.
There was a period of time back in the late 1990's and early 2000's I thought about buying Rotella in 30 gal drums. I was doing a 14 quart oil change in my truck about every 4-5 weeks, plus all my Cubbies, etc. Cases of six gallon jugs just worked better for recycling for me. Made it easier to cycle in the case of 10W-30 Rotella I used in my pickup in winter for 2-3 oil changes too.
MANY high perf. car boards have had oil topics the last few years. I'd say half the hot cars at drag strips across the US use Rotella.
Like I said, Mobil Delvac is good oil too, I'm sure they have a Hot Line for technical questions like the number I've called Shell on a couple times about Rotella. They should be able to tell a person how much ZDDP Delvac has.
EVERY company I've ever worked for, except IH, has used and recommended Mobil grease & oil in their new machines as shipped from the factory.
I had a "Situation" 25 yrs ago with my brand new '88 Mustang GT 5.0L HO. It had 3500-4000 miles on it when we went to the Mich. Int'l Race track for the spring NASCAR race. The car burned a bit more oil than I thought, was about 1/2 quart low when we left for home. Across western MI, the little bit of Indiana, and around Chicgo I checked EVERY truck stop & gas station for a quart of Valvoline 10W-40. Could have bought several semi-truck loads of Pennzoil 10W-40 but not a single quart of Valvoline to be had anywhere. I put two quarts in the back from my case at home that same night around 2 AM when we got home after the race. Ready for the next road trip! I've based my oil of choice on what I can find almost anywhere since that time. 15W-40 Rotella is available at most grocery stores, and is great oil, so that's what I run. Chevron & Mobil are not so widely available, but probably more so than Valvoline both now and back in 1988!
The BTO farmer I worked for back in the late 1960's & early '70's used ONE oil in all his farm equipment, cars, pickups and large farm trucks, same with all the trucking co's I've driven for.
There was a period of time back in the late 1990's and early 2000's I thought about buying Rotella in 30 gal drums. I was doing a 14 quart oil change in my truck about every 4-5 weeks, plus all my Cubbies, etc. Cases of six gallon jugs just worked better for recycling for me. Made it easier to cycle in the case of 10W-30 Rotella I used in my pickup in winter for 2-3 oil changes too.
NIC - I don't run my Cubbies in winter. At ALL. And haven't for the last 15+ yrs. If I did have to start one of them I'd run my torpedo heater in the garage or shop till they were warmed up.
My #1 snow mover does have 15W-40 Rotella in it, but sleeps in the shop, never gets below 30-35 degrees in there, even the last couple days when it's been below zero.
The K321 has Rotella 5W-40 synthetic in it, the Onan in the 982 has 15W-40 in it. They both get started and idled for 10 minutes before going under load in the summer when I run them, then get idled 10-15 minutes to cool them down before shut-down.
The K241 in the 70 SON is running also has 15W-40 Rotella in it. The 200W magnetic heater gets stuck to the oil pan for 3-4 hours before it gets started in winter. And seldom ever runs faster than half throttle when pushing snow with the blade.
If you watch those videos again, you'll see the 15W-40 oil flowed better at -35C than the straight 30W did.
Little tid-bit of info I read in Cycle Magazine, something written by Gordon Jennings, 40 yrs ago that OIL is the ONLY thing in an engine that is NOT a Compromise. If oil flow is reduced due to oil thickening because of cold temps, once it's finally IN the bearing, it heats up and lubes better than a lighter oil that flows into the bearing faster, but as the video showed, your dry start-up lasts longer, and sometimes a LOT longer.
If I had an engine that had to run every day summer or winter, like a loader tractor to feed hungry cattle, and it was kept in a cold drafty barn, I'd probably use 5W-20 or 5W-30 synthetic in it in winter until the temps got up to 30-35 degrees regularly. But for the situation I have now, I plug the block heater in on the #1 snow mover for a half hour, start the tractor and let it idle for 5 minutes, then start lightly pushing snow. With the grill 100% blocked off it's up to normal operating temp in 15 minutes.
My #1 snow mover does have 15W-40 Rotella in it, but sleeps in the shop, never gets below 30-35 degrees in there, even the last couple days when it's been below zero.
The K321 has Rotella 5W-40 synthetic in it, the Onan in the 982 has 15W-40 in it. They both get started and idled for 10 minutes before going under load in the summer when I run them, then get idled 10-15 minutes to cool them down before shut-down.
The K241 in the 70 SON is running also has 15W-40 Rotella in it. The 200W magnetic heater gets stuck to the oil pan for 3-4 hours before it gets started in winter. And seldom ever runs faster than half throttle when pushing snow with the blade.
If you watch those videos again, you'll see the 15W-40 oil flowed better at -35C than the straight 30W did.
Little tid-bit of info I read in Cycle Magazine, something written by Gordon Jennings, 40 yrs ago that OIL is the ONLY thing in an engine that is NOT a Compromise. If oil flow is reduced due to oil thickening because of cold temps, once it's finally IN the bearing, it heats up and lubes better than a lighter oil that flows into the bearing faster, but as the video showed, your dry start-up lasts longer, and sometimes a LOT longer.
If I had an engine that had to run every day summer or winter, like a loader tractor to feed hungry cattle, and it was kept in a cold drafty barn, I'd probably use 5W-20 or 5W-30 synthetic in it in winter until the temps got up to 30-35 degrees regularly. But for the situation I have now, I plug the block heater in on the #1 snow mover for a half hour, start the tractor and let it idle for 5 minutes, then start lightly pushing snow. With the grill 100% blocked off it's up to normal operating temp in 15 minutes.
Snake oil and DuraGard 15-40 year round in all my Cubs, or I should say used to run, LOL
3 169's gone
1 left
Total Cubs lost 14
1 left
Total Cubs lost 14
Charlie ( Digger)
We got oil up here we want to sell to you all. Even I have got that ; You are colder than me weather wise lol. You loss more Cubs than I own . what a sin , Sorry I don`t think it will take ( you ) long to find more .Keep the faith Brother it will pass.
We got oil up here we want to sell to you all. Even I have got that ; You are colder than me weather wise lol. You loss more Cubs than I own . what a sin , Sorry I don`t think it will take ( you ) long to find more .Keep the faith Brother it will pass.
My days of collecting tractors and other stuff are over.
I can't and won't take a chance on losing stuff again!
I can't and won't take a chance on losing stuff again!
I am watching this oil discussion with interest. I am content to let my 1250 Nightmare hibernate in the winter and only run it when temperatures are well above freezing. Currently, my oil of choice is CaseIH Akcela low ash SAE 30.
Perhaps I need to re-adjust my thinking to a synthetic or synthetic blend oil to get the most life out of my K-301 as I can. I have always believed that making a change from regular oil to synthetic would run the risk of damage to a well conditioned engine. I am not sure if there is any truth to this belief. Currently, the K-301 uses very little oil, doesn't smoke on start-up and runs amazingly well for its age.
(I also need to make an oil decision for a new-to-me off topic engine.)
Any thoughts?
Perhaps I need to re-adjust my thinking to a synthetic or synthetic blend oil to get the most life out of my K-301 as I can. I have always believed that making a change from regular oil to synthetic would run the risk of damage to a well conditioned engine. I am not sure if there is any truth to this belief. Currently, the K-301 uses very little oil, doesn't smoke on start-up and runs amazingly well for its age.
(I also need to make an oil decision for a new-to-me off topic engine.)
Any thoughts?
J
jclazar
Guest
Brian, #1. I believe your 1250 Nightmare has been doing just fine, after how many proven years based on manufacture's oil recommendations. IH approved engine oil is no slouch. Viscosity oil is a premium grade engine oil, and you are using a good engine oil. I can understand if the oil cannot be found locally in a person's area, and other reasons why some other oil is personally preferred. LOW ASH oil has a lower content of sulfated ASH than other engine oil. The lower sulfated ash content of LOW ASH oil reduces valve torching and deposit buildup on the valves,... and over all, does a good job of keeping the engine clean. My tractor engine is quite clean, barely smokes on start up since I made sure what oil is being used in it. Keep in mind, that a gas engine's combustion chamber produces a lower operating temperature than that of a diesel engine, and therefor does not clean itself as well as the hotter operating diesel engine. That's why you don't ever want to run a higher sulfate ash content like that of a diesel specified engine oil,... in a gas and LPG engine. These oils and lubricants were made exclusively for IH, by IH. What I know and understand comes right from the "book", and my own experience thus far. Keep in mind, small, piston operated aircraft still rely on conventional, non-synthetic engine oil today.
Please note that I'm in no-way trying not to promote the use of a quality synthetic. Like you, I'm on the fence as well, enjoying the topic about crankcase engine lubricants. I'm also very interested in the Mobil full synthetic, and wish to learn more, to take my tractor to another higher level. Myself, I'm particularly interested in the operating temperatures achieved, and the cleaning properties of the Mobil full synthetic. I have a Iron Line Kohler 241 ready to go, and was wondering if I should start out NEW with the full synthetic, or not.
#2. Your tractor was made to be used in the winter, if you have a need for it. Engine oil is important to be aware of, given the climate in which you are working. For the first time in 20 years, 3 days ago, the climate mimicked that of the Artic, with temperatures near 20 below, and a raging wind chill of -45. So, I highly doubt anyone would be seeking seat time during extreme cold weather conditions such as.
I really enjoyed those videos Dennis shared. I believe our splash-lube engine has a slight advantage in the colder weather when it comes to starting, verses the pressure lube engine.
Please note that I'm in no-way trying not to promote the use of a quality synthetic. Like you, I'm on the fence as well, enjoying the topic about crankcase engine lubricants. I'm also very interested in the Mobil full synthetic, and wish to learn more, to take my tractor to another higher level. Myself, I'm particularly interested in the operating temperatures achieved, and the cleaning properties of the Mobil full synthetic. I have a Iron Line Kohler 241 ready to go, and was wondering if I should start out NEW with the full synthetic, or not.
#2. Your tractor was made to be used in the winter, if you have a need for it. Engine oil is important to be aware of, given the climate in which you are working. For the first time in 20 years, 3 days ago, the climate mimicked that of the Artic, with temperatures near 20 below, and a raging wind chill of -45. So, I highly doubt anyone would be seeking seat time during extreme cold weather conditions such as.
I really enjoyed those videos Dennis shared. I believe our splash-lube engine has a slight advantage in the colder weather when it comes to starting, verses the pressure lube engine.
tkhoffman
Well-known member
Dennis:
"The BTO farmer I worked for back in the late 1960's & early '70's used ONE oil in all his farm equipment, cars, pickups and large farm trucks, same with all the trucking co's I've driven for"
Although the recent post caused me to think about it..I do what your Farmer guy did.. Castrol GTX 10-40 in cars, motorcycles,mowers. I have over 300K miles on my several cars, I have over 80K miles on the motorcycle, My 36" cut walk-behind mower is 20+ years old. Never had to do Engine work on any of these. It may not be the correct thing to do but I'm happy with the years and mileage I am getting with the same old DINO oil.
New Topic.. Is the lowest bolt on the rear Diff Case also a drain plug? At a quick look I didn't think I saw a drain plug. I'm taking the backplate off anyway, just hoping it wasn't one of those 'loosen all hardware and tap case' until oil gushes from wherever it wants to.
"The BTO farmer I worked for back in the late 1960's & early '70's used ONE oil in all his farm equipment, cars, pickups and large farm trucks, same with all the trucking co's I've driven for"
Although the recent post caused me to think about it..I do what your Farmer guy did.. Castrol GTX 10-40 in cars, motorcycles,mowers. I have over 300K miles on my several cars, I have over 80K miles on the motorcycle, My 36" cut walk-behind mower is 20+ years old. Never had to do Engine work on any of these. It may not be the correct thing to do but I'm happy with the years and mileage I am getting with the same old DINO oil.
New Topic.. Is the lowest bolt on the rear Diff Case also a drain plug? At a quick look I didn't think I saw a drain plug. I'm taking the backplate off anyway, just hoping it wasn't one of those 'loosen all hardware and tap case' until oil gushes from wherever it wants to.
TONY - The BTO I worked for had 2-3 BIG tractors, later around five as he bought up more ground, plus a big for the time self-propelled combine, 4-5 smaller tractors, two pickups, car, several old farm trucks, self-propelled hay windrower. He used a LOT of oil in a year's time. And what he used was all driven by what the new big tractors required.
On GD CC's, there is an oil drain plug on the bottom front side of the rearend, which is where the hydro picks up oil for the pump & motor. You can loosen and remove the fitting on the steel tube but most people just loosen all the bolts on the rear cover and set a BIG catch pan under the rear cover and slightly pry the cover away from the sealing surface.
Removing the cover lets you admire the level of craftsmanship IH put into our little tractors. And you can clean out any dirt or debris, and make sure everything is 100% in tip-top shape.
Hy-Tran if left to run WAY too long will form globs of gelatin-like stuff, which most people try to clean out of their tractors. Hy-Tran absorbs water from condensation, pressure washing, etc. think up to 1 or 2% by volume, and it forms those globs when it absorbs more than that.
You guys with the small CC's have it easy. Takes me over an hour with power tools just to get to the rear cover on my 982 since it has the rear 2000 RPM PTO and Cat. 0 3-pt.
Castrol is good oil, it's what Volvo recommended for my '06 S40 turbo inter-cooled engine but the "Good Stuff" they recommend is hard to find in the US, so I use Mobil 1. Good friend fro college and his Dad both had Volvo's back in the 1970's and switched them both to Mobil 1 and wiped the lobes off the camshafts, but Volvo and Mobil both fixed that problem with roller cam followers & lifters in their OHC engines. My S40 has 128K miles and still runs like new.
On GD CC's, there is an oil drain plug on the bottom front side of the rearend, which is where the hydro picks up oil for the pump & motor. You can loosen and remove the fitting on the steel tube but most people just loosen all the bolts on the rear cover and set a BIG catch pan under the rear cover and slightly pry the cover away from the sealing surface.
Removing the cover lets you admire the level of craftsmanship IH put into our little tractors. And you can clean out any dirt or debris, and make sure everything is 100% in tip-top shape.
Hy-Tran if left to run WAY too long will form globs of gelatin-like stuff, which most people try to clean out of their tractors. Hy-Tran absorbs water from condensation, pressure washing, etc. think up to 1 or 2% by volume, and it forms those globs when it absorbs more than that.
You guys with the small CC's have it easy. Takes me over an hour with power tools just to get to the rear cover on my 982 since it has the rear 2000 RPM PTO and Cat. 0 3-pt.
Castrol is good oil, it's what Volvo recommended for my '06 S40 turbo inter-cooled engine but the "Good Stuff" they recommend is hard to find in the US, so I use Mobil 1. Good friend fro college and his Dad both had Volvo's back in the 1970's and switched them both to Mobil 1 and wiped the lobes off the camshafts, but Volvo and Mobil both fixed that problem with roller cam followers & lifters in their OHC engines. My S40 has 128K miles and still runs like new.
JOHN L. - I disagree with you about a splash-lubed engine having an advantage when starting in cold weather. The oiling hole in the rod cap on a Kohler is about 1/8" in diameter. I could measure an old rod out in the shop but it's still minus 16 degrees here according to the local weather. That thick oil has to find it's way UP the oil flinging finger and through that hole to get into the rod bearing. No help from drilled oil passages like on a pressure lubed engine.
The thin profile of the oil pickup finger may not impose the drag of a gear or gearotor pump and allow the engine to start more easily, but how long will it be before any oil finds it's way into the bearing? As the end of the second video showed, at cold temps there would be NO flying oil in the crankcase of a Kohler engine for quite some time if too high a viscosity oil was used.
About 48 yrs ago the guy my Dad drove livestock trucks for bought his first diesel powered semi-tractor, a '64 IH Emeryville w/220 HP Cummins engine. Back then multi-vis. oils were NOT recommended. Most people ran 30W year-round. During a cold spell like we've had this week the guy tried to start his Emeryville. He had a heated shop he cold have pushed the tractor into but for some reason tried to pull start it. Pulled it almost ten miles without getting it started. When it finally warmed up, he did get the engine started but quickly noticed it had NO oil pressure. He'd twisted the oil pump drive shaft off while trying to pump that thick 30W oil, scored the pistons, liners, main & rod bearings. VERY costly rebuild!
Most of us in the mid-west don't have the brutal cold like Charlie routinely has. We probably all had too heavy of oil in our engines. Well, except for my Wife... Her SUV is supposed to run 5W-20 year-round. And even IT groaned Monday & Tuesday morning.
The thin profile of the oil pickup finger may not impose the drag of a gear or gearotor pump and allow the engine to start more easily, but how long will it be before any oil finds it's way into the bearing? As the end of the second video showed, at cold temps there would be NO flying oil in the crankcase of a Kohler engine for quite some time if too high a viscosity oil was used.
About 48 yrs ago the guy my Dad drove livestock trucks for bought his first diesel powered semi-tractor, a '64 IH Emeryville w/220 HP Cummins engine. Back then multi-vis. oils were NOT recommended. Most people ran 30W year-round. During a cold spell like we've had this week the guy tried to start his Emeryville. He had a heated shop he cold have pushed the tractor into but for some reason tried to pull start it. Pulled it almost ten miles without getting it started. When it finally warmed up, he did get the engine started but quickly noticed it had NO oil pressure. He'd twisted the oil pump drive shaft off while trying to pump that thick 30W oil, scored the pistons, liners, main & rod bearings. VERY costly rebuild!
Most of us in the mid-west don't have the brutal cold like Charlie routinely has. We probably all had too heavy of oil in our engines. Well, except for my Wife... Her SUV is supposed to run 5W-20 year-round. And even IT groaned Monday & Tuesday morning.
