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Archive through January 08, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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frank snerd

since I have a 129 I can help with that. You have to remove the front of the tractor with the four bolts under the frame. The pto bar that holds the pto button is set into the frame and the grill housing keeps it there. Hope this helps
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DON T.
Thought that "61" O was headed my way?? You know how bad I'm wanting one! Come on be a sport.
I can get it back together + it will be easier to ship!
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Frank,
Remove the front housing (the part that holds the grille )off the tractor. The hood and upper grille are also attached to it. You can then remove the rockshaft assembly.
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Frank S.-

This shaft has a sleeve bushing that has to be removed before the shaft can be taken out. It is about 1 1/2" long. It's located on the left side and is locked in with the cotter pin. This is done a lot easier with the grill removed. PB can help as well.
 
Wayne Shytle
You are correct on that sleeve and cotter pin, I also use a flat washer to get the PTO button aligned on some Cubs here. I also find most times it easier to remove the hood and grill housing and have it out of the way.

Rodney Smith
LOL my 61 Original will get painted this year and will stay here for a few years yet.Good luck on your search for a 61 .
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Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)

You do great work! Three houses away there is a set of forks for a bigger tractor.Price was $40.00 two weeks ago, I might have go over with a tape and see just how much to big it is.I thought of making bins to pile my wood into to dry and and move to the house.You must be running some weight on that tractor with the forks so far ahead. What do you use?
 
Donald Tanner -
I dont see how that would work. maybe I did not explain the problem clearly enough.
here is a video of the part diagram. this is the part i am trying to remove. also, it is on the 128. I have both the 128 and 129. sometimes i get confused.
part number 12.
circled in red.
I believe you are talking about the body, the part the hood bolts to. if i remove that, it looks like it will still hit the frame in front.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyxOnWp_U-Q
 
Hello everyone !!
My 147 restaration is moving along slow but sure lots of painting going on .... I was cleaning my motor block to paint & ran up on these numbers .


K321 - Top A - Right side 17CO - on bottom

what dose the A / 17CO stand for ??
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everyone, thanks for the advice. but i still dont see how removing the sleeve, or the front will help.
but, i will try it.
the sleeve looks flush with the end of the shaft. so i wont gain anything.
it looks like if i remove the front, the front frame will still be in the way.

this comes off in one piece, correct? i cant remove the vertical bars for the wear button or linkage, can i?
 
DON T.
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If you don't mind, what is serial # of your "61" O? You will post pics when it's done won't you?
Thanks,
ROD
 
frank snerd
If you follow what we ask you to do you will see that you can then slide the part you have circled in red to the side and then lift the other side above the frame to remove it. Give it a shot.
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Rodney Smith

Unless I read the page wrong 22814 was built in December 1961 . I now have everything to put on it like rear light and head lights and spindle covers for the mower deck, fenders and hood bird.If it had original paint I would leave it like it is ,but the PO used spray can refurb and that is peeling. I will post it when completed for sure,.
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Steve-
After looking at the rest of your pics in the CUSTOM/BETTER THAN NEW section, I gotta say "great job" on those forks! I like your use of the "poop tine backing plate" and the mini "headache rack" really gives it an industrial look.
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Don-
For $40 I'd be making those forks mine...
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Donald Tanner -
ok. i will take everyone's advice. thanks everyone.
 
Home of the Plow Special

Art

I think I will go see him in the am and see if he still has them.He has disk set and a harrow and the forks , all for a big tractor. the forks mounting was to remove the draw bar and then the forks attached to the same spot.I know they would need to be cut down to size,but now Steve B has posted something for me look at for reference.
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Don, I know both spellings are correct. I just put that in there in honor of you, not ripping on you.
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Steve B., nice job on the pallet forks!!!
 
Michael Ross,
I was talking about the rod running from the lift arm to the plow. Kraig's also right about the cam stopping the travel.

Hydro Harry,
That 169 numbers are as follows:
Tractor Serial Number: 529194
Engine Serial Number: 6341849/ 13 Fin
Model Number: K341A
Spec Number: 711541A

Hope this helps!
 
Art, Kraig, Don...Thanks!

Not being able to see the forks was bugging me, so I went back out with a 3" hole saw and a cut off wheel on the grinder and made a nice big window in the middel of the plate, then moved the lift bar down lower....did the trick nicely!!!!!!...now I don't have to accidentally flip over a saw horse again (10 min. after I finished the forks I realized I needed to SEE
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them....after I cleaned up my toppled over mess
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)

Don,

Weight:

2 pr JD wheel weights = 200#
5ea. 42# suitcase weights on rear = 210#
Washer fluid in 26x12x12 tires = 75#ea. = 150#
My 250# fat butt
Total "fightin' weight" = 560# weights & me = 810#
 
Frank Currier
Thanks for the info. Will try CCS for the kit. I had already found the link you posted, but thank you anyway.

Hydro Harry
Haven't removed tin to count fins on my K341AQS yet,spec#71147a, 1976. Its on a BLUE tractor anyway.
Later guys. Keep up the entertaining banter.

Kenny
 

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