Archive through January 05, 2015

[sblunier]

Doug,

Nice work!

Right procedure for the lift rod as well. I like to use 1/2" CRS round bent at right angles with 6" tails welded into a 1/2" black pipe.....MUCH stronger and less likely to bend when bucking up piles of snow.

 

[jharder]

I think Steve and I broke this thing? where is everyone?

 

[memorgan]

Looks good Dave ...was out in my cab last nite "throwin...'It was great snow...like powder...pitched it a long ways!!!
Had a glitch when i started ..tractor would only move when i had my foot on the clutch...come to find out ...the 1/4 bolt in the drive coupler fell out. foot on the clutch put enough pressure on things to make it move...then it quit moving all together..
Last place i used my tractor was plow day.
Mr, Plow ...take a look out in the field and see if u can find that bolt

 

[kide]

Steve - I thought the stock lift rod was a safety feature especially designed for us that used "BRS" on those big drifts... (if the link doesn't bow, your stomach absorbs the full force when forward motion ceases)...

 

[sblunier]

If BRS is employed correctly, you don't stop until you are THROUGH the drift!!!!

 

[jbaker]

My Finest BRS moment, and yes it did go Through it

 

[dlbarnett]

David S. looking nice! We don't get much snow up here but that would keep the rain off me.

Jim H. sound like you've got a runner there, nice score

Steve B. my idea was something like that. I thought I had some 3/4in. round bar I was going to use, but turns out I must of used it all up. I've got some 1in tube, but that sees way over kill. But then it is already paid for.

How do you make the blade float? I'm assuming when using the BRS method the blade is in the locked position. My blade only came with one spring so I just plan on keeping it locked and not using BRS.

The blade all mounted and almost ready

 

[sblunier]

Doug,

Float is in the tractor lift linkage.

NEVER lock the blade when moving snow, ESPECIALLY when using BRS!!! ouch!!!!

I may have a pair of springs lying around, email me....

 

[dlbarnett]

So how do you lock it out of float?

 

[sblunier]

Depends on Cub Cadet model...

 

[dlbarnett]

it a 123. that so easy to type it just flows off the keyboard 123 123 123.

 

[jharder]

I got to use the 982 today cleaning my brothers drive. The longer I ran it the better it ran. By the Time I was almost done it was running like a well oiled machine. Although it stopped charging (bad voltage regulator) And I had to work on the blade some I think this one is here to stay. Jim

 

[sblunier]

Wire bail on top of lift lever puts lift in float on a 123.

 

[fcurrier]

Cub Cadet deck float bail (release rod lock):

 

[nbextermueller]

If I read Doug's question correctly, he asked "how to lock OUT float". As in make it not float.

The quick answer is a manual lift is already "fixed" with no float unless you use the clip shown or float pin on a WF.

Thing is, you WANT float and trip springs. 2 years I was pushing snow with the IH 782 and forgot to unlock the trip lock. I caught the crack in the drive at the curb and came to a complete stop from only 1/2 BRS. (About 4mph) I nearly went over the hood, literally blew the grill out of the nose, knocked out headlight and really tweaked the plow subframe.

So, unlock that blade and email that member about a second spring.

 

[sblunier]

I tripped the 54" Haban blade on my 2072/982 Special at about 4 mph this morning while moving snow on the neighbors drive.....it lays flat on it's face and comes back up with a bang, but you don't eat the hood or steering wheel.........a definite plus!!!!

Had 4-5" of light fluffy stuff to move this AM....that is now starting to blow....with the temps going deep into the basement (for around here at least) at -15 F tomorrow, it's looking like a less than fun Wednesday!!!!

 

[hydroharry]

Doug B - trying to catch up here. I think you were really asking how do you set the blade in float. The easy answer is you do it the same way you float the mowing deck. Use the wire bail to hold down the button on the lift arm, and use the lift arm stop (located close to the bottom right side of the dash pedestal) to set the lowest drop point of the blade or deck, which ever you're using.

By the way, the wire bail (like Frank picture) went NLA from Cub Cadet and I saw people asking $20 each for them. Maybe Charlie has them now, or even repo's

 

[dlbarnett]

Steve thanks for the spring. So I need the little wire thingy to hold the button down to make it float. Don't lock the blade, use the trip. My ot tractor that the 123 replaced didn't have trip so I figured I would just lock this one.

 

[hydroharry]

Doug B - I sure hope you're not getting confused here.

The float feature is part of the tractor lift system and allows the level of the blade to float up and down over uneven surfaces (just like you're supposed to do with the mowing deck).

The trip feature is specific to the blade. There is a little spring loaded locking mechanism on the back side of the blade that allows you to lock the blade just like a bull dozer. Locking stops the blade from tripping its 2 large springs. Locking the trip feature is not recommended in snow conditions, and can be dangerous as others have already mentioned. Not only can it result in damage to the blade and/or tractor, but it can be very harmful to the operator, especially the upper torso and face.

Just as Steve B describes, when the blade trips and those springs snap that blade back into position you will definitely know from the extreme BANG!

 

[nbextermueller]

Doug,

I always drove plain Jane work trucks and had manual everything tractors. I didn't think I needed all those "upgrades" like hydro lift, power steering, twin cylinders, tripable and power angle blades... Until I got them. Now I can't go back.

Even I feel left out when I have to drive my Saturn without Navigation and a touch screen. Total First world problem, I know... But after you get your 123 "fully loaded" you'll wonder how you ever used it without those things.