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Archive through January 04, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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I've got a question about my wideframe snow blade subframe. How far apart should the rear slotted ends be? Mine are really bent and I would like to straighten them and maybe brace them a little. I'm also going to extend the length of the top leg of the slot to make mounting easier.

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Eugene it should be 7-1/2" or less it goes inside the arms on the rockershaft.Travis has some new ones for WF ,I think
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I’ve been thinking about building a Cat 0 3-point hitch for one of my Cubs so I could use a Gannon I have that requires the Cat 0 3-point hitch. Since I have two cubs that have the IH 3-point hitch and several implements that require the sleeve hitch adaptor I didn’t want to lose that ability.

I decided to leave the IH 3-point assembly intact to use for the lift mechanism and build an adaptor that would turn it into a Cat 0 3-point configuration.

I’m sure others have done this but thought I would post the procedure I used.

My requirements were:
1. Do minimal modification to the Cub Cadet chassis.
2. Build a rugged Cat 0 3-point hitch adaptor that was as close to standard configuration as possible.
3. To be able to install and remove the adaptor quickly without modifying the IH 3 point hitch assembly.
4. End result to be workable, adjustable, and not look like an abortion.

This was the end result.

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The only modification to the Cub chassis was a 3/8 hole drilled in the frame on the right side that is the same dimensions from bottom and back as the factory one on the left side of the frame.

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All metal frame was ¼ steel with double plates welded where the lower lift arm pins mounted.

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Lower mount is two quick connect pins and two bolts that bolt the adaptor to the IH 3-point hitch plate.

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Upper mount is two 3/8 bolts in the holes in the Cub frame.

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Adjustable lift arms mount to a frame that connects to the standard IH 3-point hitch pin. The frame has three positions that the brackets from the lift pin can connect to. The forward position gives a lift of 10 inches at the rear drawbar. The middle position gives a lift of 7 inches at the rear drawbar position. The back hole gives a lift of 5 inches at the rear drawbar. The forward lift position is the fastest and works well when you are working in a ditch or when you need to lift the gannon extra high. The rear position is where I usually run it for normal work with the gannon as it is usually adequate lift and drop, and it operates slower so you can do a better job leveling.

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To remove the adaptor you remove the pin through the IH hitch pin, remove the two upper bolts connected to the Cub frame, remove the two lower bolts in the IH hitch plate, drop the adaptor down on the ground and remove the two quick disconnect pins in the IH hitch plate. Adaptor shown here with the Lower lift arms also removed.

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Richard C:
You do know you could sell those, don't you? To me, for example! NICE JOB! I like the way you determined your design parameters before beginning the project. It looks like you adhered to them and produced a nice bolt-on unit.

Thanks for the pics and update.
Keith
 
RICHARD - I have to agree too, NICE JOB on the Cat. O. It gets a
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BRYAN - "Great State of CHICAGO"
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Denny -

SB pointed out to me how downstaters feel about Chicago. About the same as most of WI feels about Milwaukee or Madison it seems...
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Richard C. -

Way cool. I'd love to hear how it performs with a 3-point plow - keep us posted...

Charlie -

Glad to hear that. When ya gonna start on the new wing of your house? I know Bob and I are just finishing up our McMansions from all the profits we make here at the forum!
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Wyatt -

I hear ya. Very few spots to challenge the 169 yesterday, although it did do much better once I remembered to tighten the belt...
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Richard C., WOW! Excellent job on that. If you make them I bet they'll sell like hot cakes.

Keith E., nice tires, thanks for the photos.

Lyle, do you have a part like #7 in the first drawing below?
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I need some help deciding on paint colors. Over the holidays I managed to finish a plow I'd been working on to pull behind my Mini-H that's built from a Cub Cadet Model 100. I had planned to paint the molboard and rolling cutter silver (or gray), the wheels white and everything else red. I can find very few pictures to go by and the ones I do find have the molboard and cutter painted blue. Does anyone know what the original colors were suspose to be. I used to own one but it was rust when I got it. Thanks for any info.
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Happy new year to everyone. Hope everyone else gets some snow to play in.
Have had a winter full of early snow. A lot of plowing so far. Finished wearing out a set of tire chains on the original. Need more weight and a heavier clutch spring.
Am afraid this trator is going to the bonepile after this year. Just getting to hammered.
Are the fat tires on a 149 going to dig as well as the skinny little 6 wides on the old cub?
 
Paul- Way cool tractor and plow!

Here is an out of the box #2 Little Genius plow.

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Thanks for the pictures. Those were the type I was finding in my search. But I can't find any "old timers" that remember the blue color, however. I guess they were blue though???
 
Thanks, Bryan. Looks like that's the color scheme I'll go with. Now I just need some warmer weather to paint. Winter hit here in southern Indiana big time.
 
Paul F. -

Here's a "close enough" post from YTmag:<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Posted by Bayou Dave on August 19, 2000 at 07:03:41 from (206.124.207.245):

In Reply to: Little Genius Plow Color posted by Glenn on August 17, 2000 at 17:43:16:

Glenn, this question comes up a lot. Do a search using plow, theres hours of reading. Some advise that Brian gave in December, that I printed off is as follows: frame IH red, wheels cream (Rustoleum cream) plows, coulters, and associated parts blue (ford blue is close) and the hitch itself is black. I plan to use this color scheme if I ever ger around to painting mine. Good luck Dave<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
Here's a shot of my "new" CC-100. It took me a while, but I found the SN stamped right where the FAQs said it should be on a 70/100. But my problem is.... it's a 4 digit S/N (9253). According to the "monthly serial number report" in the FAQ's that's makes it an originial. It's got a K241 engine and what I think is a creeper (it's my first gear drive). Is this one of those parts that's interchangeable between the original and the 100?

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Paul,
You've got to know I want to plow with that before you paint it so pretty its a trailer queen! That is what I've been looking for! Us southern guys have got to stick together!! Great!!!
 
Paul F. Doing some checking into the correct colors for your plow. Ford Blue is not close to the correct color not even the new blue. A Theisen's or Farm and Fleet store has the IH blue in the Van Sickle paint brand. My son has somewhere in the old tractor info that I collected the correct paint number. If you aren't in a hurry when I get there in hopefully the next three weekends I can find it and send it to you. For now here is a coule of sites that will help. Basically they are sites within the site.
http://www.wisconsinhistory.org/libraryarchives/ihc/paint/display.asp?pageurl=037_01.gif

http://www.wisconsinhistory.org/libraryarchives/ihc/

http://www.wisconsinhistory.org/libraryarchives/ihc/questions.asp
 

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