Archive through January 02, 2009

[dwilkinson]

I have recently acquired a 128 my first Cub and have just pulled the front axle in anticipation of tightening up the steering as there is a lot of play in the spindle king pins - called steering knuckle spacer and bolt in the parts look up section. I have already replaced the tie rod ends and will tighten up the steering gear box as well as redo the wheel spindle bearings but can't get past the slop that remains. However, I can't measure or see any significant wear on either the bolts or the spacers (bushings). The bolt holes in the steering knuckles are also pretty sloppy. My question is this the norm and were they made this sloppy or am I missing something? I am considering boring out the bushings and increasing everything to 9/16" dia to eliminate all the slop. Comments or suggestions please.

 

[dfrisk]

SCOTT S - I checked back two pages of posts and I couldn't find Your original post, but I assume Your blade doesn't set level end-to-end on the ground or surface Your cleaning. Yep, Either the blade frame is tweeked/twisted or the piece between the frame and the blade itself is twisted. If it's made from bent metal it IS possible to bend it out of shape. Only Your rear tires control the tilt of the tractor and would effect the blade. If You pivot the blade does it make a difference? You could try setting the raised blade down on a 2X4 or 4X4 and try pushing down further on the end that doesn't go down enough. If You're real close to level just let a pound or two of air out of the rear tire on the side that's high. How far off level is Your blade?
One other thing.....is the side that's high the same side all the time? Tire chains effectively raise one side of the rear of a CC up at a time.

 

[dtanner]

Aternoon guys. Just got home from town and picked up a 54" blade for the 149 and hope to get a D to put it on this spring(may). her is a couple shots of the blade ( $60.00) . a good deal i think. later Don T

I woul say that the blade is in great shape and was hardly used!

 

[sstanton]

Dennis, it's about 1" to an 1 1/2" high on one side and always the same side. Its one of the bent steel ones. I will recheck the rear tires to make sure. It sat that way on the carport floor which is level even with chains off the tires. It sits that way at whatever angle I have the blade at too. It seems worse since I put the hydro lift on, dont know if that makes a difference. Even when the plow is in the up position it still is off kilter.

I will try to bend it back Monday and letcha know how I made out. Is it possible the pin in the bottom of the plow frame is bent? The one that holds the blade to the rest of it? I am going to replace that anyway because it is reall rusted.

 

[dfrisk]

SCOTT - A bent pin could cause the blade to set out of level that much. Rust really wouldn't cause that problem but wear or looseness in a mounting hole or pivot hole sure could! With the narrow mounting width both on the tractor and on the back pivot closest to the mounting frame and on the blade itself it only takes maybe 1/4 inch off to make the whole blade off one inch. I bet the blade is high on the right hand side too isn't it? The side the lift is attached to.

Check to make sure the mounting adapter is tight up & down in the quick attach mounts on both sides of the front of the tractor's frame. Also look everything over closely to make sure nothing is bent on the pin mounts on the blade.

I think all the pins and pivots are 1/2" dia. rounds, strong enough for normal uses but when ramming piles of snow and hitting ice or other hidden immovable objects they will bend.

I doubt the hydro. lift is causing the problem, unless the blade was pushing something hard while the hydro lift was trying to raise the blade.

Look everything over closely for damage before trying to tweek the blade itself back level.

 

[jclazar]

TOM P. - nice job on the 100! may i question the motor color?

 

[sstanton]

Dennis, Its high on the left side, I have some cold rolled steel stock laying around so I'll cut it to length and drill it for the cotter pins. I have the subframe bolted to the frame of the tractor as well in the provided holes. I will replace the bottom pin as well and check the lift arm adaptor. I think that was loose the other day, so I will tighten them up really well. Im thinking a bent midframe(?) is really the problem, but I will check everything you suggested. I'm stuck at work till 8 tonight and tomorrow so I dont think I'll get to it today or tomorrow. Thanks for the help!

 

[dfrisk]

JOHN - I bet it's powder coat, and the rest of the tractor is Cub Cadet 483 Federal Yellow. Powder coat holds up MUCH better to gas, oil, & heat.

 

[mgonitzke]

I finally got this back together again after finishing the brakes (with the exception of that stupid rubber thing for the right one that's back-ordered from CC) and replacing two very, VERY worn O-rings in the hydraulic valve. Hopefully that'll stop the leak. I now have enough O-rings to rebuild about 10 valves...

When I build the next set of these pedals, I'm going to try to move them closer to the operator, as they're a bit awkward for even a tall guy like me to move... However, they do work. Despite all 18" of our snow melting, I was able to find some ice, get one wheel to break loose, and then stop it with the brake and continue moving forward. These should help a lot to avoid getting stuck on icy spots and digging holes.

 

[wmiller]

Scott S Measure the tractor on a flat level floor. My 126 which has the original rear tires does not sit level unless I put 2-3# more air in the rt rear tire,nothing is bent just a variation in the two rear tires. The variation is about as much as you describe.
Bruce C. When I got my 147 it had a manual lever and the electric lift was in a box. When I priced the parts to fix the electric lift I found out why and I did't fix the electric lift either. If you have the spring assist installed the manual lift works pretty well with the snow thrower.