Archive through February 28, 2012

[sblunier]

Thrower Pulley:

Heavy steel "make a pulley" parts with weld in centers are fine for this application....just not the cheap stamped ones.....as Denny says...

 

[dkirk]

Regarding the question on using 4-bolt trailer hubs on 1 inch diameter front axles, this was a modification I did to my 1250 back in 2001. The stock wheel bearings would get sloppy in about 2 seasons of use with a QA-42A snow thrower on the front end. The trailer hubs featured large tapered roller bearings and I liked the idea (and look)of bolt-on wheels. The Cub Cadet front axles are too short for the bearing spacing in the hubs, necessitating extending the axle length, or relocating the bearings closer together in the hubs. I chose the latter method and here are the dimensions for the modification.

After making this mod, I've never had to touch or adjust the front wheel bearings...absolutely no slop has developed in 11 years of use.

 

[wcompton]

Dave- thanks for that, its the same hub mod I used with the "super steer" axle on my 169. I also used the long set screw as a stud with a hardened washer to retain the assembly in lieu of the castle nut. It works extraordinarily well and would convert back to stock form with little work.

 

[dpbauer]

Jeff B-

A would love a pair of forceps 24 inches long with the lock at the handles. But I will take whatever you may have! Send me a photo to my email please

Thank you

Dan B
I have many different sizes of forceps at work (I work at a hospital) what size are you looking for??

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE B. - I've used those weld together pulleys on a couple projects, typically they get expensive, you buy the pulley, then try to find the right hub. Some times they're taper-loc hubs so you need two parts, the hub and tapered bushing.

I used them on the driven pulley on my lawn vac, but it's a low HP application, the little K181 sits at just off idle and never struggles to run the blower.

A taper-loc hub would keep the pulley tight on the blower gearbox shaft better IMO. I had the set screw on the key come loose years ago on my QA-36 and spit the key out and it quickly wore the bore out on the hub of the pulley by the time I could shut the PTO off.

 

[sblunier]

Denny,

The one I used was a solid center w/keyway and 3-1/2" very heavy steel pulley. Came from an ag supply store, not cheap hardware store. About 1/2 price of a CI version from Grainger....

I has stood up to my 18hp Mag in the 782 for about 5 years......I'd say it is heavy enough

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's some photos of David's front hub mod:

 

[dsterley]

thank you guys for all the ideas, were going to try out Davids hub set up that looks good, thanks again guys

 

[bbruch]

Good Morning. I am working on removing the auger gear box from a model 364 two stage snowbower. Can anyone explain to me how to remove the gearbox. I have it loose except it is still attached to the rear transfer case from the tractor in the back of the blower. I cannot figure how to get it loose. By the pictures in the parts catalogue it looks like it is a splined shaft, but it will not come loose. Any suggestions?

 

[digger]

Bill B.
Yea I have a suggestion!
Post your question in the CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment section!

Under Edit
I'll also suggest that you fix the email in your profile so it doesn't bounce back when someone tries to email you!

 

[bbruch]

Thanks Charlie. I thought that this was built by International Harvestor.

 

[digger]

Bill B.
There is a CCC/MTD design as well as an IH design blower. But neither one comes under the pre 1981 date listed above.

Picky bastages ain't we!

 

[bbruch]

Charlie, Goes to show you learn something new every day. Thanks for the help. I'll try listing it under the CCC catagory.

 

[dkirk]

Kraig,

Thanks very much for the archived photos. Here is one more that gives a little better detail.

 

[bcarl]

I've been lurking over the past year. My wife and I have been on the horse competition circuit. Mostly calf sorting and calf team penning. So not much time to work on Cub Cadets. I need to figure out an overheating 1450 and replace a head gasket on the 70. Maybe this year I'll get to them.

Anyway, I came across this auction listed in the Lancaster Farmer (The PA guys know this newspaper) on an upcoming auction with 10 older cub cadets for sale in Howard PA (near State College). There's a nice 782, a Haban sickle mower mounted on a cub cadet, and a Kwik-Way Loader (I believe) on a 1782.


You don't see many auctions like this in PA with this amount of cub cadets for sale, so I thought I would pass along the information to the PA guys. I'm not sure if I'll be at this auction as money is a bit tight right now. But the wife said it was Ok if I go. If I have permission to go, that means I have permission to spend money. Makes perfect sense to me.

 

[twarman]

Question: When you find a Cub wideframe with the single cylinder Kohlers, is there modifications to location when you go from the K-301 to the K-341 or even bigger. I guess I am basically wondering if the 12hp and 14hp blocks are the same in regards to base and output shaft location or is one shaft higher due to a bigger block? My reason for asking is if one sets higher than the other, do you have to make adjustments in the mounting location to get the other to align. Thanks in advance

 

[ljones]

Tim, the 12,14,16 should bolt into any kohler single cyinder powered w/f without any problems. The 14 will fit in a n/ f if you put a 12hp flywheel on it, I think Dennis f did this in his 72.

 

[twarman]

So if you set the 14 in place of the 12, the line up for the gear driven drive shaft should be identical?

 

[dfrisk]

TIM W. - Lucas is correct, as long as you stick with a CC spec block the 10, 12, 14, & 16 HP K-series Kohlers all drop into a WF CC without any changes. Even the K161(7hp) & K181(8hp) drop in and use the same clutch hook-ups, mounting holes, linkages, cables, wires, etc. You'll have to attach the clutch components, 3-pin driver, clutch friction disc, anti-rattle springs, etc to the flywheel end, and the PTO clutch to the shaft end. A Quiet line spec engine won't work as easily because of the block designed to use the Bendiz style starter & elec. PTO clutch.

There was a "K361", 18 HP K-series but it was an over-head valve conversion on the K341 16 HP, you might be able to add the OHV head & ect to an IH spec K341. It'd be an expensive engine! And I can't say as I've EVER seen a piece of equipment with the K361 engine in it. It's pretty rare.

The cyl head on the K341 (16hp) has ten head bolts/studs while the K241/301/321 only have nine and the cooling shroud for the head is different also, and the cyl bore is 3-3/4" while the K321 is only 3-1/2", but the crankshaft, rod, block, cam, governor, etc EXCEPT for the added head bolt/stud is all the same.

And Lucas is also correct, I built up a K321 (14 HP) with the smaller K301 (12 hp) flywheel, back plate & blower housing and dropped it into my NF #72 about 5-6 yrs ago. I didn't want to cut & modify my frame for blower housing clearance like IH did on the #147's. It's more stealthy that way too. Looks exactly like a K301 12 hp. Even the blower housing serial number tags say K301, because I swapped them with the K301 I had in my 129 at the time.

 

[ljones]

Dennis, Power King used the k-361 in some of their models, they had lots of problems with overheating and pulling the valve seats out of the head.

This summer I want to find a k-321 and build a "killer" Kohler for my 122, I already have the k-301 flywheel and bearing plate for the conversion.