jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
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- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Larry, Don, and Harry: What you guys are calling an "extra tab" (or tang) is factory from Kohler (Carter). I'm referring to the instructions and diagrams that appear in the Kohler Service Manual for the Kohler Single Cylinder Engines K91, K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, and K341, publication no. TP-2379 in Chapter 6, page 6.9 for the Kohler (Carter) carburetors (the Walbro carb section starts at the top of the 2nd column of the following page 6.10). The instructions clearly state to set the float both for "LEVEL" and "DROP" as shown in the following excerpts (I captured the images, please refer to the manual itself for the appropriate text).
Setting the Float Level:
Setting the Float Drop:
As I think I related earlier, I was surprised to find a setting for float "drop" since I had never run into it before, and I was alarmed when I didn't find the tab (or tang) on my float by which I could adjust it. That's when I called Charlie. He provided a new part number (I think it was the original P/N with an added "-S" or something), and when it came I noticed that the whole "hinge" by which it hangs in the bowl had been redesigned. If you look closely at the pictures, you can see how the hinge metal has been formed in the opposite direction, and given a non-circular shape. The "drop tang" originates from a different location, although it's difficult to explain (and you can't see in the picture where the old one broke off). The new, improved design is much more robust.
Side view (marked up)
Top view (marked up)
There are those who say that one ought always to replace the float on a carburetor rebuild; and for what the floats cost, it seems like cheap insurance to me. When I button the thing up, I don't want to be going back in there if I can help it.
Setting the Float Level:
Setting the Float Drop:
As I think I related earlier, I was surprised to find a setting for float "drop" since I had never run into it before, and I was alarmed when I didn't find the tab (or tang) on my float by which I could adjust it. That's when I called Charlie. He provided a new part number (I think it was the original P/N with an added "-S" or something), and when it came I noticed that the whole "hinge" by which it hangs in the bowl had been redesigned. If you look closely at the pictures, you can see how the hinge metal has been formed in the opposite direction, and given a non-circular shape. The "drop tang" originates from a different location, although it's difficult to explain (and you can't see in the picture where the old one broke off). The new, improved design is much more robust.
Side view (marked up)
Top view (marked up)
There are those who say that one ought always to replace the float on a carburetor rebuild; and for what the floats cost, it seems like cheap insurance to me. When I button the thing up, I don't want to be going back in there if I can help it.