Archive through February 26, 2010

[fcurrier]

There, Peter, you got to the right forum! Now, just above if you click on the FAQ, then on cubfaq.com and go to #24 it will give you an idea about fixing your throttle shaft. Myron's not up, yet, but I think he's got an answer for ya, too.

 

[pszollosy]

thank you Frank

 

[rbedell]

Tim D:

Here are the two types of Mechanical Voltage Regulators that IH used....

 

[mbounds]

Peter S: The procedure shown in Cub FAQ # 24 is the correct procedure. Finding one of those multi-layered washers is the problem... H-o-w-e-v-e-r!! Ta Da !

Go to your nearest Ace Hardware (or full line hardware store) and purchase (or order) a Hillman bronze thrust bushing. It's Hillman part # 58087-A. It'll do the trick at less than a $ buck!!, Tamp that rascal down into that recess in the carb body and you will have replaced the wear surface just like new.. No more sloppy throttle shaft for another couple of decades...

Myron B

 

[tdaugherty]

The old one i have on the 124 is the 3 wire type regulator. Is it ok to use the new 4 wire type? Thanks.

 

[tdaugherty]

Ok, i see what each of the letters stand for now. However, where would i place i the ground wire? Theres only GEN,LOAD,FIELD, and BAT on the new 4 wire type, or do i even need the grounding wire? Thanks.

 

[dross]

Where did the old ground wire go?

 

[fcurrier]

I'm pretty sure it's grounded through the mounting strap. Believe it or not, it's a question I can't find an answer to in the FAQ. When you look at the back/underneath of it, isn't there a wire from a mounting strap to the V/R case?

 

[rpalmer]

WINTER UPDATE

The 104 has not read what it can't do so it has just gone ahead a done it. Oil: straight 40w Pennzoil. It has started all winter. On one 3 degree day I had to turn the key twice.

Rear tires. Ag bar lug with chains. Nothing has stopped it. Front tires. Ag bar tread mounted correctly. It could not steer better if it were power assisted rack and pinion. Ignition timing. Set without a light or using the timing mark. See above for starting. I've done most of my "plowing" in 3rd gear. The 129 on stand by has just sat ... waiting. I have not needed it.

I hope you all are doing fine. Spring is a coming. But so is more snow.

 

[wshytle]

OK I'm a little more confused about the v/r and labeling of the terminals. The page RBedell posted shows the four terminal v/r in only the very early models, the 70/100. I've found the four terminal in several 1x8s and in all the post by itself opposite the three terminals was always straight to ground. I went and checked to find this terminal was also wired to a resistor(?) and ground.

Would some of the cub brains kick in and straighten this out.

Also, I remember reading when you jump terminals at the v/r (can't remember which two at the moment) you are actually repolarizing the generator, not the v/r itself. The v/r gets physically adjusted inside. Please correct anything I add here that isn't necessarily true.

 

[dfrisk]

MATT G. - re: the rollers/balls wearing/beating themselves into bearing races is called "Brinelling", similar to the hardness testing procedure by the same name.

RICHARD P. - re: frt tires mounted "Correctly", by that do You mean "BACKWARDS" compared to the rear drive tires?

Glad to hear the 104 is starting/running well for You!

 

[mbounds]

Dave R, Frank C: The V/R ground is a small woven "strap" and is attached to a V/R mounting bracket (bypassing the rubber isolator). This type ground must have a separate 14 gauge wire attached to the mounting bracket with the woven strap and run to the neg (-) terminal of the battery to ensure the proper ground for the V/R. The original IH ground path is/will be so heavily corroded the resistance will preclude a good ground path without the added wire.

Myron B

 

[mbounds]

WayneS: You sure need to clean all those terminals so you can't see the rust - shiney bare metal is a must!!!! Geez, talk about resistance!!

Myron B

 

[wshytle]

Myron-

Thanks for the clear explanation of that grounding system. That v/r I posted is a spare that stopped charging (I think). This v/r came from a 128 which is why I asked about the schematic RBedell posted. According to it I should have a three terminal. Correct?

 

[stanner]

Wayne,
I concur... My 149 has the fout terminal type, wired as you state....

 

[dross]

Myron, The way I read that post, your saying to run a dedicated wire to the battery?
Dennis, I thought the same thing. Which correct way? The correct way depends on the preference of the owner.

 

[mbounds]

DaveR: Absolutely! That dedicated wire and an absolute clean direct-to-the-frame (NO other metal plies between!!) battery ground cable will solve more electrical problems that you can imagine....

All: Note that either V/R will work on any model and many have been replaced with whichever version was at hand. After 40+/- years don't be surprised at anything...

Myron B

 

[dross]

Myron, I see your thinking and your right. Last summer I was working with a new regulator and rebuilt S/G, it would charge but it kept increasing the voltage output everytime you started it. It'd start off normal and slowly increase. Had me shaking my head, bad ground. I didn't find it. The heck of it was I did it to myself. I made sure I'd sanded down one side of the attaching strap and mount, when I bolted it to the grill. Through pictures I realized the termials should have faced the other way, when I flipped the stap I didn't sand off the other end. oops.

 

[jbaker]

look what I got

thanks charlie

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE - I always kinda figured the tire manufacturer's recommendation of mounting tires in a non-driven application with the "V" on the top of the tire pointing Backwards as being "Correct".
But then again I don't always follow their advice either, therefore have mounted bias & radial tires on the same axle, used two different sizes & types of tires on a 4WD pickup, over-inflated tires, used non-recommended rim sizes, and have exceeded recommended maximum speeds as well and seldom if ever "rotated" tires on a vehicle, and never follow the recommended "Cross pattern" when I do rotate them.

I've seen several discussions about using lugged tires on the frt axle on L&G tractors, and almost everyone likes them. More than anything I was curious which way Richard had them mounted as I suspect it would make a difference in steering effort and and front wheel skidding during tight turns.

Both the 70 & 72 need new frt shoes, I'd like to stay with 4.00/4.80 X 8's. I can't believe those 42 & 45 yr old tires are starting to dry-rot and fail!