Archive through February 25, 2014

[dfrisk]

RICK - The K301 should have the deep sump pan. Flat bottom pan on the K241, K241 is 2-7/8" stroke, K301 is 3-1/4" stroke. The shallow pan will probably work O-K with the oil finger shortened. I had to do that on my first rebuild of my K241 years ago.

I bet you find paint on the governor too, sticking the weights into place.

Just makes me cringe what some people do to engines. I think you're on the right track, take EVERYTHING apart and make it right!

 

[dschwandt]

Rick, I have a flywheel from a Kohler that used to live in a green thing here. If it's the same you can have it. Bring yours along for comparison.

Give me a call and I'll have the coffee pot on.

Got 2 cubs up and running over the weekend, one a 1000 I had got as a parts tractor and the other a 1450 2 sticker.

 

[rbeem]

Dennis F.
I was wondering about that oil pan. Looks like I'm married to it for now with my lil' dipper.
The whole tractor is pretty much getting a "blue-print" job. The little bit I ran it I had nuts and bolts falling off everywhere, and a crazy hydro.
Someone put a pile of cash into this tractor in new parts and paint. In the end he ended with a non running POS. (Pile OF Shiny).

Did I mention the gas tank had a cup of sandblast sand in it when I started working on it? It was all hooked up with fuel line and ready to rock....err...sand
I'm glad to sort it out, and take advantage of a failed restoration. But a guy does have to scratch his head on some of this stuff.
It will be a nice tractor when sorted out.

 

[dfrisk]

RICK - Been there... done that. SON & I bought a used R/C race car 20 yrs ago, can't even remember what or why. But when we got home with it and started looking it over good, turned out the prior owner used Ketchup in the frt shocks and Mustard in the rear shocks, instead of the expensive silicon based oil that racers use. Think he used Karo corn syrup in the rear diff instead of the really thick silicon based oil that was supposed to be in it.

We took every screw, nut, and bolt apart when we saw that. Last "Used" car we ever bought.

Hopefully the prior owner of that CC didn't "Fix" much more than what you've found already.

SON bought an '89 Mustang GT Convertible last fall as a project. It had "electrical" issues as he found out on the 80 mile drive home. He's finding out it's nothing a complete re-wiring job won't fix. A pair of side-cutters was a DANGEROUS weapon in the prior owner's hands!

 

[bwittman]

Rick,

With all that paint in all those places that I have understood to supposed to be hospital clean, How did this engine run? Or, perhaps I should ask: "Why did this engine run?"

 

[jbaker]

I can not wait for this type of work to begin

tired of this

 

[mhorozko]

Please tell me it hadn't been run with sand in the gas tank!

 

[stanner]

Stan,

that is a casting number you posted, IIRC... the actual S/N should be stamped into the cast iron piece between the rear and front frame or on the rear itself... (i can't remember for sure)

see here about 1/2 way down for example

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/218365.html

 

[rbeem]

Michael / Brian,
He must have had it fired for a bit with the sand because he told me the govenor did not work.
I found the float bowl full of sand and also painted on the inside.....that was pretty gnarly.
The bore looks to have survived somehow.

I'm surprized it ever started. The point gap was HUGE and it had a China coil and condensor that gave me fits when I was trying to get it to fire.

All in all, even with nearly everything done wrong, it still started, but did not work well enough to leave the shed. I'm sure thats why there is no damage.
The RPM's probably ran away on him a few times and with the Hydro like it was he may have had a short but wild ride. He was more than happy to get rid of it.
It got pushed in the corner with stickers still on the tires.

I need to drain the hydro also because even with the release valves depressed, it pushes like a brick. Maybe it has gear oil in it? Have not dared to check it yet. My other hydros don't push easy, but nothing like this one.
Hopefully it is not full of saw dust...lol...gulp.

 

[slewis]

scott thanks for info..

 

[pbell]

Stan, Scott T.
Actually, I believe those numbers were found on the engine data plate and the 506489 number is the engine serial number and the 28542E is the engine spec number. The tractor serial is hand stamped in a vertical line into the right side of the casting between the front frame and the transmission, just in front of and slightly above the square headed oil fill plug. The numbers are about 3/16" high and may be lightly stamped and hard to see/read. Any raised/cast numbers are part numbers.

 

[digger]

There he is!!!!!!!!!

 

[jbaker]

X2

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hi Paul!

 

[elincoln]

After working on the 123 about a week, I had the engine out and cleaned it up. I also removed the pan, head and the valve cover side plate, set the clearence at 18exh and 9int. The ACR spring was not broken and the exhaust valve was raising some on the compression stroke. After putting the engine back in, the starter still would not roll the engine past TDC.
After reading Beems post about old hydro fluid, I pulled the 4 bolts out of the hydro drive flange at the flywheel and the engine spins good. How much hytran does the transmission hold? It could be the original fluid and filter.
I bought another gallon of federal yellow, the dealer had to order 2 at a time, so there is another gallon sitting at the Case IH dealer in Kent, Wa.

 

[slewis]

THANKS ALOT PAUL

 

[hydroharry]

Edward "HotRod" Lincoln - the hydro tranny holds 14pts so you better head back to that Case/IH dealer and get yourself 2 gals of what used to be called "HyTran", then became HyTran Plus, and I think there is even a newer name now. It needs to meet IH Spec B-6, which I guess is now Case Spec MS-1209.
Not sure if the Case dealer will have the correct filter for ya tho. CC Part No. is 923-3014 (or FleetGuard HF 6096). It doesn't have a drain back valve so I would not use an auto filter. Even if it seems to cross reference it most likely will have the drain back valve.
You can find more details in the FAQ and Charlie's FAQ's, about why you should use this stuff, and not use the other stuff. Here are a couple links in case you have trouble finding them.

https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/HytranChange.htm

http://cubfaq.com/lubricants.html

http://cubfaq.com/hytran.html

 

[mhomrighausen]

Hi, Paul B. Great to see that you're posting again!!!

Everyone bundle up today and stay safe and warm.

 

[dfrisk]

EDWARD L. - To add to what Hydro Harry said, the new version of C/IH Hy-Tran is Hy-Tran ULTRA. And there was a new formulation released late last summer, Sept. '13 I think it hit dealer's shelves that is even more universal in usage. Still 100% backwards compatible in all prior uses in IH/CIH equipment and the older CC's.

It's expensive, but is probably the best fluid available for the Sundstrand/Danfoss 15U hydro's used in the older CC's and many other garden tractors, including those green/yellow ones. Hy-tran is unique in that it actually absorbs up to 1% water by volume, meaning it still protects critical high precision parts when contaminated with water condensation.

It's a great hydraulic fluid too, I use it in all my old FARMALL's live hyd. systems. It's also in the transmissions of all my CC's both GD's & hydro. I even used it to cure hard shifting problems in cold weather in an old POS imported pickup I had 35 yrs ago. After the change from whatever was in the trans to Hy-Tran, the transmission became the best part of that miserable truck.

 

[stanner]

Paul,
thx for the correction... Usually the casting # gets looked at as the S/N.... didn't think of the engine s/n....