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Archive through February 25, 2011
- Thread starter dtanner
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
lpalma
Well-known member
yes they do Don...
Somewhere along the line you used those bolts somewhere else? More than likely you have the right ones.I will check mine...
I will take a photo of my 782's rockshaft and post it later.
Somewhere along the line you used those bolts somewhere else? More than likely you have the right ones.I will check mine...
I will take a photo of my 782's rockshaft and post it later.
DONALD - I do!
The bearing plate takes the four cap screws with the recessed face on the head, has the little ridge around the hex. And split lock washers. Might not be a bad idea to put a drop of blue Lock-Tight on them too.
The bearing plate takes the four cap screws with the recessed face on the head, has the little ridge around the hex. And split lock washers. Might not be a bad idea to put a drop of blue Lock-Tight on them too.
Lewis Palma , Denny
Thanks guys . I did measure the holes and sent a tap through ,measured the Crankcase brg plate and came up with a different number than 1/4" depth lol.I think I have the correct bolts installed , but Denny has a great idea and I have blue lock- Tight so I will add that for a safety factor. This is why I will answer a question if I think I know the answer,I don`t mind someone correcting me . Thanks is all I can say .
I think I picked the correct bolts ? But I will add blue L T and be done.
I`am a little slow I guess. the wife destroyed the Cub fund for a bit, front load washer and dryer pair and a suround sound HD dvd hd player ? Cubs and parts is all I need lol.
Thanks guys . I did measure the holes and sent a tap through ,measured the Crankcase brg plate and came up with a different number than 1/4" depth lol.I think I have the correct bolts installed , but Denny has a great idea and I have blue lock- Tight so I will add that for a safety factor. This is why I will answer a question if I think I know the answer,I don`t mind someone correcting me . Thanks is all I can say .
I think I picked the correct bolts ? But I will add blue L T and be done.
wmakowicki
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2010
- Messages
- 62
- displayname
- Wayne Makowicki
Lucas
Getting the timing perfect for valve clearence is not needed. The valves are at full clearence for a bit of crank turn. You should see the gap while you rotate the crank.
Getting the timing perfect for valve clearence is not needed. The valves are at full clearence for a bit of crank turn. You should see the gap while you rotate the crank.
wayne M
I have learn`t they are all a little different to set up to run (puurrrrrr effect ).Even the service manual says adjust after point setting.I even went so far as to set them all different as to task.a litter tight and rich will help them recover rpms faster , depends on the works.
I have learn`t they are all a little different to set up to run (puurrrrrr effect ).Even the service manual says adjust after point setting.I even went so far as to set them all different as to task.a litter tight and rich will help them recover rpms faster , depends on the works.
lpalma
Well-known member
Don,
Those are correct.Did you check your crankshaft end play?
Still working on pictures for the 782,trying to finish up a 125 that was in sad shape electrically.
You would start it by touching the batt.lead that was removed from the S/G to the terminal???
Those are correct.Did you check your crankshaft end play?
Still working on pictures for the 782,trying to finish up a 125 that was in sad shape electrically.
You would start it by touching the batt.lead that was removed from the S/G to the terminal???
DONALD - Lewis is correct, those are the correct four bolts. I've heard of those bolts coming loose and causing an oil leak. I've never had it happen but a drop of L-T will keep them tight.
Tou installed the new oil seal right? Buddy had a KT17 rebuilt, cost him more for the rebuild than I paid for my first 3-4 CC's COMBINED till I got the 982... Guy forgot to install the oil seal on the flywheel end of the crankcase. It piddled oil ALL over.
Lets see, you posted the pic @ 10:50, it's after 1 PM, you should be about ready to start that engine!
Tou installed the new oil seal right? Buddy had a KT17 rebuilt, cost him more for the rebuild than I paid for my first 3-4 CC's COMBINED till I got the 982... Guy forgot to install the oil seal on the flywheel end of the crankcase. It piddled oil ALL over.
Lets see, you posted the pic @ 10:50, it's after 1 PM, you should be about ready to start that engine!
Dennis Frisk
Nope ,not today.I want to paint it and I need to have the 125 ready for the 12 K .I`am installing points rod and new points and cam cover.Soon it will run when the 125 Cub is finished (painted). A five foot job will do for a worker.
Nope ,not today.I want to paint it and I need to have the 125 ready for the 12 K .I`am installing points rod and new points and cam cover.Soon it will run when the 125 Cub is finished (painted). A five foot job will do for a worker.
July if it's anywhere close to me!
Eric T.
lpalma
Well-known member
here are some pictures of my 782's rock shaft.I know the lift bar for the sleeve hitch is in the way .
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Hello All,
It has been a while since I posted with my 1450 woes. Well, The deeper I got the more seemed to go wrong. The engine on the 1450 continued to give issues, starter finally gave out, governer issues, etc.So, I made the decision to use my 1450 as a parts mower or at least take 2 and make 1. I have been on a fairly passive hunt for a tractor and I finally found one in TN near some family members house. It was a 1650 that had a great frame, strong engine, nice 50" deck but sounded like it had some trunion issues with tranny. Having sat for 2 years I did get it cranked before I bought it though the drive shaft was removed. Turns out, it is more than trunion issues. Actually the trunion itself was not very groved, but somewhere in its life someone let a linkage get out of adjustment, bent another and now all of the linkages all the way from the shift lever to the actual rod in the pump are worn severely. It is dangerous to drive even after I replaced and readjusted as much play out as I could. Anyway, I have decided to take the rear end out of my 1450 (pump, gears, linkages, etc) and put it on my 1650. Here is my question. My 1450 had the newer auto style hydro relief valve. (like the ones discussed here:http://cubfaq.com/relief1.html) My 1650 came with the older style manual relief with the buttons on the top and the lever on the tunnel case (like ones here https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/HydroProblemsC.htm). One of the auto relief valves on the 1450 I am planning to use is bad and needs to be replaced. It leaks oil through the top little hole. Since I have two pumps to work with, can I simply swap the 2 button relief valves in place of the auto check relief valves?
Thanks for your help.
Chad
I have included pic of new tractor. Though tranny is going to need replacement, I did have it running and mowed my grass after 2.5 hrs of work. Price paid i think worth it-- $200
It has been a while since I posted with my 1450 woes. Well, The deeper I got the more seemed to go wrong. The engine on the 1450 continued to give issues, starter finally gave out, governer issues, etc.So, I made the decision to use my 1450 as a parts mower or at least take 2 and make 1. I have been on a fairly passive hunt for a tractor and I finally found one in TN near some family members house. It was a 1650 that had a great frame, strong engine, nice 50" deck but sounded like it had some trunion issues with tranny. Having sat for 2 years I did get it cranked before I bought it though the drive shaft was removed. Turns out, it is more than trunion issues. Actually the trunion itself was not very groved, but somewhere in its life someone let a linkage get out of adjustment, bent another and now all of the linkages all the way from the shift lever to the actual rod in the pump are worn severely. It is dangerous to drive even after I replaced and readjusted as much play out as I could. Anyway, I have decided to take the rear end out of my 1450 (pump, gears, linkages, etc) and put it on my 1650. Here is my question. My 1450 had the newer auto style hydro relief valve. (like the ones discussed here:http://cubfaq.com/relief1.html) My 1650 came with the older style manual relief with the buttons on the top and the lever on the tunnel case (like ones here https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/HydroProblemsC.htm). One of the auto relief valves on the 1450 I am planning to use is bad and needs to be replaced. It leaks oil through the top little hole. Since I have two pumps to work with, can I simply swap the 2 button relief valves in place of the auto check relief valves?
Thanks for your help.
Chad
I have included pic of new tractor. Though tranny is going to need replacement, I did have it running and mowed my grass after 2.5 hrs of work. Price paid i think worth it-- $200
Lewis,
The pin that goes thru the cylinder looks to be 3/8" (smaller than the back pin). Because the cylinder hole is 1/2" (I haven't seen any that were different), that means there is either built-in play in the hole or it's bushed. Still have that question, but thanks to you I now know my part isn't an oddball. Thanks much for the pictures!
The pin that goes thru the cylinder looks to be 3/8" (smaller than the back pin). Because the cylinder hole is 1/2" (I haven't seen any that were different), that means there is either built-in play in the hole or it's bushed. Still have that question, but thanks to you I now know my part isn't an oddball. Thanks much for the pictures!
Chad M.
Yes you can switch them. Just remember to switch the tunnel cover too.
Yes you can switch them. Just remember to switch the tunnel cover too.
