Ron G.
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Archive through February 24, 2015
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Those are the only ones left out of 237 I had that survived the fire.
balbrecht
Well-known member
Harry B,
My guess is the foil tag on Lewis P's 127 is the result of it having had a short block installed at some point in it's life. I have a NOS short block in my garage and the tags are in the box to place on the flywheel shroud. The original metal tag may have been removed at that time to prevent confusion down the road.
My guess is the foil tag on Lewis P's 127 is the result of it having had a short block installed at some point in it's life. I have a NOS short block in my garage and the tags are in the box to place on the flywheel shroud. The original metal tag may have been removed at that time to prevent confusion down the road.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
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- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Brian - I was thinking just like you. Could it be Great Minds Think Alike? (You, me and Albert E?) I think Lewis is playing games with us.
Lewis - the Kohler Serial No.3020245 comes up as built 1971, which seems early in the 127 production. I think you said this is not your tractor but until I see a close up pic of that sticker tag I'm still gonna think it's a replacement engine/short block, just like Brian suggested.
Now, Josh thinks he got off the limb, and my saw is all dulled up, and some of the others on here are see-sawing on this tree so I'm going to drop this thing and run. For what it's worth there are some interesting pictures and captions on page 29 of the 1x6/7 Operator Manual that do look something like the tractor in your pics.
Lewis - the Kohler Serial No.3020245 comes up as built 1971, which seems early in the 127 production. I think you said this is not your tractor but until I see a close up pic of that sticker tag I'm still gonna think it's a replacement engine/short block, just like Brian suggested.
Now, Josh thinks he got off the limb, and my saw is all dulled up, and some of the others on here are see-sawing on this tree so I'm going to drop this thing and run. For what it's worth there are some interesting pictures and captions on page 29 of the 1x6/7 Operator Manual that do look something like the tractor in your pics.
Kraig,
My aluminum tensioning bracket was worn on one side. I installed steel washers on that side and the amount of play is minimal (just enough). I remembered seeing your fix from before, thanks for the link and pics again.
Jim P,
Drive gear does = sprocket. I have performed the repair which I replaced the sprocket, roller bearings and installed steel washers to take up the play. I did check the alignment of the chain and it looks good.
I then used synthetic grease and applied it to the rollers of the chain. You are right in that it does not get into the rollers. In the past I have been applying oil to the chain after using it. I like the idea of one lubricant to do both the chain and sprockets.
Regarding the large sprocket on the auger, it will need replacing after this season is over. Right now it is holding up.
One note for anyone installing new roller bearings for the snow thrower drive sprocket shaft. The roller bearings have a small (about 1/32 dia.) hole in the bearing housing. This hole is to be lined up with the grease fittings during assembly to allow the grease to enter the bearing. I was glad I took a minute to examine the bearing and noticed the hole before pressing into the tensioning bracket.
Thanks Kraig and Jim P. for your responses
My aluminum tensioning bracket was worn on one side. I installed steel washers on that side and the amount of play is minimal (just enough). I remembered seeing your fix from before, thanks for the link and pics again.
Jim P,
Drive gear does = sprocket. I have performed the repair which I replaced the sprocket, roller bearings and installed steel washers to take up the play. I did check the alignment of the chain and it looks good.
I then used synthetic grease and applied it to the rollers of the chain. You are right in that it does not get into the rollers. In the past I have been applying oil to the chain after using it. I like the idea of one lubricant to do both the chain and sprockets.
Regarding the large sprocket on the auger, it will need replacing after this season is over. Right now it is holding up.
One note for anyone installing new roller bearings for the snow thrower drive sprocket shaft. The roller bearings have a small (about 1/32 dia.) hole in the bearing housing. This hole is to be lined up with the grease fittings during assembly to allow the grease to enter the bearing. I was glad I took a minute to examine the bearing and noticed the hole before pressing into the tensioning bracket.
Thanks Kraig and Jim P. for your responses
Richard W.,
nbextermueller
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- May 18, 2007
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- Nic Bextermueller
Harry... I'm sure there is an Albert E. out there somewhere that shares your ideals. But his last name is certainly not Einstein...
Jim C.
And the links Kraig gave ya are in the Manuals section here on the forum.
And the links Kraig gave ya are in the Manuals section here on the forum.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Jim C - well I sure hope you ain't got one of those engines like Lew has with an oil fill cap and an oil level gauge. What was Kohler thinking when they did that.
Nic B - very interesting that there were alot of guys following this dipstick debate, even Kraig and Charlie. Although it may have seemed a bit trivial I'll bet alot of guys learned something they didn't know, and likely will remember it as well. I'll be the first to raise my hand.
Nic B - very interesting that there were alot of guys following this dipstick debate, even Kraig and Charlie. Although it may have seemed a bit trivial I'll bet alot of guys learned something they didn't know, and likely will remember it as well. I'll be the first to raise my hand.
Going to salvage some K301 exhaust elbows using a 3" x 1" double wall black pipe nipple cut in half.
Used a 1x6 nipple w/cplgs to center the old ells in the saw for removal of a 1-1/2" section with the damaged threads.
Used a 1x6 nipple w/cplgs to center the old ells in the saw for removal of a 1-1/2" section with the damaged threads.
Time to turn this back on.
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