Archive through February 23, 2011

[nbartee]

Kraig & Don,

As you can see, the holes in item 5 are different sizes. The pins are the same size & large. Also, why is there a hole in the bushing? What is the nut for? How does this @#%& go together? I also have to mount the bar for the 3 point.

 

[dfrisk]

DONALD - Yes, copper head gaskets ARE available for Kohler's. Search Mid-West SuperCub, my '09 catalog shows they're $14 US. I'm sure they're more now.

JEFF B. - I know new parts for rebuilds are expensive, but I'd throw a set of aftermarket rings in the better of the two engines before I'd swap used pistons. You'll also have to roughen up the cyl. bore with a bottom hone or something. You need a sharp cross hatch to break-in the rings.

 

[mgonitzke]

Norm-

Look in the picture Kraig posted on the previous page; you can see the orientation of the parts. I tried to explain it in a nearby post. Here is a terrible sketch that I'm hoping may illustrate the order in which things go together.

I don't know why there is a hole in the bushing. It isn't used. The nut is for the float lockout bolt. The lift bar for the 3-point connects between that rockshaft arm you are trying to figure out and the right framerail. You'll need a new (longer) clevis pin so that it can come all the way through.

 

[wshytle]

Michael-

Nice find! Every once in a while a "new" tractor comes through and it is just screaming restore. This is one of them in my opinion. You will start to see what I mean after a pressure washing. You asked about the spring assist and does it help...think about it. It simply helps what ever is lifting the weight to lift by taking some of the weight. You are going to need rear axle seals especially on the side you pictured. I'd go through and change fluids. It may pay to just find another tank but the advice about having it done professionally was good. Do the carb, check grounds, throw a battery in and have a blast.

 

[jbaker]

Dennis I have a friend with a hone,ridge cutter, and ring compressor. I just don't have the funds.
I have pictures of the two pistons but they keep streching the page so I deleted them

 

[nbartee]

Matt & Kraig,

Then I guess to make this thing work I've got to open the small hole in item 5 up to .5". I wonder how did it work before?

 

[nbartee]

Matt,

I took another look at your drawing (thanks, BTW) and the smaller pin will go into the cylinder. But the hole in the cylinder is .5". Is that much play correct?
Something doesn't jive, because when I look at an exploded view, the picture shows those holes opposite than what I have, yet this was taken off a 782???

 

[nbartee]

Also the pins shown in the first picture are the same size, .5". It may not appear that way.

 

[aaytay]

Don-
It sounds like you're doing all of the right stuff on your engine rebuild. <font size="-2">Well, minus the whole "freezer episode" but we'll excuse that one.</font>

If you want "no noise" when you first start that engine, make sure you keep the CAM tolerance at it's tightest when you install the cam. They've been known to knock a bit if you let them get to the loose side of things.

 

[dtanner]

Art A

I hope you mean end play. I used the shim that was in the K before and on the correct end of the cam. I better read the manual again I have on my shop confusher in the am.??

 

[rklein]

Michael,

You don't need to go to a radiatoe shop. Take your tank off, drain completely, wash inside with soapy water to get rid of any gas residue, then flip it upside down on your bench, heat with a propane plumbers torch and wash area with flux cleaner. When clean, resolder and your done. Easy as joining copper pipe fittings. I did mine this winter!

 

[klorenz]

Michael...If you happen NOT to know how to join copper pipe fittings or don't want to buy a propane plumbers torch, flux cleaner, and solder, then take your tank to a radiator shop and let a professional repair it!!

 

[digger]

PSA on welding tanks. The solder they used back in the day is NOT 50/50 like you buy today.
It's good old lead, most likely 100% too, LOL.
It melts a lot faster than what you can buy over the counter these days. Slow/Low heat will get it done though.
Also, it's best to flux the inside seam as well to get go flow on the solder.

 

[mhale]

Thanks all,
I picked up an extra tank I had at my brothers yesterday so I have a tank I can put on my 72. I'll play with the broke one. I never soldered before. My father had a tourch and I think I have it so I'll see what I can do. I got the piece out of the tank today. If I can't fix it I'll see about a shop in town. I know these tanks are expensive and hard to find. Looking at the parts dealers they have square tanks where as this one is round. I didn't want to scrap it for it is a nice tank! I was lucky I had a few extra tanks in my parts collection and one was round.

I plan to restore this 72. I'll need advice if I have to replace rear end seals. I never done that. I have a manual too I can look at. This one may be first since it will be the easiest. I found a frame for my 105 but need some truck repair before I drive up to Indiana to get it. I'm doin some parts trading and that will almost complete the parts for my 105.

Only changes I'll make to the 72 is the rear wheels. The JD wheels will go. I'll keep the spacers but won't put them back on. I may add lights and fenders but that will be later on. I'm not gonna paint it yet. It's paint isn't bad. Just needs degreasing and the mudd washed off. I plan to put new tires on it. I want agg tires on the back. Don't know about the front. Any suggestions? Front tires are mis matched. One original tire the other being a replacement zig zag. Rims are original.

First Cub Cadet my father bought in 1984 was a 73. My brother has it now. This one reminds me of it now since they are alot alike.

Can't wait to play with the Hydro lift!!

Thanks again!!
Michael Hale

 

[mhale]

Oh yea I forgot I'm gonna try to put the correct muffler on it. LOL

Also I have two more to restore. They are stored in my brothers building. One is a 70 the other is an Original. I always liked the little 7hp Cub Cadets.

Michael

 

[dfrisk]

JEFF B. - You won;t need the ridge cutter. I've never seen a Kohler with much of a ridge. There will be some carbon build up at the top of the cylinder where there's no rings sweeping the bore but that scrapes out.

Hone and ring compressor is all you should need. I'd follow new engine rebuild break in routine. And be careful removing the rings & wrist pin keepers you plan to use.

 

[ccarney]

Michael H.

Thanks for sharing pix of your 72. I've not seen a 72 that's had hydraulic lift for a long time like yours. You've got an IH helper spring too, as a bonus. Do you know if this had a tiller at one time?

 

[dtanner]

Dennis Frisk

Could you comment on Arts post on the cam install.I did put the shim on the end of the crank where the manual said to install it.What am I missing ?

. Please advise . I want to finish putting the 12K back together for paint. Thanks Don T

 

[mgonitzke]

Don-

You have to make sure the cam endplay is on the tight end of the spec range given in the Kohler service manual. If it is too loose, you may have to add some shims between the end of the cam and the block to tighten it up a bit. The crank endplay is set using some combination of the various bearing plate gaskets that come with the gasket set.

 

[dfrisk]

DON - Art's exactly right. The helical gears driving the cam can cause the cam to slide forward & back on the 1/2" dia. shaft the cam runs on making a small knock as the engine runs. It also effects cam & ignition timing a bit. The block expands as it heats up making the knock worse as the engine gets hot. Shimming to the very low end of the tolerance range helps stabilize the timing variations snd eliminates the knock.

I forget exactly where I set the cam end play on my K321, think it was just below mid-range on the tolerance and I can hear just a faint knock, but with the straight pipe you can't hear it at speed.

I know when I built my K241 years ago I actually had to make a brass shim washer to get to the low end of the range and it was quiet. I didn't have the supply of gernade gear shims I have now which also work great on the cam.

Just a cheap set of feeler gauges is all that's needed to set the end play. You also have to set the crankshaft end play closely too using the removable back plate gaskets between the block and back plate. I normally set it to just UNDER the tolerance with all the gaskets & shim gaskets dry, then put gasket sealant on every surface and install.