• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through February 23, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Kraig-

That's what I was hoping someone would have
happy.gif


Norm-

There is no float lockout pin, it's a bolt, and it goes roughly where the arrow for #3 is pointing in Kraig's picture.
 
Michael, I cleaned up your post a little. Those spacers appear to be the same as the spacers used with the Danco loader.
 
hey u guys
i bought my 1st cc(102)
im tring to restore it to factory condition,do u guys have any tips or hidden pitfalls that a new owner should know about?
i am very excited about it but like i said, im new.
 
Michael, here's a detail photo of the wheel spacers on Keith L's Original with a Danco loader. Not quite the same I guess. Nice 72 BTW.
happy.gif


221674.jpg
 
Carefull with the Firestone Gum dipped tires, I purchased a pair of new front tri-ribs for the 149 a year later they were weather checked, the tractor never left the barn?? I believe some offshore companies are using the molds but the compounds are junk!
JMHO
 
Thanks for cleaning up the pictures. Neet spacer on the Original. Mine are two piece. I'll have to take them off and see if they are Cub Cadet. Paint matches the tractor and they been on there a long time. What do you all think of the Hydro lift? I hope it still works. I picked up my extra gas tank. The one on the tractor has the part that the gas line hooks too come un sordered. Can anyone sorder these back? It's a nice tank and I hate to scrap it. Also came with a 12hp tank which I can use. Not shown was the Brinley adapter. I am pleased to get that. Now I need a plow!! LOl

Michael
 
Zachery, whatch out for previous owner (po) mods like bolts where roll pins should be. Make sure the trans has genuine hytran, there is NO subsitute.

Michael, somewon soddered the gas tank on my cco several years ago and it hasn't leaked since.
 
Guys I need some help lol.I`am putting the crank in my fresh rebuilt 12 K and I`am alighing crank to cam, I found the cam mark and hope this is what I use for the crank.The manual does not show this for me to be sure. Thanks Don T
221677.jpg
 
Michael... A good radiator repair shop should be able to solder the fitting on your tank. They can then pressure test it also. I had the one soldered on my 70 at a radiator shop about 8 years ago. I don't think it will ever leak again.

The 72 looks good. A little degreaser and a pressure wash will do wonders for it.
 
Home of the Plow Special (Aaytay)

Thanks for making me feel better about that.The manual show an arrow.I have the piston and rod in the freezer lol.Thanks Later Don T
worthy.gif
 
I just have to share part of the email I just got from a 94 year old kid!

"I need some help. I am trying to remove the PTO from my brand new to me 1964 cub cadet 100. I have looked on line and everyone keeps telling me to remove six set set screws, I have removed 5 and cannot find the 6th. I have removed 3 small ones and two larger ones."

Seems he got the 3 upper set screws out in the PTO and proceeded to take out the 3 that hold the fingers in! But only 2 came loose, LOL
After I told him there were 3 more set screws still in the PTO, and he should not have take the big ones out,he started laughing and said and I quote,
"What a damn fool I am, I made a mistake almost like that back in the 40's and should have remembered it!"

Then after 20 minutes on the phone, HE decided I needed to walk him through the bearing and locking collar routine.
Oh did I mention that he dropped the phone no less than 11 times as he had it in the shop with him while WE worked on his tractor!

He's now all excited about his new toy that he just inherited when his son passed away last fall.

What an afternoon!
clappy.gif
 
Charlie-
That's a funny story...

Don-
Why on earth would you have the piston and rod in the freezer?
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
Art-

I was also wondering the same thing. I could perhaps see putting the crank in the freezer to make it easier to put it into the PTO end bearing, but not the piston/rod.
confused.gif
 
Home of the Plow Special (Aaytay)

You surprise me ! I put the rod and piston in the freezer to shrink the pin in the piston. I bet I can push that pin out real easy In the am.My Norton interstate 850 , When i did the rebuild on the engine ,the directions said to put the piston pins in the freeze before installing them. They fell in and buy the time I got the pins clipped they were stuck. So I use that idea on all small engines since 1980.
old.gif
 
Cryogenically treated piston & rod maybe? I know there's a Wheatland Special CC under construction with a cryogenically treated rod but not the piston.
 
DONALD - Kohlers use "Floating wrist pins", there's a small clearance between the pin & bores in both the piston & rod. The round wire retainers hold the pin in. Also there's special notes in bold type ALL over the Kohler manual the retainers are a one-time use item.

It won't hurt to freeze the pin but you should warm the piston & rod before assembling to make the bores grow.

I've never done that on any of my engine rebuilds but it won't hurt anything. Just make sure you coat everything with some sort of assembly lube to prevent dry start-ups.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top