Archive through February 21, 2010

[ljones]

 

[cstewart]

This ought to be an easy one. Pushed a little snow around and went to tighten the chains a little, when I heard a hissing coming from a rear valve stem. Now, these are are fluid-filled tires/wheels I got from Ray Weaver, so I don't really wanna have to drain 'em. Is there a way to replace the valve stem without having to break the bead of the tire? I just wanna keep this as simple as possible for right now.

 

[bbowman]

Yea Frank;nice save!

Got my "gave-away-and-got-back-with-a-hole-in-the-block" 128 running today.It's running a little rough and smokes a skosh,but it is a runner! Had a donor 128 just sitting around,so I made a swap.Pictures will be posted later.

!

 

[digger]

Chip S.
Turn the tire so the valve stem is up.
Get a small thin blade screw driver and have it close.
Have a new stem greased up with dish soap ready.
Pull/cut it out, hold the stem tight, push with the screw driver to seat the rubber into the wheel and work your way around it.
It's not that hard, BTDT many times.

 

[ljones]

I seen on cc specialties that you can buy a light blue or a dark blue headlight decal
which one is correct for my 122.

 

[junderwood]

Frank the hydro is fine. You may need to get the correct linkage and plates since the 149 and 1811 use different setups. No big deal.

 

[dtanner]

Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
lol it will bolt up,but I think the Cam pivot was made at a different angle for the 1811. It might be hard to get the neutral adjustment.

just the cam pivot plate is different

 

[tdaugherty]

So if i ground the generator F post, it should start to charge, and would mean my regulator is bad or out of adjustment?

 

[tsmoker]

Chip S. - If it is leaking out of the valve, you can replace it and not have to replace the complete stem. I had one leaking earlier this winter. Put in a new valve and has been fine since.

 

[gcamille]

Dennis F.
Running without the anti-rattle clips. Hope you don't have any close neighbors. I have to wear ear protection.
Gary

 

[sblunier]

This mornings heavy wet snow did in the bellcrank on my 2072 lift rockshaft. It had been fixed once before by a previous owner, but the fix didn't hold up (it is a high stress area on a SGT). I had to fix the exact same thing on the Haban blade last year at this time...I guess I got bothe ends of the lift rod taken care of now....

I made sure I got plenty of good metal and a nice big "V" to fill with weld for a solid fix. (Had to remove the brake pedals to "do it right")

Took about an hour and a half to get back up and running, and made for a nice excuse to exercise the big Blue "glue gun"

 

[digger]

Steve B.
I guess you missed this too!
Use this topic only for discussion about IH Garden Tractors built prior to 1981.

 

[rformo]

Can someone tell me the model of my Cub Cadet with a serial number of 108519? So far,I have June 1961 for mfg.date.
Thanks,****

 

[rformo]

Then again,it could be a 1965 because of the six digits. Ser.no. 108519 is what model ?

 

[sblunier]

...did I say 2072???...I meant early 982 that I painted yellow and white with add on PS.........


..OK, I probably can't save it like Frank did.......

 

[digger]

 

[fcurrier]

Richard Formo: Welcome!

From Hank Will's book "CUB CADET The First 45 Years" (recommended reading, I must add) I'd say you have either a Model 70 or Model 100. Between August 1963 and August 1965 the serial numbers went from 65458 to 127160. That's the best I can do from the other side of the continent!

 

[bcarl]

Chip,

Tractor Supply carries a valve stem seating tool that consists of a cable with a T handle on one end and a screw end to fit on the valve stem. Works great to get a grip on the valve stem and seat the valve stem in the rim.

Bruce

 

[mbounds]

Richard F: Serial Number 108519 is a Model 70 or Model 100 and was made in February (probably the second week) of 1965 according to the Louisville production records.

Myron B

 

[T-Mo]

Using Steve Spencer's design that I tweaked a bit, and using a sketch I got from Charlie Proctor, I drew up these plans. They only thing I disagree with on Steve's design was his 9.50 dimension, so I drew mine up at 9.88. I would like to verify that dimension though, of the lower lift point on a narrow frame if anyone has it. I measured mine at 9.10, not 8.75 that Steve's plan would be at.

See my plans here:

http://cubcadet.1.forumer.com/index.php?act=Attach&type=post&id=442