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Archive through February 20, 2015
- Thread starter jboelens
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
lpalma
Well-known member
Looking good there John, I see you have blankies for some.
John, looks like you have a serious case of Yellow and White fever!
jlspicer
Well-known member
John,
Nice...........
Nice...........
John, Ya got leave them lights on BRIGHT!! And turn off the dern old timey country music....You know what happens in the dark!!!! They multiply, kind alike rabbits!
Richard W.
Does drive gear = sprocket, in your posting?
I personally don’t replace just one sprocket of a chain drive, I would replace both sprockets and a new chain. Especially since one sprocket was chewed up. Could be damage to the chain and other sprocket. Assuming you have a QA thrower, make sure the chain tensioning bolts are equally “tensioning”. This means the two sprockets are in-line with one another. If this is off (a fair amount) the small sprocket can get damaged quickly. What is the condition of the needle bearings and aluminum tensioning bracket assembly?
I use a spray “chain & steel cable lubricant” which works well, but should to be applied before each use. Grease stays on the chain longer, but does not get into the chain rollers very well.
Jim
Does drive gear = sprocket, in your posting?
I personally don’t replace just one sprocket of a chain drive, I would replace both sprockets and a new chain. Especially since one sprocket was chewed up. Could be damage to the chain and other sprocket. Assuming you have a QA thrower, make sure the chain tensioning bolts are equally “tensioning”. This means the two sprockets are in-line with one another. If this is off (a fair amount) the small sprocket can get damaged quickly. What is the condition of the needle bearings and aluminum tensioning bracket assembly?
I use a spray “chain & steel cable lubricant” which works well, but should to be applied before each use. Grease stays on the chain longer, but does not get into the chain rollers very well.
Jim
Vermeer has a spray can chain lube I always used on my ratchet binders. Ya spray it on, it sticks and foams up. Kinda weird, but good sticky stuff.
Lucky me!! This is the T/O bearing that was in my 126 When I picked it up last spring. The tractor looked as if it was ready to roll down the final furrow to that great compost pile at the top of the heap at North End Wrecking Yard.
Note the "wp" logo. Must have just been replaced as it rolls free as a bird and smooth as a baby's butt so it's going back in the tractor.
Note the "wp" logo. Must have just been replaced as it rolls free as a bird and smooth as a baby's butt so it's going back in the tractor.
David S., nice! Ya gotta like it when you discover a good part like that.
Richard W., Jim P., here's one thing I'll add to the discussion on the chain tensioner for the QA snowthrowers. I noticed years ago that the aluminum tensioner bracket was getting worn by the driveshaft so I added steel washers as shims to help prevent further wear to the aluminum. So far, 14+ years on it appears to be working. Here's a link to where I posted about it with photos indicating where I added the "shims":
LINK to the Photos of the QA42 chain tensioner / drive shaft shims
Photos are way at the bottom of the linked page.
Richard W., Jim P., here's one thing I'll add to the discussion on the chain tensioner for the QA snowthrowers. I noticed years ago that the aluminum tensioner bracket was getting worn by the driveshaft so I added steel washers as shims to help prevent further wear to the aluminum. So far, 14+ years on it appears to be working. Here's a link to where I posted about it with photos indicating where I added the "shims":
LINK to the Photos of the QA42 chain tensioner / drive shaft shims
Photos are way at the bottom of the linked page.
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2010
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- Jack Marks
Jack M.
I'm assuming that you want them for Free?
I'm assuming that you want them for Free?
Ready to lock and load!!
The last of my needed engine tins showed up yesterday. Now I can get 'em painted and bolted on w/the head.
This was on the muffler tin that I rec'd. The original had a big chunk cut out of it. Does this decal come with any sets? I won't need it for this engine, but I do have another 301 w/the side mounted gear cover D/Stick.
The last of my needed engine tins showed up yesterday. Now I can get 'em painted and bolted on w/the head.
This was on the muffler tin that I rec'd. The original had a big chunk cut out of it. Does this decal come with any sets? I won't need it for this engine, but I do have another 301 w/the side mounted gear cover D/Stick.
Well, good evening folks! First, I would like to extend my thanks to all who contributed to my inquiries about my 682 wiring issue.
The good news is that the 682 is back in full functional mode. And more good news, nothing was damaged or fried due to the error. And lastly, the fix only ran about $15. As Gene Wilder exclaimed in Young Frankenstein, "It's ALIVE!"
After much due diligence (tracing wires, isolating and testing/ checking components, etc.), I found the problem. I highly suspect that the mischievous shop gremlins were hard at work sometime in the past - I couldn't possibly hade made an error
! It wasn't an error in following Roland's schematic wiring diagram - just an incorrect part, partially miswired.
It turned out that 'somehow' an incorrect relay had found its way into the circuitry (it was a dual #87 contact type - both N.O. contacts -oops). So a quick trip to Advance Auto to get the right one (FYI, it is a 'BWD' # R3074P - the store was a lot closer than the NAPA store that stocked the one Roland had referenced as a replacement). After a temporary reconnection of everything, the M 18 fired right off after sitting dormant for so long (5+ years - what a relief. No leaks, no fireworks, no hiccups.
So, now it's on to doing the final reassembly and a few more minor finishing touches. Then I can move on to rehabilitating the mule drive and the snow blade - it looks like it may be seeing a fair amount of use here in the mountains if the snow contnues.
Hopefully, I can/ will get some 'presentation' photos together soon.
Thanks again!
Steve
The good news is that the 682 is back in full functional mode. And more good news, nothing was damaged or fried due to the error. And lastly, the fix only ran about $15. As Gene Wilder exclaimed in Young Frankenstein, "It's ALIVE!"
After much due diligence (tracing wires, isolating and testing/ checking components, etc.), I found the problem. I highly suspect that the mischievous shop gremlins were hard at work sometime in the past - I couldn't possibly hade made an error
It turned out that 'somehow' an incorrect relay had found its way into the circuitry (it was a dual #87 contact type - both N.O. contacts -oops). So a quick trip to Advance Auto to get the right one (FYI, it is a 'BWD' # R3074P - the store was a lot closer than the NAPA store that stocked the one Roland had referenced as a replacement). After a temporary reconnection of everything, the M 18 fired right off after sitting dormant for so long (5+ years - what a relief. No leaks, no fireworks, no hiccups.
So, now it's on to doing the final reassembly and a few more minor finishing touches. Then I can move on to rehabilitating the mule drive and the snow blade - it looks like it may be seeing a fair amount of use here in the mountains if the snow contnues.
Hopefully, I can/ will get some 'presentation' photos together soon.
Thanks again!
Steve
Kraig,
I did the same when I put a new aluminum chain drive tensioner (BKT), but I used bronze thrust bearings. The old BKT was worn down to the bearings. I paid $56 for the BKT back in the 90's, I wish I would have bought all the rest CC had at that time. I guess that can be said for just about all CC parts.
What is a PTO clutch kit go for these days?
Jim
I did the same when I put a new aluminum chain drive tensioner (BKT), but I used bronze thrust bearings. The old BKT was worn down to the bearings. I paid $56 for the BKT back in the 90's, I wish I would have bought all the rest CC had at that time. I guess that can be said for just about all CC parts.
What is a PTO clutch kit go for these days?
Jim
snicklas
Well-known member
Steve,
Not sure if it is supposed to, but I know on my 1650 with the QA42A Snowthrower on it, the thrower will "freewheel" when the engine is running, even with the PTO switch "off". It only does this with the thrower. When the deck is mounted, it doesn't freewheel with the switch off. Next summer, once it warms up I am planning verifying the Air-Gap on the PTO, and also make sure there aren't "belt parts" stuck in the PTO. When I bought it last spring, there was a shredded belt around the PTO. The first time I started it, I thought it had a rod knock. It was what was left of the belt was smacking the muffler tins....
Not sure if it is supposed to, but I know on my 1650 with the QA42A Snowthrower on it, the thrower will "freewheel" when the engine is running, even with the PTO switch "off". It only does this with the thrower. When the deck is mounted, it doesn't freewheel with the switch off. Next summer, once it warms up I am planning verifying the Air-Gap on the PTO, and also make sure there aren't "belt parts" stuck in the PTO. When I bought it last spring, there was a shredded belt around the PTO. The first time I started it, I thought it had a rod knock. It was what was left of the belt was smacking the muffler tins....
