Archive through February 20, 2013

[dtanner]

I like starting new pages and so does Frank C.

have a great day all

 

[mgerecke]

David C- thank you for the info on the valve lash. I noticed when you rotated the engine that the compression release let go and I had lash. It looks as though the top nut on the adjuster was loose. Tightened it down and the lash is correct.
Engine seems to start better than it has. It will finally start on its own when warm without pulling the choke out at idle only.

Is there a difference in the hydro pumps? My 149 has 2 screws and what looks like a drain back hole in the area that mounts it to the rear. I just purchased another pump which is gray in color but it is lacking these screws and the hole. Will that make a difference?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kurt, all you should have to do would be to use the linkage from the internal brake rear end, I believe it will be the correct length.

Above is a 1450 internal brake setup. Items # 8 and 9 have different part numbers than Items# 1 and 2 in the drawing below. Although Item # 11 in each also has a different part number so you may want to use that part from a Cub with an internal brake as well. Might be a leverage or throw issue.

Below is a 1450 external brake setup.

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE B. - Yep, the ideal GD would have to be like Jim D's, an SGT.. start with an A or B rearend minus the drop housings, bigger heavier shafts & bearings, plus 4 spds forward, and then the hyd, two sets of remotes minimum, and Cat O 3-pt, and a T/A & P/S. It'd have to use taller tires, 16 inch rim diameter minimum like Kurt Smith uses on his 1/4 scale tractors. You'd still need some sort of gear reduction to get your ground speeds right but that's do-able. Or maybe start with a 340 Utility, 5 spds forward plus T/A. And 25 HP would be a good starting point.

Yes, I've had my clutch slip a time or two at PD's, but that was with 35+ yr old parts, friction disk, pressure plates & springs. And only in 2nd gear on real hard pulls. I doubt the new MWSC stuff would ever slip even with 40+% more HP. I don't own enough wheel weights or suitcase weights to hook that much power to the ground.

PD #2 was where a couple guys were boiling over their Hy-Tran in their hydro's. At the "MUD Bowl" where SON came along and I brought both the 982 & 72 I brought my Raytech temp gun and shot temps on a couple hydro's. There were a couple getting warm there. 180-190-195 degrees. Not sure how hot is TOO Hot. My 982 was running around 160 IIRC. The 72 was running ambient temp plus about five degrees on the one round I made with it. Dang roll pin!

MARLIN - I can't ever remember anybody having a big IH Hydro around home 20-30 miles south-east of the Quad-Cities. Even the JD Power Shift wasn't popular, maybe 10% at most of the 3020/4020's were P/S. I can see where a 656 Hydro with a mounted picker could hold the heat in the rearend. No air ciculating around the tractor, and what air was moving would be hot air from around the engine. But the idea of a hydro under a mounted picker does sound interesting. Dad always used his '51 M under his 2M-E picker until the last couple yrs he farmed, then bought a dedicated '49 M to put under the picker. It wasn't the hot-rod the '51 M was, no M&W sleeves & pistons, no live hyd, no Char-Lynn P/S but had the stock 5-spds so gained an extra picking gear. The '51 M had the Fast 4th gear set so had the same speeds as a Super M, so picking was a 2nd gear job, 1st was too slow, 3rd was over 5 MPH, kinda too fast. With the dedicated M he could run 2nd or 3rd. 3-1/2 or 4.3 MPH.

 

[pbell]

Dennis,
I have a model 70 (second time I've owned it) that I used to plow with in the "Mile of IH", IHC Chapter #7 2008 Tillage Days, Oct 10,11,12 at the Thieme/Gatewood Farms, Noblesville, IN. The engine was rebuilt right before I bought the tractor in 2008, but the clutch needed help. I replaced the pressure plates with the MWSC billet plates and used their kevlar clutch disc with a stock spring. It worked good, but I did get some slippage in 2nd gear. I had to keep stopping because I was faster plowing in 2nd gear than the 100 I was following that was plowing is 1st gear. One of the MWSC "red" springs" might have been a better choice rather than the stock spring.

This is that tractor as it is today (the light spots are from the sun shinning through the trees/shade it is under), but it was pretty nasty and rusty at the plow day.

 

[jharvey]

In the GD Hydro debate one should remember Hydros don't jump out of gear in a hard pull!

 

[dtanner]

Paul Bell

If I live long enuf I hope all my tractors will look half that nice.Is that rattle can paint or ? It sure is "pretty"

 

[rbeem]

Isn't the Gear drive / Hydro debate over yet?

Ask my wife which project tractor she would rather push across the shop! Lots of good points made....
Now if people would actually start showing up at plow days so that we can see some REAL results of rubber meeting the dirt.
Everybody needs to make a point of making it to local events, the attendance by Cub Cadets in this area has been VERY Low.
Rob D. Mark me down at your Plow day, I'll be there with my 149 and "148". How's that for a test?

 

[eblake]

ok yall.....i keep hearing bout these "plow days"......when is there gonna be one around these here parts????? not gonna drive back to the mid-west to go to one....

 

[pbell]

Don,
Both. The yellow is Case IH federal yellow rattle can, the white is Nasons acrylic enamel w/hardener in a IH901 white match. The tractor was petty rusted so there are rust pits that were missed.......<font size="-2">I blame in on old eyes and bi-focals</font>

 

[dtanner]

Paul Bell

My 125 has some rust pits also; but that won`t hurt it for working .I`am not ever doing a 100 pointer as Harry calls them. I`am just as happy to have a good looking and working cub . a 6' paint job is fine for me;They only get scratched up , My 129 loader I spent a pile of time on the paint and now after using it for a few years it has a few scratches .They only have to please me no one else lol.

 

[kostendorf]

My first time taking the k341 out wasn't to bad. But it doesn't look as easy to install it. Has any one tried using studs locktighted in the oil pan so the ISO frame can be already installed. Then I could just lower the engine in and use lock nuts to tighten it in.

 

[kfreeman]

Keith,

Since you have done the ISO frame modification, then the cross bar keeps the two frame rails in position. It makes it easy to set the engine on the frame in the tractor.

Without the modification, the frame rails tend to roll making engine mounting difficult in the tractor.

 

[kostendorf]

I have done the ISO frame modification. I was thinking it would be easier to install nuts rather than trying to find the holes with bolts.

 

[bjamison]

Keith O - that's a good idea in principle. Heck if we use threaded studs on the engine head, then the oil pan might be OK too. I'm thinking I saw a Cummins diesel engine one time that used threaded studs for the oil pan. Screw the studs in the block and bolt on the oil pan. I like this idea - especially if you have a cast iron oil pan. I'd be curious to hear from anyone that can advise this is a bad idea - as I might try it myself.

 

[tmcilvain]

Hey All,
Anybody used/had any luck with the crank balancing kit available from Kirk Engines Inc.(above sponsor/advertiser)?
Rebuilding my new K321, am pulling the balancing gears per strong reccomendation and ran into his kit while parts shopping.

 

[kostendorf]

Richard Christensen,I was surfing search threads for hood latches and found your design and like it. Do you have dimensions on this or do you sell them?

 

[aaytay]

Terry-
I don't know who is strongly recommending that you put the balance-gears back in your engine, but I'd disagree with that opinion.

I have the Kirk Engine Balance Plate in a 14hp Kohler and it works great. Highly recommended, two thumbs up!

 

[rmcshane]

Art- Hes saying that hes pullingthe balance gears out of the engine.

 

[rchristensen]

Keith O. I haven't missed with the hood latches for a long time. It was a pretty simple design, one piece cut from some 1 x 2 inch square tubing at an angle, and the other piece formed from some 3/4 inch flat iron.

The problem was getting flat iron bent in the correct figure and it seemed like you could get it working good on one tractor and if you moved it to another tractor you had to reform the flat iron piece to get the exact point to stop the hood from hitting the grill and so it would stay upright without falling back if you had your hands or head under the hood.