Archive through February 20, 2012

[crlamb]

I purchased and installed an automobile tachometer. We have a K241 with a K301 block bored out .020 over. At idle speed how many r.p.m. should I see on the tach ? Other than the boring done because of cylinder wall wear, the tractor is stock...running at full throttle, what kind of r.p.m. should I see ? I wnat to try to determine if the tach is working correctly

 

[jchamberlin]

Charles Lamb: Generally speaking, Top No-Load speed should be at or near 3600 RPM if the governor and all linkages are set correctly. (I don't know about Kohlers, but B&S makes a big deal about the motor's application and their Top No-Load speed may vary with engine spec# from 3200 to 3600.)

I have a Tiny Tach installed on my 782 and the motor runs at about 3400 w/o a load and drops to 3200 with a load.

 

[nbextermueller]

Charles, I'm confused... How do you have a k241 with a k301 block .020 over? By your description you should have a .020 k301. K241 should have no part of it. Unless that's what your replacing.

 

[crlamb]

Nic Bextermueller:
I have one of those tractors that is a K241, but when building the engine they ran out of K241 blocks and built it with a K301 block. At least this is what I read, I believe on this forum

 

[crlamb]

Nic Bextermueller: After you told me about the Equus unit I went to O'Reillys and bought a "6088" Tach. I told the clerk that I wanted one for a single cylinder Kohler, but ended up with the "6088". I went home and installed it and it did not work, and found that it is for a 4-6-8 cylinder auto. I went to the internet again and found the one that you talked about that is for a single cylinder to an 8 cylinder engine "6068", with the button that you push to change from 1 to 8 cylinder. Put it on and I have not been able to get it to work. I read a post that said something about "shortening the wires" and I left the wires fairly long. Would the length of the wire make any difference ? Any suggestions that might be helpful ? I assume that the only wire that cannot be shortened is the one that is the "pickup wire", but could wire length be the problem ?

 

[crlamb]

Well, I must admit my stupidity. The problem was that I did not have a good connection to a power source. Once that was corrected, everything was fine. They say that everyone can make a mistake, but this one should not have happened. Oh well, I guess I proved myself to be human because most of us do make mistakes.

 

[nbextermueller]

Charles, congrats on the new tach!
Since you got it working I'll skip the tech part.

Now post up some pictures of the new go-fast goodie!

P.S. never trust an auto parts store clerk... Also go in with the part # you need for anything. But for good measure, I was unaware of the differing parts also. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[kwilliams]

Does anyone know what size endmill is needed to bore a Kohler K-series rod to use the bearing insert? I have a Bridgeport mill and some larger endmills but can't seem to find any info on what size the endmill needs to be.

Ken

 

[dclinansmith]

K. Williams, Brian Millers website said to use a shell reamer 1.625 Dia. with plenty of cutting oil. I did several rods for myself on my brothers Bridgeport using a boring head dry. You just have to be extra careful when adjusting it. Use a keyway cutter to make recesses for the insert tang. The insert numbers are Clevite 77 CB-279P or CB-279P Federal Mogul PN 9885CP or 9885CPA Note, Don't forget to drill oil hole in insert.

 

[kwilliams]

Great Thanks Dave. Thats what I was looking for. I did some pulling in the early 2000's then got into lawnmower racing until 2010 when I started having problems with my back and had to give it up. Now I'm ready to get back into a competitive sport and I'd like to biuld a stock 16 puller. I had looked at Brian's site and did not see the info. Thanks again

Ken

 

[dclinansmith]

K. Williams, I printed that info from his site a long time ago. I like to have things on paper, it's easier to reference what I need.

 

[kwilliams]

Dave I have another question about boring the rod for the bearing insert. How do you hold the rod in your mill?

 

[kwilliams]

Does anyone know if Scott Madson is still able to have cams ground and how to get intouch with him. I had one of the cams in a puller years ago and liked it. Now I'm looking at getting back into pulling again and would like to get another cam done.

Ken

 

[nbextermueller]

I don't know about Scott Madson, but check out this guy. His name might sound famiar:

" Welcome to Small Engine Cams.
My name is Tim Iskenderian. I am Ed Iskenderian's youngest son. My specialty is making custom racing camshafts for small engines."

Smallenginecams.com

I heard lots of great things....

 

[kwilliams]

I found Scott's number on the net and gave him a call. He said he is no longer doing cam regrinds. I looked at Tim's site and didn't see a cam profile that I think met my stock 16's needs. I'm going to give them a call and see what they offer. Vogel has a cam for it but its 179.00 dollars. Has anyone used their 375-Ch-4k cam?

 

[vthomley]

Kenneth - look at Kirk Engines at the top of this and every page! $75.00 for a performance cam !!! This is what I'm putting into my engine. At least send him an inquiry - the information he responded to me with was wonderful!

 

[cwalfield]

I'm putting a 122 together for pulling any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks

 

[rgoodman]

Chris, What class are you building it for?

 

[cwalfield]

Planning on just running stock haven't gotten around to weighing machine yet so not sure what weight class just yet

 

[cwalfield]

OK a quick question I've got a 122 with the creeper I was pulling in high the other day felt a pop now it wont move.driveshaft spins with motor n clutch all spiral pins are there machine barely had a load on it is there a spiral pin inside.the creeper.unit everything is good its.either in.the creeper unit or trans any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks