Hey guys, it's been a while since I've been here, but I need some help. I have a 1969 125 with a blower on. The wiring was a mess, but it worked, although it would not charge and the charge-meter was bouncing all over the place while running. I would have to jump it every time I wanted to blow. It got to the point where even jump-starting would not work, so I got a new S/G, after having the old one test bad. I didn't want to fry the new S/G, so I went through the wiring completely, using a Cub diagram. It is all right on now. The ign. switch was replaced before I got the tractor (lost key), and the new one is wired properly and works correctly. Starter solenoid tested and works properly. HOWEVER, there is a Echlin voltage regulator (automotive, I'm guessing) on it, but it appears to be wired correctly, however the markings on the tabs do totally match the diag. THE PROBLEM with the tractor is that now, as soon as I hook up the battery cables, the tractor starts to crank over, with the key off. Is the (automotive) regulator my problem? I assume it is. I cannot imagine it is internally the same as a Cub unit using a starter/generator. HELP! Thank you very much for your time. Newt
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Archive through February 20, 2011
- Thread starter eferguson
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Norm Bartee
You can`t take it apart like that ! Do you have the manual there with you? You have to take the two bolts out and remove the gear pump off 55 the front of the hydro. When you do that you will find a small gear 44 and a pin that goes through the shaft 8. Remove the pin and then the pump will come apart.some one who drew this up never included the pin in this drawing , But in parts look up it is listed with item 44 .Not much to it really .
You can`t take it apart like that ! Do you have the manual there with you? You have to take the two bolts out and remove the gear pump off 55 the front of the hydro. When you do that you will find a small gear 44 and a pin that goes through the shaft 8. Remove the pin and then the pump will come apart.some one who drew this up never included the pin in this drawing , But in parts look up it is listed with item 44 .Not much to it really .
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Norm,
Listen to Donald......but before you pull the charge pump, make sure you put a couple bolts back in the main case to keep everything together.
What ever you do, do not add horsepower......hydros should "fall" apart with no more resistance than the gasket "stick".
Listen to Donald......but before you pull the charge pump, make sure you put a couple bolts back in the main case to keep everything together.
What ever you do, do not add horsepower......hydros should "fall" apart with no more resistance than the gasket "stick".
Norm Bartee
One more thing ! when you put the pump back together if you look at the second picture you posted at 6:18 you will see a small pin sticking down from the top of the hydro in your picture. That pin must go in a hole in the Plate, Hyd Cylinder Block Valve 20.Make sure you align this all up before you bolt the hydro together. Good luck, I will check in the AM and see if you have any more questions. later Don T
One more thing ! when you put the pump back together if you look at the second picture you posted at 6:18 you will see a small pin sticking down from the top of the hydro in your picture. That pin must go in a hole in the Plate, Hyd Cylinder Block Valve 20.Make sure you align this all up before you bolt the hydro together. Good luck, I will check in the AM and see if you have any more questions. later Don T
Don T.
Is this the pin you're talking about? Guess I got in a hurry, I wanted to know what parts I needed so I could order them first thing in the morning. When you say manual, I assume you mean the Sauer Danfoss manual? Do you think I might have gotten anything out of alignment?
Is this the pin you're talking about? Guess I got in a hurry, I wanted to know what parts I needed so I could order them first thing in the morning. When you say manual, I assume you mean the Sauer Danfoss manual? Do you think I might have gotten anything out of alignment?
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Norm B. BEFORE removing the charge pump (as Donald T. said) take a picture or make a mark on one side of the part number 55. That way you will have correct orientation of the charge pump when reassembling.
Also... Donald T. is correct about the timing pin that your arrow points to. There should be a timing pin for each valve plate. And in your picture.... The picture shows the other cylinder block kit appears to be sticking to the valve plate. If you can then jiggle the kit a little to separate it from the valve plate so that you don't have it come out when you are lifting on the top piece. There is a possibility of the cylinder block kit and valve plate coming out with everything and then suddenly breaking free thus the possibility of causing damage.
One more thing. You don't need to worry about parts 13.14,15,16 & 17 coming apart on you. They are assembled as part of the block.
Finally ... Would you please take some nice close up pictures of the valve plates and post them? that way I can better explain the lead in grooves. ANY pics of the block kits or any pics that youo may think necessary and would help. I.E. Charge pump orientation from the top. The insides of the charge pump... timing pins... anything and don't think it would be a foolish or not worthy picture. I need to go to work. There ae a LOT of very knowledgeable people that will continue to help walk you through this.
Everyone have a beautiful day.
Also... Donald T. is correct about the timing pin that your arrow points to. There should be a timing pin for each valve plate. And in your picture.... The picture shows the other cylinder block kit appears to be sticking to the valve plate. If you can then jiggle the kit a little to separate it from the valve plate so that you don't have it come out when you are lifting on the top piece. There is a possibility of the cylinder block kit and valve plate coming out with everything and then suddenly breaking free thus the possibility of causing damage.
One more thing. You don't need to worry about parts 13.14,15,16 & 17 coming apart on you. They are assembled as part of the block.
Finally ... Would you please take some nice close up pictures of the valve plates and post them? that way I can better explain the lead in grooves. ANY pics of the block kits or any pics that youo may think necessary and would help. I.E. Charge pump orientation from the top. The insides of the charge pump... timing pins... anything and don't think it would be a foolish or not worthy picture. I need to go to work. There ae a LOT of very knowledgeable people that will continue to help walk you through this.
Everyone have a beautiful day.
Norm-
Here is the manual I have. It's quite informative.
Marlin-
This manual has pictures of the plates with the grooves and tells of their orientation.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/Sundstrand%2015%20Series%20Service%20Manual.pdf
I hope it helps.
Here is the manual I have. It's quite informative.
Marlin-
This manual has pictures of the plates with the grooves and tells of their orientation.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/Sundstrand%2015%20Series%20Service%20Manual.pdf
I hope it helps.
I`am out in my shop charging batteries and shop Cleon up.I moved a bunch of things not needed to my newer storage area. I will need room to paint soon. I`am also
looking for the point bracket for my 125 lol. I did put it somewhere lol.
Norm B
If you take that pump apart to replace the seal. on one side of the swash plate there is a two piece pin to hold the swash plate fast to the trunion arm. Not in some of the manuals ( ask me how I know that lol ) Have fun
Norm B
If you take that pump apart to replace the seal. on one side of the swash plate there is a two piece pin to hold the swash plate fast to the trunion arm. Not in some of the manuals ( ask me how I know that lol ) Have fun
Charlie, I think all the snow is in my neck of the woods. Here's a few photos I took yesterday starting in the morning before the snow started. The last of the 3 "snow photos" was taken early in the snow storm, the snow came down quite hard all evening. There was anywhere from about 6" to 18" of snow in the driveway. I didn't take any this morning as I was too rushed to get the driveway cleared out and then to work. I'll take some this evening. (BTW, the enclosed trailer is not mine. It belongs to a friend, I'm just storing it for him.)
And to keep this on topic, I found some tire tracks from my Cub Cadet Original that were frozen in the driveway from last fall.
And to keep this on topic, I found some tire tracks from my Cub Cadet Original that were frozen in the driveway from last fall.
I`am out in my shop charging batteries and shop Cleon up.I moved a bunch of things not needed to my newer storage area. I will need room to paint soon. I`am also
looking for the point bracket for my 125 lol. I did put it somewhere lol.
Norm B
If you take that pump apart to replace the seal. on one side of the swash plate there is a two piece pin to hold the swash plate fast to the trunion arm. Not in some of the manuals ( ask me how I know that lol ) Have fun
Norm B
If you take that pump apart to replace the seal. on one side of the swash plate there is a two piece pin to hold the swash plate fast to the trunion arm. Not in some of the manuals ( ask me how I know that lol ) Have fun
Marlin & Don,
Well, I think I ruined it. The cross pin made indentions in the plate for when I mistakenly tried to remove the housing. I didn't think I used much pressure but I guess it was enough. Is it salvagable? What can I do?
Well, I think I ruined it. The cross pin made indentions in the plate for when I mistakenly tried to remove the housing. I didn't think I used much pressure but I guess it was enough. Is it salvagable? What can I do?
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
is that a 14' tariler ? I want a dueal axel 14' for Cub tractors The singles will haul it but bounce to much.I like a smother ride . I`am looking here for a Cub Hauler ,As Frank c says I aint done yet lol,.
is that a 14' tariler ? I want a dueal axel 14' for Cub tractors The singles will haul it but bounce to much.I like a smother ride . I`am looking here for a Cub Hauler ,As Frank c says I aint done yet lol,.
Go with a 20 or 24 footer, you won't regret it!
Norm Bartee
You have put a score in the pump housing plate. There is nothing you can do now to fix that indent.The rest of the pump will be fine.A word of caution , to late , is to never force anything that you are not sure of!..
You have put a score in the pump housing plate. There is nothing you can do now to fix that indent.The rest of the pump will be fine.A word of caution , to late , is to never force anything that you are not sure of!..
Don, that is a single axle 6'x 14' trailer. The rear is a lift gate/ramp. The owner uses it for ATVs. It trailers really nice behind my Isuzu Rodeo. Yes my friend has let me use it a few times. I'm tempted to change the lock on the hitch so he can't take it back...
Charlie "Digger" Proctor
You are correct as to what I should buy, but I can only have fun with that and my diesel truck I have now. Your burb and that trailer must suck gass.Is it rated at 8000 load? I`am boming my Cummins to 345 rw HP and 645 torque for my better halfs trip we have planned. I just might show up inside the US for a few . Kraig,Ken, Denny,.oh and you !
You are correct as to what I should buy, but I can only have fun with that and my diesel truck I have now. Your burb and that trailer must suck gass.Is it rated at 8000 load? I`am boming my Cummins to 345 rw HP and 645 torque for my better halfs trip we have planned. I just might show up inside the US for a few . Kraig,Ken, Denny,.oh and you !
