-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through February 18, 2009
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
rvanmersbergen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2007
- Messages
- 154
- displayname
- Ray Van Mersbergen
Hi Strait, But of course I'm going to be at the Flywheelers. Same place row 11 stop by and say hi!
Matt S.
Not much problem with trash build up with the colter removed and running 8.50's with a 50# weight on the inside and 1 26# weight on the out side. The 120# of weight hanging off the front helped kept the front tires in the furrow, and on the ground.
Pulling a 10" Brinly plow.
Nick H.
The Parts Lookup Button does way more than give ya part numbers, It's got all kinds of neat pictures too.
I have seen guys add a thin strip of rubber/foam to those to keep from eatin on the paint.
The Parts Lookup Button does way more than give ya part numbers, It's got all kinds of neat pictures too.
I have seen guys add a thin strip of rubber/foam to those to keep from eatin on the paint.
I have yet to figure out how to use that Parts Lookup. It seems that that button requires the use of a model# and I don't know what to call my tractor other than an Original, and that always turns up "no matches found".
Can someone explain how that site is used?
Lets say I want to find the part# for the engine to Timed Deck on my '62 Original. What are the steps to find that info?
Can someone explain how that site is used?
Lets say I want to find the part# for the engine to Timed Deck on my '62 Original. What are the steps to find that info?
Brennan H.
The Original as we all call it, is actually just called a "Cadet". Try using that and everything pops right up.
Except for the Danco UD-6 creeper for it. For that you have to enter in UD-6 or Danco to get the parts breakdown.
The Original as we all call it, is actually just called a "Cadet". Try using that and everything pops right up.
Except for the Danco UD-6 creeper for it. For that you have to enter in UD-6 or Danco to get the parts breakdown.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Plowing:
Duals:
90% of the time they are weight, the other 10% of the time (deads, rough areas, etc.) they are very useful. Some of the pics below show an 8.50 Stone with a 6x12 Carlisle dual. The Stones are 1.5" taller to start with, so it's very likely that the dual will be high sided. As was stated below, the track width is so narrow compared to the furrow depth that duals really don't have a chance in firm soil (the light, great plowing soil below is the exception)....if you get behind a deep plowing 12" the dual is up in the air.
Tire width:
6x12, 8.50, 10.50, 26x12.....they all work and they all are much more dependant on WHO you are following at PD than any of their other own qualities.
6x12 following 12" plowing deep...fits in the furrow like a 4 lane highway, but you are likely not going to have the traction or clearance to not get high sided......
26x12 following 6x12 pulling 8" or 10" plow.....opposite, not nestled down in the furrow, garbage truck in a tight alley, plow not level, rough ride up on the previous furrow.....
10.50 following 10" plowing not set right....riding over clumps, obstructed furrow thats more like a pot hole infested road....
Point is, if you are plowing by yourself, always in your own furrow, you can optimize your set-up and plow in a predictable, repeatable manner......no matter what your tire size, etc. Plow days are great fun, but they are not like that....you are following a little bit of everything and you can't expect perfect results in those situations.......just don't blame the tires or plow...instead find someone who plows like your rig does and run with them. This is why you often see groups of 12" plows running together, or see people waiting at the headland for their "turn" to come up......they have found a system that works....
Weight:
More high than low. Not usually 2 weights past the rim on the furrow side, one to 2 more on the high side than low. More weight is better most of the time. Front weight is optional, but if your rig tends to pull the front end whit a well adjsuted plow, by all means add weight in front.
Trash:
The fresher the bean straw, the worse the trash problems...2x if it's rained in the last 24 hours. Narrow tires have a clearance advantage here, but spin down to a high center situation faster as well. Taller tires are a big help, 26x12 rubber offers extra width (clearance) and height (clearance), as do 8.50 Stones because of their increased height. 10.50 Titans seem to be at a small disadvantage because of their slightly shorter flat profile. Trash problems happen in 3 places, at the sleeve hitch pin (gotta keep it up off of the ground), under the rear end (usually after running over a pile of trash from a previous plow when plowing deep), and at the hitch/inner fender well (Cat 0 3 pts with 10.50 rubber are very bad for this, 10.50's in general can be, and 6x12, 8.50, and 26x12 are somewhat immune).
I'm considering adding a poly skid plate from the hydro filter to just behind the lower 3pt bracket on my plowing machines to help keep trash moving along freely.
Plows:
I personally think 12" plows do the best job, but they pull the hardest. 10" are second, and the 8" are OK, but not when running in big groups. the 12" plows respond to higher speeds and deeper depths better, IMHO.
Plow fixes. Trash clearance is a must...cut it and clear it. No rolling cutter is NOT the best trash clearance fix IMHO, a good cutter that gets it done without adding to the clearance problem IS... Fix the rolling cutter about 1/2" to land, move it forward, and notch it. Notched cutters will keep turning, mount trash, and saw it in 1/2 so it won't drag on the beam...trash cannot wrap the beam, that leads to a choked up plow sooner or later.
Keeping the sleeve hitch joint up off the ground (see my plow pics) is a big help. The 5/8" sleeve hitch pin protruding below the adapter will cause trash to drag and eventually choke up under the tractor leading to a high center situation.
A good land polish is also a must, and keeps everything flowing cleanly.
I'd like to add about 30# to the landside/frog of my 12" plow to help with penetration and allow for a flattened out point angle.....resulting in a better job of plowing in harder soils and less draft load.
In the end, it's about getting a good combo for your plow and tractor. 8" on a SGT is a rocky marriage, as is the opposite, but a good balanced set-up matched with other tractors at PD with similar set-ups leads to enjoyable plowing. Watch what works and what doesn't and work toward that.....and HAVE FUN!!!
Duals:
90% of the time they are weight, the other 10% of the time (deads, rough areas, etc.) they are very useful. Some of the pics below show an 8.50 Stone with a 6x12 Carlisle dual. The Stones are 1.5" taller to start with, so it's very likely that the dual will be high sided. As was stated below, the track width is so narrow compared to the furrow depth that duals really don't have a chance in firm soil (the light, great plowing soil below is the exception)....if you get behind a deep plowing 12" the dual is up in the air.
Tire width:
6x12, 8.50, 10.50, 26x12.....they all work and they all are much more dependant on WHO you are following at PD than any of their other own qualities.
6x12 following 12" plowing deep...fits in the furrow like a 4 lane highway, but you are likely not going to have the traction or clearance to not get high sided......
26x12 following 6x12 pulling 8" or 10" plow.....opposite, not nestled down in the furrow, garbage truck in a tight alley, plow not level, rough ride up on the previous furrow.....
10.50 following 10" plowing not set right....riding over clumps, obstructed furrow thats more like a pot hole infested road....
Point is, if you are plowing by yourself, always in your own furrow, you can optimize your set-up and plow in a predictable, repeatable manner......no matter what your tire size, etc. Plow days are great fun, but they are not like that....you are following a little bit of everything and you can't expect perfect results in those situations.......just don't blame the tires or plow...instead find someone who plows like your rig does and run with them. This is why you often see groups of 12" plows running together, or see people waiting at the headland for their "turn" to come up......they have found a system that works....
Weight:
More high than low. Not usually 2 weights past the rim on the furrow side, one to 2 more on the high side than low. More weight is better most of the time. Front weight is optional, but if your rig tends to pull the front end whit a well adjsuted plow, by all means add weight in front.
Trash:
The fresher the bean straw, the worse the trash problems...2x if it's rained in the last 24 hours. Narrow tires have a clearance advantage here, but spin down to a high center situation faster as well. Taller tires are a big help, 26x12 rubber offers extra width (clearance) and height (clearance), as do 8.50 Stones because of their increased height. 10.50 Titans seem to be at a small disadvantage because of their slightly shorter flat profile. Trash problems happen in 3 places, at the sleeve hitch pin (gotta keep it up off of the ground), under the rear end (usually after running over a pile of trash from a previous plow when plowing deep), and at the hitch/inner fender well (Cat 0 3 pts with 10.50 rubber are very bad for this, 10.50's in general can be, and 6x12, 8.50, and 26x12 are somewhat immune).
I'm considering adding a poly skid plate from the hydro filter to just behind the lower 3pt bracket on my plowing machines to help keep trash moving along freely.
Plows:
I personally think 12" plows do the best job, but they pull the hardest. 10" are second, and the 8" are OK, but not when running in big groups. the 12" plows respond to higher speeds and deeper depths better, IMHO.
Plow fixes. Trash clearance is a must...cut it and clear it. No rolling cutter is NOT the best trash clearance fix IMHO, a good cutter that gets it done without adding to the clearance problem IS... Fix the rolling cutter about 1/2" to land, move it forward, and notch it. Notched cutters will keep turning, mount trash, and saw it in 1/2 so it won't drag on the beam...trash cannot wrap the beam, that leads to a choked up plow sooner or later.
Keeping the sleeve hitch joint up off the ground (see my plow pics) is a big help. The 5/8" sleeve hitch pin protruding below the adapter will cause trash to drag and eventually choke up under the tractor leading to a high center situation.
A good land polish is also a must, and keeps everything flowing cleanly.
I'd like to add about 30# to the landside/frog of my 12" plow to help with penetration and allow for a flattened out point angle.....resulting in a better job of plowing in harder soils and less draft load.
In the end, it's about getting a good combo for your plow and tractor. 8" on a SGT is a rocky marriage, as is the opposite, but a good balanced set-up matched with other tractors at PD with similar set-ups leads to enjoyable plowing. Watch what works and what doesn't and work toward that.....and HAVE FUN!!!
I have not had any problem with trash buildup with this set up.
I have plowed under cornstalks, soybeans, and what have you from the garden without any problems.
Plenty of ground clearence is always helpfull.
These photos are from last spring, I always turn over the soil again in the spring befor planting.
I have plowed under cornstalks, soybeans, and what have you from the garden without any problems.
Plenty of ground clearence is always helpfull.
These photos are from last spring, I always turn over the soil again in the spring befor planting.
STEVE B. - Excellent write-up. I know somebody tried pulling a 1 bottom 16 inch pull-type plow with a CC. I didn't witness it personally but I heard it actually did a pretty good job.
Your comment about the 8", 10", & 12" plows is interesting. IH advanced plow technology the last few years they built plows almost more than the developement of the steel moldboard. The plow I always thought was most innovative was the 735 Vari-width plow. It was hydrauliclly adjustable on-the-go from 14" furrows to 22" wide furrows, automatic reset plow beams. The IH Chapter #4 PD Wyatt & I went to in Oconomowoc, WI about 6-7 yrs ago I got to ride along in the cab of a 5288 FWA pulling a 6-bottom 735. He hit a huge rock or tree root running about 5-6 mph plowing about 12-14" deep. Bottoms # 2,3, & 4 tripped and reset and went back to plowing in an instant. That ONE Tractor had about as much HP as ALL the tractors DAD ever owned while He farmed. I was speechless after two short rounds when I got out of the cab.
Your comment about slabs of dirt rolling back onto the furrow floor made Me chuckle. They're no big deal on a full size tractor with tires 5-6 feet tall but on a garden tractor they almost throw You out of the seat. It really helps to keep speed up when plowing, improves the rolling action of the dirt coming off the moldboard.
Your comment about the 8", 10", & 12" plows is interesting. IH advanced plow technology the last few years they built plows almost more than the developement of the steel moldboard. The plow I always thought was most innovative was the 735 Vari-width plow. It was hydrauliclly adjustable on-the-go from 14" furrows to 22" wide furrows, automatic reset plow beams. The IH Chapter #4 PD Wyatt & I went to in Oconomowoc, WI about 6-7 yrs ago I got to ride along in the cab of a 5288 FWA pulling a 6-bottom 735. He hit a huge rock or tree root running about 5-6 mph plowing about 12-14" deep. Bottoms # 2,3, & 4 tripped and reset and went back to plowing in an instant. That ONE Tractor had about as much HP as ALL the tractors DAD ever owned while He farmed. I was speechless after two short rounds when I got out of the cab.
Your comment about slabs of dirt rolling back onto the furrow floor made Me chuckle. They're no big deal on a full size tractor with tires 5-6 feet tall but on a garden tractor they almost throw You out of the seat. It really helps to keep speed up when plowing, improves the rolling action of the dirt coming off the moldboard.
fbainbridge
Active member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2006
- Messages
- 27
- displayname
- Fred Bainbridge
I just bought a starter drive for my 1650 from cg,the drive gear is larger in diameter tha the orignal gear and will not work.I called ken and he is going to check with kohler. Any of you guys have the answer?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Steve B.-
That's an EXCELLENT collection of info you posted there. I vote that it be added to the FAQ somehow. I really want to get a new set of tires, but I don't know what I want. After reading your post, I'm wondering if I should save up for a set of 8.50 Firestones instead of getting 10.50 Tru-Powers or Super Lugs.
I found a place that has the 'stones for a fairly reasonable price (or at least I think so
)
http://www.smalltires.com/store.cfm...=da3bdecf-8106-4084-885a-f36b5eed6e13&Size=12
If you guys had to choose between these and Tru-Powers or Super Lugs, what would you choose?
That's an EXCELLENT collection of info you posted there. I vote that it be added to the FAQ somehow. I really want to get a new set of tires, but I don't know what I want. After reading your post, I'm wondering if I should save up for a set of 8.50 Firestones instead of getting 10.50 Tru-Powers or Super Lugs.
I found a place that has the 'stones for a fairly reasonable price (or at least I think so
http://www.smalltires.com/store.cfm...=da3bdecf-8106-4084-885a-f36b5eed6e13&Size=12
If you guys had to choose between these and Tru-Powers or Super Lugs, what would you choose?
