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Archive through February 16, 2017

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dschwandt

Well-known member
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5,475
Location
Eastern Iowa
displayname
David Schwandt
Part #6

I must have the wrong PTO for there were 2 flat springs instead of the one w/the legs pictured here.

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Number 6 is as described in my last post,
your pto if it has the tipples uses the two spring setup.
 
I'll look again tomorrow before work. It does appear like Lewis said, I'll try and get the outside measurement
 
David, Earl, you won't really see the spacer when the PTO engagement lever is in place. It isn't a spacer in that it "spaces" the lever out from the pedestal, it is a spacer in that is spaces the bolt out so that it doesn't tighten down on the lever but on the spacer. Think of it as more of a bushing that the lever pivots on. Hopefully that makes sense. Also, the drawing is WAY out of scale. The spacer fits inside the hole at the bottom of the lever. Note the size of the bottom hole in this photo, lever is hanging upside down.
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Now envision a spacer that fits inside the hole and is slightly longer than the lever is thick. The spacer will have a hole with an ID slightly larger than 3/8" to allow a 3/8" bolt to fit through it. Hopefully this all makes sense.
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Earl, I like that cab you have on your 104!
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Kraig, anyone, need help resizing photos to post. My pics are in windows 10 Edge. I know it's been discussed before so maybe a link to that. Thanks

David
 
David, I use VuePrint to resize image files. It's super easy to use and it's free. Once you have it installed open the image you wish to resize, then click on "File" then select "Resize..." from the dropdown menu. Then make sure the "Preserve aspect ratio" is checked then enter in a new width for the image try 600 first and then do a "File save as..." and edit the file name so that you do not over write the original file. Then check the file size and see if it's small enough to post.
 
Craig, anyone have one that could get some measurements? Shound be a snap to make for anyone w/a lathe.

What would the spring have been used for then?? I realize the note in the parts book says not used.

I would think it would be to keep pressure on the handle so it wouldn't rattle around and stay snug against the detents, but then it may have caused the bolt/screw that secures it to stick out far enough it interfere w/the manual lift handle?? The bolt, at 1.5" long, is certainly long enough to accommodate a short spring and still leave room for a jam nut on the inside of the frame hump..
I did find that a short piece of clutch return spring will compress and serve as a spacer.
 
David, I looked for one last night to take photos and dimensions off of for you. I know I have one from the #1 125 that I have apart for refurbishing I just couldn't find where I carefully hid it from myself...
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I think the spring was to keep it from flopping around but was determined not to be needed as there is tension on the lever from the throw out spring on the PTO.
 

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Try a 3/8" pipe nipple or the Hillman isle at the hardware store for that spacer/bushing......I bet you can fix it right up with one of those options......
 
Since it's Friday, and Steve mentioned the famous (or infamous, depending on your luck) John Hillman fastener company; the subject of stainless fasteners comes up now and again. This is usually met with an overwhelming "not hardware store stainless bolt" chorus.

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Here's the "not from the hardware store" bolt that would be preferred (that is, if you must). Proper stainless bolts for machinery will be marked with an ASTM F593 stamp. (handy chart - HERE) The typical Fastenal fare will get you a F593C bolt that has the tensile strength of about a grade 5 bolt but with the hardness of a grade 8.

When to use a stainless bolt?
-When the bolt will not be painted. (stainless steel has an oxide layer that doesn't lend itself to paint well at all. Paint will adhere, but not for long - better to have paint under the bolt than just around it)
-Where the bolt will be in contact with anything other than aluminum. (stainless and aluminum create a electrolosis reaction that will seize them in a short time and bubble any nearby paint)
-When you're using a thread sealer or corrosion preventative coating (like ECK stainless has an innate ability to gall threads, and with the rockwell hardness of the material will typically put you in the situation of breaking the head off a galled fastener. Heat is rarely useful in extracting stainless bolts. If you must drill them, low drill bit speed (painfully slow) will be key.
 

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General Contractor got a new "toy",,,
Now they don't have to climb scaffold to check on Something or if they just want to have a look,,,,

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Ironically, we just started a pilot program today at work to use drones to do site surveys for engineering work. It's like having Google Earth that zooms in to 250' above the const. site with full resolution.......very useful, as are the wide pan shots from all four sides from that height.
 
.....and its 64 deg outside in central IL.......who'd thunk it????
 
Kraig,

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Or Maybe something a lil more like THIS,

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Mr Plow,

SW Ohio,,


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When battery technology get's even better, and drones are controlled by an IP address via cell tower/satellite,,,,,

Watch Out!!!!!!

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The snow depth is down to 26" from 46" 3 days ago.
A couple more days like this and the ground will bare.
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