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Archive through February 16, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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hydroharry

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 22, 2007
Messages
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Harry Bursell
Donald T - looking good there. I'm not an engineer but one thing you might want to consider is using a slightly larger washer on the studs that hold the heat shield. The shields almost always begin to crack at the stud hole locations and the crack creeps across the shield, I think from vibration or maybe stress and heat. I'm not generally one for "improving" original design, but the larger washer isn't really visible so no one may really know (except those reading this).

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
 
KRAIG - I wanted to do the Killer Kohler forged Alcoa rod upgrade with a Clevite 77 bearing insert in the rod for the K241 but it looks like the K241 Rod is different than a K301/321/341 so I'll probably use the Magnum parts also.

I really wanted to keep the 70 for a mowing tractor, the slower 2nd gear is a great mowing speed, but that doesn't look like it will happen.

I'll maybe look for a nice 149 & 44A deck someday. But the 982 & 72 will have to do for this summer.
 
Don T.-

Yeah, I know...the weather has not been cooperating at all. Hopefully I'll be able to get out and use it sometime in March or April. I promise I'll post pictures and/or video when I do use it
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A PTO question? Do I need to be sure I rebuild a pto for a narrow frame for my 125 . What is the difference in the wide frame PTO`s and the Narrow frame. I have a kit here 759-3489 ? any help would be great. Thanks Don T
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Don T.
The 3489 kit is fine as long as the PTO on your 125 has the nubbins sticking up to hold the 2 springs in place.
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DON - If your PTO was workng fine before the rebuild it should work fine afterwards.

I didn't rebuild my PTO when I built my K321 and it's survived so far. I'm on Mule Drive belt #2 or maybe it's #3.... They don't seem to last as long now for some reason....
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Thanks Charlie , I did find the one you posted.

Denny
these PTO`s need a rebuild and I have had the parts here for awhile.The 125 will have all rebuilt running gear.The spring looked rusty and well the clutch part was broken. Might as well rebuild two so I have a spare.

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one 11 mil wrench is now ground down and will go in my PTO parts box lol.
 
Charlie "Digger" Proctor

I have both gauges here ,thanks to you ! but what one is for this pto on my 125. Thanks Don T

I think I might have to mark them !

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adjust and install next !
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or just use it with three threads showing ?
 
DON - I'm pretty sure those thin jam nuts are 7/16ths INCH.... But 11 mm is close.

That's what you get when you buy stuff made in a backwards country like the US of A, one of the last THREE countries on the planet that hasn't adopted the Metric system.

We've sure done well at adopting the metric system here.... All the blue prints for every part I've ever bought for the last 30 yrs has had metric dimensions added, but you still can't Buy steel sheet/plate from stock rolled to a metric thickness. It's "SPECIAL".... so the service centers can charge more.
 
Dennis Frisk

All I had to do was get out the flat file and give that 11 mil a few rubs.Those wrenches were free when you bought gas years ago , I have a box of mixed sizes that I keep for special uses. I had no problem putting that 11 mil against my grinder to get it thin to fit those two nuts on the PTO. I put the wrench in my PTO parts box for future use.

I now have an 18 wat led flood light on the fibreglass pole in my yard to replace the 175 wat flood. that little led flood gives almost as much light as the 175 wat flood did. I hope to save some money for more Cub parts lol.
 
Harry, au contraire, I think you do have a gift. If nothing else, you are a "moderator" in the truest sense of the word: you "moderate" the discussion on the forum. It is good to see you posting so frequently these days, you add so much.

I also think I'm going to have to post my experience of "unconfuguliating" the wiring/connections on the 782 SN 714899 because I don't think anyone grasped the true implications of my last post. I've had one reviewer point out a few inaccuracies in what I've prepared thus far, but after correcting those, I guess I'll go ahead and post my experiences and clarify matters by responding to questions and comments.

It really did take me two years to figure it out; but knowing what I know now, it would only take me 15 minutes to diagnose the same problem on someone else's machine.

Please note, I would NEVER have been able to figure it out if it were not for the resources available on this forum, namely, the wiring diagrams.
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Don T

The top one is for a nf.
The bottom one is for the pto you show in your pic,which is for a wide frame.
I have seen many PTO's for a nf with wide frame pto springs on it and visa versa,those crazy p.o.'s
 
Hi everyone
New to the site and have a question. I have a chance to buy a 149 hydro. I do not know anything about them. Not sure if its a good deal or not. Will in close pictures. I do not know the year and right now the owner cant start it. But says it runs ok. Any input would be appreciated. The owner wants 500 for it.

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235509.jpg
 
David James,
They are very solid working tractors when fixed up and not too many expensive parts in comparison to any other model. Very nice model if you need a tractor to use and get some real work done.
As for the not running, I wouldn't give him close to $500 not running. I've probably bought 20 Cubs that "run good" but can't start and they all end up having some sort of issue. If he'd get it running, might be worth the price given its a 149, but not running I'd have to think hard before paying half of that unless you can hear it before buying. Just my .02 on value.

I will say this much based on the pics. It has a newer repro toolbox, newer seat, and crazy looking rear lights thrown on it. Aside from the toolbox, they aren't my favorite mods but they do show that regular care was taken of it and the owner cared about it enough to spend some time on it. That would usually mean most small issues were fixed as they occured and you won't have 20 things to fix due to neglect.
 
David J, I'll only ad that, money wise, it also has the older style stamped steel deck with runners instead of wheels.
 
Dave Ross
Is the deck a good thing or not so good. Also there is suppose to be a snow blade for it but I haven't seen it yet.
 
David James - possibly new to you 149? Lets see, lets see, lets see.... I agree with comments by Kevin and Dave but we're not really supposed to discuss price and value on this Forum. As I've found over time and various places I've lived and know people, the market prices can vary widely. Generally I can say in Ohio and much of the midwest, market prices seem to be lower than on the east coast. I think this is primarily do to quantities available in these locations. In view of this I think Kevin's general discussion is right on, even with the addition of a snow blade. If it isn't a running unit who knows what might be wrong. I will address what I can see based on the pictures but most of the information will be in another post due to size limits on this site. As noted the mowing deck is an older style which I believe is generally a little heavier steel but not necessarily any better or worse than the newer style also seen with this same tractor. I can't see the steel runners on the deck to well but I'd make sure they are still in tact and not wore thru on the bottom, or nearly wore thru.
I noticed the 149 decal on one side of the dash seems to be gone. Since we know the unit is a wide frame hydrostatic there is no question of it being of the xx9 series. I would have a look at the tag on the side of the engine to make sure it does identify the engine as a K321A or K321AS which is a 14hp and confirms the tractor is a 149 (unless someone switched the engine block or the flywheel shroud). I noticed the steering column is painted a brighter yellow than the rest of the tractor. Most likely the steering box has been worked over to address the common problem with play. If the steering has about 2 inches of play it may need rework again, or could require new ball joints on the steering drag link and tie rods. I noticed the hydro release lever pointing straight down (the lever is on the right side of the center frame cover which is between your legs as you sit on the tractor). This is another common problem but not generally a bid issue and not a costly repair. It just means it's more difficult to roll the tractor without the engine running - which isn't often necessary if the engine will run.

More to follow in another post.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
 
David James - more on the possible new to you 149:
It appears the rear tires were changed to ag style from the stock turf style and non-IH wheel weights are added. The tires also appear to be 8.5" wide, while the stock tires for a 149 would be 10.5" wide. Again, no real big deal - except narrow ag tires with wheel weights provide better traction in snow, but are not ideal for lawn mowing. The wheel weights could be removed to help provide more flotation on grass but the ag treads will likely leave marks or actually dig into wet grass/turf. I notice the front tires are mis-matched and upon measuring you may find actual height and width not to be the same or what is marked on the tires. This makes leveling the mowing deck more difficult. The quick attach sub-frame mule drive appears a little askew at the front. This could mean one of the cross rods is broken or bent or it's just not latched correctly. Repair isn't real costly but adds to the list. One nice thing I notice is the hydraulic lift lever appears vertical. They are somewhat prone to bending a little roll pin inside the dash area resulting in the lever falling slightly forward or back (usually about an inch or so either direction). This doesn't result in operational failure of the lift, but is one of the more difficult and time consuming repairs do to it's location inside the dash. If it's already been repaired it's a plus. The decal on the front grill looks to have some bright red in the IH. If this is the original "metal" decal it's nice to see this and would indicate someone has pride and taken some care of the tractor. The plastic grills are somewhat prone to warping from the muffler heat and glue for the decal emblem fails allowing it to fall off. The seat looks a little odd to me because of it's height, but with replacement costs $100 or more you often see changes made, and it could be quite comfortable no matter the look. Overall appearance of the tractor isn't bad and doesn't show alot of rust - I would guess its been kept inside. It just looks a little tired, but not bad for a 40+ year old tractor. Based on what I can see of the dash decal to the hood decal alignment I think the hood support that's bolted to the dash is allowing the hood to lower to much and maybe cracking away the fiberglass dash. Again, not a big deal to repair but takes time. Can't tell awhole lot more about the unit without the engine running. Hydro tractors of this age are prone to a hydro creep or jump unless a trunion repair has been done. Not costly if done yourself but time conmsuming. I don't see blackening from exhaust around the hood or side of the grill housing where the muffler sticks out. This might mean the engine had been running good and doesn't burn oil - but unless you can run the engine and look for exhaust smoke you can't tell for any certainty. Also, without the engine running you can't tell if the starter/generator charging system is operating correctly, or if the PTO clutch which engages the mowing deck is operating properly. Repair of these items could be more costly. If the owner wants to sell the unit anywhere close to his asking price he needs to get the engine running - it should start right up, and run and drive good, but even then I'd probably still reduce the 1st digit of his price by 1. And the price without the engine running would be a reduction of the first digit by 3, or at most what Kevin suggested 1/2 his price. There are just to many unknowns for a non-running tractor around 40 years old. If the engine were to have a broken rod, a basic overhaul will cost at least $500+ by a local knowledgeable person, and in a shop probably $1000 or more. If you're really handy and can do it yourself you probably know the parts and machining would cost $200-$300+ depending on what's necessary. Even if the engine does run it could well be close to needing an overhaul, or engine exchange from another tractor. Overall it looks to me like a good restoration candidate if you want to go thru it top to bottom. I think you could restore it for $2k or more and use it 20 years, and then sell it as an antique if you don't restore it again. For myself I'd certainly do this before I went and spent $2k on a brand new tractor and then ended up selling it for scrap 10 years from now. For me there is nothing more satisfying than restoring one of these units, learning it inside and out. It becomes a real part of you - you will know this machine, how it works, what you can do with it, how well its designed and built, and have something that lasts nearly a life time (well if you go thru it again)and then some.

Hope this may help you with your decision, and/or working something out with the owner.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
 
Wow, thanks guys for the info.
Hydroharry, Thanks for the detail. I now know I will have to be able to start it and drive it. I kinda still would like to have it but not the way it sits and not for 500
Like I said thanks guys.
David
 
David James

I have a 149 and it is a great working tractor. For that money I would buy it in a second. all I would do is spin the engine by hand to see that it has no broken parts. Any problems it might have you have found the site that will help you get that 149 running and working, Parts are easy to get from our sponsors. I`am sure Charlie at
http://www.ccspecialties.org/ would be happy to supply all your parts needs. Manuals are available at the bottom of the main page for some good reading.There is one problem (it is hard just to have just one Cub cadet). Later Don T
 

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