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Archive through February 15, 2013
- Thread starter fcurrier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Don T,
Didn't know you had the points saver. I've been wanting to try one out on my 125 loader. I don't know much about them, but have read they are high quality and reliable. It's possible there is a problem there, but doubtful. As another member pointed out, black smoke is usually a carb problem, but can be caused by a incomplete fuel burn due to ignition problems. If you have rebuilt / clean carb, did you check the float level. If its too high, that can cause problems
Didn't know you had the points saver. I've been wanting to try one out on my 125 loader. I don't know much about them, but have read they are high quality and reliable. It's possible there is a problem there, but doubtful. As another member pointed out, black smoke is usually a carb problem, but can be caused by a incomplete fuel burn due to ignition problems. If you have rebuilt / clean carb, did you check the float level. If its too high, that can cause problems
fcurrier
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- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Hydro H. and all:
"Additional copies of this book may be obtained from:
Tractor Shop P.O. Box 95 Bee, NE 68314-0095
Website: www.tractorshop.com "
Gotta go, now. The Copyright police are knocking on the door.
Under Edit: Hey, the updated version is on sale!
"Additional copies of this book may be obtained from:
Tractor Shop P.O. Box 95 Bee, NE 68314-0095
Website: www.tractorshop.com "
Gotta go, now. The Copyright police are knocking on the door.
Under Edit: Hey, the updated version is on sale!
Ok, you guys have forced me to reconsider. My greatest handicap is I'm a cheap ole swamp yankee and the Hydros are higher priced than the 3-speeds. (And far fewer for sale) I found three for sale in the state and one that's reasonably priced. (149 with plow, chains, & deck for $900) I'll keep you posted and will probably have many stupid questions in the weeks to come. Gawd, I can't wait for the grass to start growin'! Thanx, Dave
DAVID H. - There's still a LOT of people here that will tell you that a gear drive, preferably the 122, would make a great tractor for mowing a half acre and ANY other yard work you might ever want to do. I'm not a big fan of the quiet-line tractors like the 1000. And the two extra HP of the 122 would be a benefit.
For 90% of the work a typical home owner does it makes NO difference whether you have a GD or a hydro. The remaining 10% is evenly divided between whether a GD or hydro is best. If you run a snow blower in deep snow or a roto-tiller a hydro is best. If you pull a plow, disk, or other heavy draft implement or a broadcast sprayer or fertilizer spreader the GD is best. Mowing, pushing a snow blade, general pulling a cart around for yard work, etc either one works but I use a GD if possible. One distinct advantage of the GD's is that when you shift to neutral on level ground, there's an excellent chance your CC will remain where you parked it. An older hydro tractor is prone to have wear in the speed control linkage which makes getting the "hydro creep" adjusted out difficult and they sometimes like to sneak away from where you left them unless you shut them off and set the brakes. Parking a GD is as simple as shutting the engine off and shifting into 1st gear, even on some steeper slopes.
If I had to thin my herd down to only one tractor, it would be a GD. If I had two tractors it'd be one of each.
For 90% of the work a typical home owner does it makes NO difference whether you have a GD or a hydro. The remaining 10% is evenly divided between whether a GD or hydro is best. If you run a snow blower in deep snow or a roto-tiller a hydro is best. If you pull a plow, disk, or other heavy draft implement or a broadcast sprayer or fertilizer spreader the GD is best. Mowing, pushing a snow blade, general pulling a cart around for yard work, etc either one works but I use a GD if possible. One distinct advantage of the GD's is that when you shift to neutral on level ground, there's an excellent chance your CC will remain where you parked it. An older hydro tractor is prone to have wear in the speed control linkage which makes getting the "hydro creep" adjusted out difficult and they sometimes like to sneak away from where you left them unless you shut them off and set the brakes. Parking a GD is as simple as shutting the engine off and shifting into 1st gear, even on some steeper slopes.
If I had to thin my herd down to only one tractor, it would be a GD. If I had two tractors it'd be one of each.
Dennis Frisk
I have been itching to make a high hp GD here and with my latest tractors I got a tractor with a creeper a GD that has no engine ,It had a blown 10 hp. I have a 14 hp here that I think should work nice and I think I will give it a try.The tractor was taken all apart for painting by the PO and
could be painted and the put back together. I do have a good running 10 hp I could use and I hope that base pan will bolt up to he 14 .???
Frank ; I have that book in my shop and like to pick it up and reread it. I think I have a few of those . I also have an old Kawasaki motorcycle book and an AMF HD manual that I should put in the sale section and get them to some one who could use them.
A question that I must ask ; will the base pan on a 14 hp have the correct pan to bolt into a narrow frame ? And do I need a stronger spring for the drive shaft or will a stock spring do the job behind a 14 hp .
Out in my shop today for more tractor time. spring is coming and I have lots to do.
I have been itching to make a high hp GD here and with my latest tractors I got a tractor with a creeper a GD that has no engine ,It had a blown 10 hp. I have a 14 hp here that I think should work nice and I think I will give it a try.The tractor was taken all apart for painting by the PO and
could be painted and the put back together. I do have a good running 10 hp I could use and I hope that base pan will bolt up to he 14 .???
Frank ; I have that book in my shop and like to pick it up and reread it. I think I have a few of those . I also have an old Kawasaki motorcycle book and an AMF HD manual that I should put in the sale section and get them to some one who could use them.
A question that I must ask ; will the base pan on a 14 hp have the correct pan to bolt into a narrow frame ? And do I need a stronger spring for the drive shaft or will a stock spring do the job behind a 14 hp .
Out in my shop today for more tractor time. spring is coming and I have lots to do.
hey jeff.....just read ur post.....i have absolutely no idea when the old girl was born. originally i only "borrowed" her cuz i needed the loader.....i have of course now fallen in love with her. i joined here so i could find out her history and get sum much needed info on the finer points of loving a cub
I'm <u>again</u> agree with Dennis. The Cub Cadet 122 has the power you need and is slightly more nimble that the 800-1000-1200. Add a creeper and a helper spring and you pretty have it all. The thing I like best about the 122 is that they are almost bullet proof!
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Terry D. About removing the serial number tag. I've never done it personally although I'm sure some have done it that post on here. My experience with the little plugs that hold them on is that they are shaped with a little twist to them that helps secure them solidly in place. VERY careful drilling with a very small drill bit to initially create the hole to "easy out" them. They are meant to spirol in clock-wise so if you can get a slightly larger counter clock-wise drill bit if an easy out is unavailable to help remove the rest of the old spirol plug. Then go to a hardward store which I doubt will have those types of plugs but still try and get new ones. Fastenal may have them. I think that I have some in the garage someplace. When installing the new spirol plugs be sure to use the permanent type Locktite.
Frank C. Are those the second edition copies or the more "rarer" ones where in the acknowledgements they spelled my last name wrong?
Frank C. Are those the second edition copies or the more "rarer" ones where in the acknowledgements they spelled my last name wrong?
DON - The 10 HP pan will probably bolt up to the 14 HP block if they're all CC spec engine parts but the engine will not run. The 10 HP pan should be a flat bottom pan and the oil flinging finger on the rod cap will hit the bottom of the 10 HP pan. You can cut the finger off but it would be really short and I'm not sure how that would work. The 12, 14, & 16 HP engines have 3-1/4" stroke, and the deep sump pans, the 10's only 2-7/8" stroke and a flat bottom pan.
If the tractor chassis is a NF, the 14 HP engine is too wide across the blower housing to fit in the NF. You'll either have to flare the frame like a 147 or install a smaller dia. flywheel, blower backing plate and cooling shroud from a 10 or 12 HP engine.
If the tractor is a WF, forget you ever read the above paragraph.
I wouldn't go over-board with the clutch. Stock parts should work fine. If you go to a stiff after-market pressure spring it gets really hard on the throw-out bearing at $50 each, plus makes the clutch so hard to push in. MWSC makes a piece to weld onto the clutch T/O lever but that throws the geometry of the clutch linkage out out of wack for disengaging the clutch and engaging the brake. For a working tractor good flat pressure plates, stock clutch spring & friction disk work fine even with lugged tires and a reasonably heavily weighted tractor.
Have to agree that having a LOT of HP in a GD makes for a great tractor. Swapping the K241 into my 72 28 yrs ago made it a much more useful tractor, and swapping the K321 into it 6-7 yrs ago just made it better. It's now over double it's factory HP, and over doubled it's usefulness.
TOM - Yep, mere fact that the 122's are 46 to 48 yrs old now says a LOT about how they were built. Pretty cheap and easy to keep them running over the long haul too.
If the tractor chassis is a NF, the 14 HP engine is too wide across the blower housing to fit in the NF. You'll either have to flare the frame like a 147 or install a smaller dia. flywheel, blower backing plate and cooling shroud from a 10 or 12 HP engine.
If the tractor is a WF, forget you ever read the above paragraph.
I wouldn't go over-board with the clutch. Stock parts should work fine. If you go to a stiff after-market pressure spring it gets really hard on the throw-out bearing at $50 each, plus makes the clutch so hard to push in. MWSC makes a piece to weld onto the clutch T/O lever but that throws the geometry of the clutch linkage out out of wack for disengaging the clutch and engaging the brake. For a working tractor good flat pressure plates, stock clutch spring & friction disk work fine even with lugged tires and a reasonably heavily weighted tractor.
Have to agree that having a LOT of HP in a GD makes for a great tractor. Swapping the K241 into my 72 28 yrs ago made it a much more useful tractor, and swapping the K321 into it 6-7 yrs ago just made it better. It's now over double it's factory HP, and over doubled it's usefulness.
TOM - Yep, mere fact that the 122's are 46 to 48 yrs old now says a LOT about how they were built. Pretty cheap and easy to keep them running over the long haul too.
Terry D., as concerns the serial number tag, we had some axles from Eaton we needed to change the serial number tag on. Eaton sent us the tags and the plugs and told us to hit the plug with a hammer to attach it. We never could get one to stay properly. They had a tool they did it with and they brought it down to the plant after our failures, but it was made to work on an uninstalled axle and I think they finally just glued them on. The plugs were just as Marlin described them. Perhaps you could carefully remove the tag and using just the head of the plug glue or epoxy the tag on, as I am sure you know the tags are a really soft metal and bend easily whereas the plugs are much harder.
TERRY, MARLIN, LARRY - I'm not a big fan of removing a serial number plate for ANY reason. BUT, the rivets are available. The sponsors above may have them available, but if not, you can get them here, http://antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com/tractor/Farmall-Serial-Number-Plate
Does anyone here happen to know what size the hole is in the main jet on a 12 hp kohler I cant find anything about it in my books. Also for those who may be interested, I know some were asking about them, I just installed one of Kirks Pointsaver modules and it works great my little tractor starts up much quicker now than it ever has before. Another question, does anyone have an hourmeter for sale? I need one for a QL mine quit working.
)Well it turns out that I have a 122 here and the 149 engine will not fit in that tractor. so I think my spare 10 will go into it. I might have to build another 12 hp for that tractor. But the 10 can be used for now.
- Joined
- May 9, 2008
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- displayname
- Thurman Swafford
Frank A. Currier: If serial # 506737 is the correct number for the first 169 I guess i own it. I bought it a an estate auction about 5 yrs. ago.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Ok Guys - I'm going back to the "GREAT TAIL LIGHT LENS DEBATE" of 2012. Due to the great assistance of another Cub Cadet Collector, who shall currently remain anonymus, the correct original lens and lens number for the 1x8/1x9 series is "NOW RESOLVED". I knew the last 2 digits of all the lenses could not be "75" and be correct for tractors built in 1974 and earlier. Below are 2 pics of the early correct lens "REFLECT-O-LITE 378 SAE-P1-A-70". I'll go so far as to say that all of you with number 378 SAE-P2-A-75 have replacement lenses if your tractor was built before 1975 when this lens was certified. All 100 Point Collectors (and the 110 point collectors like me) need to be on the look out for this correct lense.
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Thurman S - that is just absolutely terrific for you to have the very first production 169. Can you post some pictures of your 169 and the serial number tag on the side of the frame. Geez, I'd sure like to see what the "Very First 169" looks like. (Can you check the tail light lens numbers to see if they match the message below?)
