Archive through February 13, 2013

[rbeem]

I'm tuned into this AQS swap as well. I have a tired engine in my 149 and good engine in my tired 1450.
I'm putting a loader tractor together and a solid mounted engine on my "must have" list.

 

[stanner]

This is an AQS egine with 149 accoutrements attached, no issues

 

[thoffman]

More in/pix on the AQS please..........

 

[sblunier]

AQS in 149......they drop right in and if you use the electric PTO clutch and bendix starter, all you have to change over is the muffler and some of the wiring (charging systems are different). You could also swap out the lower grill housing on the 149 for a QL version and run the whole muffler box.

Ryan Mull did this exact mod on a 14hp in his plowing tractor way back when (one of the first WFM PD's in WI). I had it about 90% complete, including converting to the 149 air cleaner set up (welded hole in blower housing shut) for a project, but changed directions and sold the project motor.

 

[bjamison]

Keith O - can't give you a time on how long it takes to remove a QL engine in total, my 1650 already had the front grill and hood removed, gas tank was out of it, everything was unhooked - except the ISO mounts and the engine bolted to them.

I did it the hard way - not knowing any better and pulled the engine with the engine cradle attached. To do this, I just tilted the engine forward and lifted it out.

For me, the pain in the arse was doing the cradle mod. The first try, the welder didn't get it right. Second time - with a different set of engine rails looks good. I think with this cradle mod, I've got a long term solution to the problematic isolators.

To answer your question to the extent I can, I spent maybe an hour taking the engine out.

 

[sblunier]

 

[bwittman]

Keith,

It really doesn't take all that long to pull the engine from a Quietline. Along with your markers, bags boxes, etc., you should also have a pair of short jack stands a small jack and something that you can use to lift the engine and move it out of the way. I used a Come-A-Long and, once lifted from the tractor, set the engine on my piano dolly and rolled out of the way. I needed some wood blocking to make that happen. You also need a couple of 9/16", 1/2" and 7/16" combination wrenches, a good socket set with these sizes in it, a good flat screw driver, pliers and other tools that you won't think about until you need them. I hope your engine has a lifting eye mounted to it.

If you follow the steps in the service manual in order, it won't take that long to get the controls removed, unhook the throttle, choke rods and ignition wires, remove the hood and front grill section, and firewall/gas tank. You will have some hydraulic issues to deal with and you will have to pull the drive shaft.

I can't emphasize enough to take things in order from the IH Service Manual, found in the manual section of this forum. It is laid out very well.

From there, you need to get the modification done to the engine/frame mounting rails. Instructions for this are in Charlie's FAQs. I had a welding shop do mine, and that took a couple of days.

While you have the engine out, you may want to tighten the front axle carrier to improve your steering, if it needs it.

I figured four hours to fix the steering. I also overhauled the steering box, but really didn't need to do it.

I would think that eight to ten hours to remove the engine, pull the engine mounts make a pan template, and take the engine frame rails to a welding shop for modification, clean the frame and get it so the front axle will take grease at the pivit points and re-assemble with new ISO mounts. Before replacing the drive shaft, I would also recommend changing the flex joints and cooling fan for the Hydrostatic charge pump.

I know that you have a grand daughter who needs a ride. Once these repairs are done, it will be a lot easier to handle this wonderful tractor.

Good luck. We are all here for your questions. This job seems like a lot of work, but when it is broken down into segments, it isn't bad at all. I did this very job last summer, and almost everyone here was helpful, patient, understanding and supportive. They answered my questions, no matter how simple or stupid they seemed. Looking back, it was pretty fun.

Be well.

Brian Wittman

 

[kostendorf]

Thanks Bill, I keep procrastinating on this but I need to get started. Taking the drive shaft apart has me worried. And all the covers going back on right. I got to take lots of pictures. That's probably going to be most my time.

 

[kostendorf]

Thanks Brian, I know I'll have lots of questions, The people on this forum are awesome to say the least.

 

[bjamison]

Brian W - great write-up!

Keith O - You should also do Dave Kirk's steering upgrade while your in there too.

 

[dclinansmith]

Bill J. I bought a 25 HP Kohler V-twin for my 782 CC. Before I installed it I tried to put it into a bare 1650 frame just in case I wanted to make a swap later. It will not fit without modifying the frame. That's been awhile ago so I don't remember exactly what it would have taken to make it fit. I just knew I wasn't going to cut up the frame on one of my good tractors

Don T. One of my 1650's would not go above an idle when I bought it. New points and condenser solved the problem. I don't know for sure which was the problem but I suspect it was the condenser.

 

[bjamison]

Quick Creeper Question - I'm pondering getting myself a creeper for my 126. These IHCC's have ultra strong rear ends in them - question is - is the creeper a potential weak link? If I use the tractor for moldboard plowing am I going to trash the creeper due to the stress of the pull? Also, what do you typically use the creeper for - with your chores? Most of what I've read is they are very good if you have a snow blower. I use the low range in one of my other color tractors to creep up to something when mowing very close and I can see using the creeper for that too on my 126.

Speaking of moldboard plowing - what gear do you folks plow with when using your moldboard plow?

 

[kostendorf]

I've got the steering upgrade, new points, iso mounts, the blue coil, the point saver, head gasket, oil pan gasket, spark plug wire, spark plug and new grade 5 bolts that I have to cut 1/4 inch off of. The only other thing I can think of is a gasket for the point cover and I think I can make that. I'm pretty sure this is a replacement engine, and not sure if the balance gears are there so I am definitely going to check that. And new lock nuts too. I want to check and do every thing so I don't have to do this again for 20 or so years. That would take me to 77 years old. and my granddaughter can do it next time.

 

[jbaker]

Bill, the creeper is not a weak point, I would think the clutch would slip first or a pin would break. I have only used the creeper with the snowblower.

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - My 72 has the fast 19T 2nd gear, 3.9 MPH according to the book. With the old tired K241 in it I could plow most places in 2nd gear. Couple places I needed to drop into 1st. I haven't plowed with the K321 in it yet, but imagine I could plow ANYWHERE in 2nd now. In fact, I was figuring up just this morning how fast my 72 would run with the MWSC over-drive 12T pinion drive gear in it; the 2.3 MPH 1st would be 2.5; 3.9 MPH 2nd would be 4-1/4, and 3rd would be about 7-1/2 MPH.

I've never had a creeper in any of my GD's, and can only think of maybe a half dozen times when I could have used one in Fifty yrs of running CC's. If I need to go that slow I use a hydro.

 

[ssadams]

Hey Gang,

I have to fix the fuel line on the Original I got for my mom. (BTY she FREAKED out when I surprised her with it. I drove it right into the house the night before christmas and parker in front of the fire place! She was in a freak-out-zone, touching it and yelling "omg, is this for real!!!" It was just the reaction we were looking for) Anyway, it has a copper fuel line with no filter of any kind. So I purchased a replacement glass water separator to put in.
Will the new water sep. need a mount or can it just be held by the rigidity of the copper fuel line. If it does need a mount how would you guy recommend the installation. In addition, it did stall and die the other day on initial fire up before a snow plow job and we have been unable to start it since. We have spark. Thanks Dudes!
Scott

 

[hydroharry]

I wonder why we haven't seen a post by Don T yet. It must be afternoon already in Nova Scotia and I want to know what the problem is/was with his 125.

 

[vthomley]

Bill, second gear is your friend while plowing. Your 12hp should handle most any soil conditions.

A creeper would be only used in a very slow application - snow blowing or roto-tilling. not necessarily a weak point, just an option for a gear drive. I do for-see ever using the creeper during mowing, just shift to 1st gear if you need to mow slower in the up close areas.

Spring Assist - lifting a plow, snowthrower, front blade, roto-tiller, or any other heavy attachment is mush easier with a spring assist on a manual lift Cub Cadet. The spring is adjustable, so when you are lifting a mower deck you can loosen the tension and have very little spring assist. Lifting a haevy roto-tiller you can tighten the spring. I have a spring assist on all my manual lift Cub Cadets.

 

[vthomley]

What Cub Cadets had or have the 19T second gear? I'm wondering if my Model 72 roller frame, well transmission, has one inside. I want to use one in my 1600 build...

 

[kostendorf]

Harry, Don is playing in the garage...