• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through February 12, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Wes, I've had good luck getting those screws out using the impact socket on my ratchet wrench. You can put a lot of "down force" by pushing down on the rachet wrench as you turn it.
 
hello, new guy here. i was on the other ihregistry and have been a lurker here for awhile. where is a good place to get the V61 tires for the front of my 1650? thanks
 
Brian S.
Chris Westfall (Cub Cadet Classics) sells them.
You know, the Sponsor buttons at the top of each page!
thumbsup_old.gif


The other ihregistry?
 
As I'm breaking down this 1200 I noticed that this tractor has the solid disc (r) and not the flexable disc (r). What's your opinion of using the solid disc instead of the flex discin a QL?? Looks like it's been working in this tractor just fine. The one in my 1600 is cracking.
221174.jpg

221175.jpg
 
Tom H: The flexible clutch disc in the QL Gear Drives is there for a purpose. It was designed to compensate for the engine vibrations allowed by the Iso-Mounts - all part of the "Quiet" in the design. Replacing the flexible disc with a solid one in a tractor with Iso-Mounts just means excessive wear of something else in the drive line. It all depends when & where you want to spend your money. BTW, AFAIK, IH never put those flexible drive discs in any Cub Cadet with a hp higher than 12... A 1600 ?? ... 16 hp may be your cracking problem, since the flexible discs weren't designed for that much hp...... I can break anythng with a big enough hammer.
bouncy.gif


Myron B
 
Tom,
That flex disc will crack behind a 8hp if the ISO mounts are worn, but if you want to use a solid driver then at least replace the ISO mounts with solid mounts to help keep the engine from moving.

There are two versions of the flex disc, the one like you posted that uses a seperate hub and bearing for the driveshaft to fit in, and one that has the bearing made into the disc. The latter type is about $175. It can be replaced with the type you posted, if you also buy the hub w/bearing to go with it, but then the cost of those two items will also be about $175. The solid disc and solid mounts are probably better, but as Myron said, then you are probably going to get wear/damage someplace else.
 
Hi Guys,

I just had to replace the voltage regulator on my 123 that I bought brand new last June. It didn't get much use but apparently one of the coils failed. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there an easy fix if it ever happens again?
 
STEVE B. - Another good NEW tire to recommend for moldboard plowing is the new 23-10.50 FIRESTONE 23 Deg. Miller Tire is the ONLY source, but a pic I saw the other day looks like it has the same high lug count as the 8.50 but two inches wider.

With the late summer 2010 availability not too many were around for use at fall plow days but I suspect if the performance is anything like the 23-8.50's they'll work great.

DANIEL - Plus with 23-10.50's they'll go right on your existing rear wheels. I run Firestones on both my mowing tractors. The extra traction comes in real handy on slopes & around ditches.

GLENN P. - re F&F IH red, I've heard some not good things regarding F&F's red paints, fading & lossof gloss over time. Might not be a problem with a garage kept tractor, or if a hardener was used. For the small amount of paint needed for a CC, especially a red one I'd use C/IH 2150. And if you have the equipment available to paint with using hardeners I would use them. They make the paint flow out and shine MUCH better. But you need either supplied air masks or a really good activated carbon canister respirator. Don;t even think a surgical mask will do, serious lung problems WILL result.
 
Okay the guy I bought my parts 125 off of has in his garage a 68 105 in great/restored shape. He would sell but had to tell him if I looked at it more than twice I would be in divorce court Monday. Sweet tractor first restored one I have been close up to.
 
Does anyone know off the top of their head what the thread size is for the lug bolts on a 125? I want to clean the threads out before putting tires back on. I do not have a tap that big and am going to get one. Thanks Tim
 
Paul/Myron,
Thanks for the info. That's what I remember too. That flex 3 pin disc is the week link in my book. Solid mounting of a 16hp in the 169 seemed to work out pretty well so I think I'm going with the solid mount this spring when I retire my Dad's 1600 into a trailer queen. Do any of our sponcers sell the solid mounts?
 
charlie digger... thanks i didnt see them listed on his site. and yes there was another ihregistry site but it crashed about a year ago. i see a few names that are familiar on here from there. as far as the V61's they are listed on ebay for 110+shipping and was just trying to find out if anyone had them cheeper. thanks
 
Denny,

F&F Velspar Restoration series paint is an acrylic enamel, not the plain jane stuff of years past......leaps ahead of the old "implement paint"
 
Glenn, Steve & Denny,
I bought F&F Valspar tractor and implemnent paint # 5339-15 IH White, for my Original rebuild. I don,t know if this is correct?? Does anyone know if this is right? I want it to look like the original color. My tractor serial # is 15473 (1961)
Thanks
 
k301 points push rod length? anyone know the prper length? Also I would like to use a multi meter to check the dwell, any marks for this, or degree spec?
 
Anybody seen or heard from KENtuckyKEN, lately, I know I haven't seen him around in quite a while.
 
Paul A.-

The Valspar IH white isn't the correct shade of white for an Original. It is closer to the 935 white. You need 901. If you want correct, you'll need to have auto paint mixed.

Wayne M.-

Click here
 
Matt,
Is there anything close to IH 901 white or is 901 white available in a spay can?
Thanks
 

Latest posts

Back
Top