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Archive through February 08, 2011
- Thread starter pandrews
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
MARLIN - As I said, the FARMALL has 90W, but even in a 35-40 degree shop once the old girl catches & runs I have to hold the clutch in or just that very very small load on the engine is enough for it to cough & die. And all summer starting it almost every day, First start of the day I didn't have to choke it at all. It's set just a touch rich but not rich enough to foul plugs... I may have to give the old girl a work-out and blow some cobs out this spring!
Tom & Marlin,
I've got both, metal backed and decal.
I've got both, metal backed and decal.
Charlie "Digger" Proctor
You should not tell Timothy M. that I would smack him. I have a 14.5 ring finger lol.
Should that steering wheel decal have a hole in it for the screw that holds it in place?
Dennis Frisk
I don`t have starting problems with the tractors in my heated shop.Today was 63 deg all day for me. I like to work in a tee shirt and its worth the $100.00 a month to heat my 28' x 30' shop. I think Charlie is planning to heat a little more space for him to play in next winter. He has that big boiler that Aaron built for him and has lots of heat left over to heat a Cub Shed.I have a steering box to rebuild in the am,These cub are keeping me out of trouble and out of the house.
You should not tell Timothy M. that I would smack him. I have a 14.5 ring finger lol.
Should that steering wheel decal have a hole in it for the screw that holds it in place?
Dennis Frisk
I don`t have starting problems with the tractors in my heated shop.Today was 63 deg all day for me. I like to work in a tee shirt and its worth the $100.00 a month to heat my 28' x 30' shop. I think Charlie is planning to heat a little more space for him to play in next winter. He has that big boiler that Aaron built for him and has lots of heat left over to heat a Cub Shed.I have a steering box to rebuild in the am,These cub are keeping me out of trouble and out of the house.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- Sep 20, 2001
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Charlie P. Once again.... You're the BEST!!!
Dennis F. I remember the days of starting my parents' FARMALL H and M and then my own Super H. You're correct with having to hold the clutch in for a little bit. I remember too that a neat little way to give cold oil a quick and gentle boost is to add just a little kerosene to the engine oil before trying to start it. If I recall that was put into the big IH tractor manuals up to at least the 56 Series. One cup in a big tractor went a long ways and would thin the oil enough to let the starter turn the engine over faster. No need to worry about the kerosene staying in the oil since once the engine got up to operating temperature the kerosene would quickly dissapate. I used to have to do that with my F20 on the really cold days (below zero). I'd use around three quarters of a cup. I think with a Kohler in a Cub Cadet you'd be measuring with a teaspoon or soup spoon.
Dennis F. I remember the days of starting my parents' FARMALL H and M and then my own Super H. You're correct with having to hold the clutch in for a little bit. I remember too that a neat little way to give cold oil a quick and gentle boost is to add just a little kerosene to the engine oil before trying to start it. If I recall that was put into the big IH tractor manuals up to at least the 56 Series. One cup in a big tractor went a long ways and would thin the oil enough to let the starter turn the engine over faster. No need to worry about the kerosene staying in the oil since once the engine got up to operating temperature the kerosene would quickly dissapate. I used to have to do that with my F20 on the really cold days (below zero). I'd use around three quarters of a cup. I think with a Kohler in a Cub Cadet you'd be measuring with a teaspoon or soup spoon.
MARLIN - Yep, H & SH take six quarts of oil, M/SM etc take eight. To keep the ratio of oil to kero the same in a 1-1/2 quart Kohler about a Shot Glass of kero would just about right!
Couple yrs ago I took the block heater off the M, Dad had it plumbed into the heat gauge port on the head. The port with a TEE wouldn't work for both temp gauge & block heater, the temp gauge wouldn't be inside the water jacket and almost always show cold, BT-DT. We drilled an extra port into the Super H's head years ago so both the temp gauge and block heater work. Both heaters sat right under the air cleaner and tapped water from the block drain behind the carb.
I found out 24 yrs ago it s possible to put TOO BIG a block heater on an engine. I didn't get the factory block heater on my '87 F150 w/300-6 when I found out it was only 500W. I plumbed in a 1500W tank-type. Plenty of places to plumb into the cooling system, but the water would get so hot it would shut off after only a few minutes. I think 1000-1200 W would have been plenty. My PSD has a 1000W installed into the rear header plate of the tube-inside-a-tube oil cooler so it heats both water & oil. Works great! I had the truck sitting outside the shop in Zero degree temps for two days with the heater plugged in a couple months ago, 15W-40 oil in the engine. When I went to put it in the shop the engine sprang to life like it was 90 out!
ANYTHING you can do to get either gas or diesel engines warmed up before starting pays benefits with longer starter & battery life. Plus the engine typically lasts years longer too. Cold starts in summer are not good but cold starts in winter are REALLY hard on engines. Guy my Dad drove for years ago tryied to start a 220 Cummins with 30W oil in it during zero degree temps. Never did get it started until AFTER it was rebuilt by the Riverside IH truck shop in Davenport from spinning some main & rod bearings due to insufficient oiling due to the thick oil.
Couple yrs ago I took the block heater off the M, Dad had it plumbed into the heat gauge port on the head. The port with a TEE wouldn't work for both temp gauge & block heater, the temp gauge wouldn't be inside the water jacket and almost always show cold, BT-DT. We drilled an extra port into the Super H's head years ago so both the temp gauge and block heater work. Both heaters sat right under the air cleaner and tapped water from the block drain behind the carb.
I found out 24 yrs ago it s possible to put TOO BIG a block heater on an engine. I didn't get the factory block heater on my '87 F150 w/300-6 when I found out it was only 500W. I plumbed in a 1500W tank-type. Plenty of places to plumb into the cooling system, but the water would get so hot it would shut off after only a few minutes. I think 1000-1200 W would have been plenty. My PSD has a 1000W installed into the rear header plate of the tube-inside-a-tube oil cooler so it heats both water & oil. Works great! I had the truck sitting outside the shop in Zero degree temps for two days with the heater plugged in a couple months ago, 15W-40 oil in the engine. When I went to put it in the shop the engine sprang to life like it was 90 out!
ANYTHING you can do to get either gas or diesel engines warmed up before starting pays benefits with longer starter & battery life. Plus the engine typically lasts years longer too. Cold starts in summer are not good but cold starts in winter are REALLY hard on engines. Guy my Dad drove for years ago tryied to start a 220 Cummins with 30W oil in it during zero degree temps. Never did get it started until AFTER it was rebuilt by the Riverside IH truck shop in Davenport from spinning some main & rod bearings due to insufficient oiling due to the thick oil.
Dennis Frisk
I had good luck with the lower rad hose heater I had on my 69 chev ,worked slick to heat it up in the am.
My Cummings will will start right off after I run the air heater and put my foot on the petal,Just a little throttle and it don`t roll much.It starts right up and if the exhaust is white I shut it down and use the heater again. I have no issues with starting. I Have seen fires lit under tractors here to get them to start,Never liked that idea.
On Cub topic I have misplaced my points for my 125 12K engine
.I know i put it where I thought I could find it when needed , but now can`t seem to access the memory bank as to where that perfect place would be.I will have to rob the points from the 107 if I don``t find it today. ????????? I should be able to time the engine with out the head on and use Matt G method for timing the K,Is this correct?I need to get the K together and have it ready to install. New tru powers to pick up soon also. I think I will use this 125 for a mowing tractor. Have a great day .
I had good luck with the lower rad hose heater I had on my 69 chev ,worked slick to heat it up in the am.
My Cummings will will start right off after I run the air heater and put my foot on the petal,Just a little throttle and it don`t roll much.It starts right up and if the exhaust is white I shut it down and use the heater again. I have no issues with starting. I Have seen fires lit under tractors here to get them to start,Never liked that idea.
On Cub topic I have misplaced my points for my 125 12K engine
Regarding that NLA decal, from the forum archives:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Brian Jordan /149 (Bjordan) on Wednesday, January 02, 2002 - 06:54 pm:
File this one under "It worked for me". When I got the IH emblem decal for the steering wheel(I suppose the original ones were aluminum or such), I wanted to be able to pull the wheel off if needed without peeling off the sticker.
I cut out a piece of stiff plastic I bought from a craft store, put the proper bend in it to conform the bend in the steering wheel, applied the IH decal to the face of it, and put a self-stick velcro button on the back, and the matching side of the velcro button stuck to the recess in the steering wheel. Pops off when ever I need it to and lays in nicely and holds fast when I don't.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
By Brian Jordan /149 (Bjordan) on Wednesday, January 02, 2002 - 06:54 pm:
File this one under "It worked for me". When I got the IH emblem decal for the steering wheel(I suppose the original ones were aluminum or such), I wanted to be able to pull the wheel off if needed without peeling off the sticker.
I cut out a piece of stiff plastic I bought from a craft store, put the proper bend in it to conform the bend in the steering wheel, applied the IH decal to the face of it, and put a self-stick velcro button on the back, and the matching side of the velcro button stuck to the recess in the steering wheel. Pops off when ever I need it to and lays in nicely and holds fast when I don't.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Kraig
I like the velcro Idea. I've used a thin sheet of tin or aluminum from my local ACE store (hobby section). I glued an after market decal on it and cut to size with sissors. Instead of gluing the finished product to the steering wheel I think I do the Velcro thing.
I like the velcro Idea. I've used a thin sheet of tin or aluminum from my local ACE store (hobby section). I glued an after market decal on it and cut to size with sissors. Instead of gluing the finished product to the steering wheel I think I do the Velcro thing.
