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Archive through February 07, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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These are the times that FREEZE mens' minds.
Darn, I love this job!
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Roger,

Charlie is right in saying that 3/4" spacers will not clear chained 26" Tru Powers. I originally used 3/4" nuts under the fender deck (similar to Charlie's washer method), but when I chained up the Titans this winter I quickly realized I need more clearance. The new spacers are 1" square tubing under the fender deck, and a combination of washers and 3/4" nuts under the foot rests to make everything work. If you are going to make them out of tubing, skip the 3/4" and go right to 1". FWIW, there is nothing wrong with the washer idea except for the fact that 1" of washers can get fun to stack up in 7 holes under the fender deck
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Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow"
I do like the looks of that set of tires.they look great.


Frank C
Hows the head this am lol. Are we thinking clear?
Think I will go out and move some snow this morning,it was fluffing all day and night and there is about 5" there for me to get some seat time in on the tractor. It is going to get warmer today so i had better plow it now before it melts lol. I just glance outside and its snowing hard.,. Later Don T
 
Anybody using the spacer method to put 26" tires on a 1x6/1x7? Any experience running them on a narrow frame with a 48" mower deck? I'm wondering if they'd clear the back of the deck. If they'll work, it might make a nice setup for the 126 with the super steer front axle.

Thanks,
Jerry
 
Thanks everyone for the advice... I do not have a creeper but I have been keeping my eye out for a deal on one. I do have the stock, 10hp motor and it does an ok job but I would love more power in the old Cub and QA combo.
 
Steve
that tubing is not a bad idea. I was going right to 1" under the rear 3/4" mid and 1/2" front
 
Well, broke my laptop but luckily I saved a few shots to PBucket.

Here's my mess I woke up to 6:30 am Saturday morning. Knee deep and wet.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/Freightrain66/odd%20pics/feb610b.jpg

After near 3 hrs of pushing snow:
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/Freightrain66/odd%20pics/feb610c.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/Freightrain66/odd%20pics/feb610e.jpg

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/Freightrain66/odd%20pics/feb610d.jpg

Luckily the township cleared my road by 10am, so I was able to get out for more gas(oops, almost ran out). Got back and hopped on the Cub for more seat time at two of my neighbors houses. They were desperately trying to shovel their way out and I could see that was futile. Another few hours of Cub time and I put it back away.

Sounds like we're getting another 3-6 inches in the next few days. Not sure where I'll be able to push it?? Getting pretty tall, but I don't doubt the ability of my ol 149 to do the job(in style). The neighbors daughter even commented on how nice the tractor was.

I'm just glad I have hydraulic lift, as I think if I had to pull that handle for 5 hrs I'd be in traction right now LMAO!!! I'll be also glad when I can start on the hydraulic swing for the blade as getting off the seat constantly isn't easy either. With just a couple inches you can leave the blade alone, but with all this I was constantly having to move it.

Lovin' my Cub!
 
I'll bet there are a few diehard "blade" guys looking for places to put snow today.. Might be the right time to put that spare QA-whatever thrower in the classifieds (for those guys to use "next time")..

Charlie and Steve:
Stack the washers on a bolt and wrap 'em in good PVC electrical tape....Make's 'em look classier, too.
 
good morning guys
can anyone tell me if there is another size tire chain to fit my original 6x12 tires?
thanks in advance
 
Bjohnson,
You will probably have to move the coil up higher on the blower housing (look at the 129 engine for reference) or it will hit the frame.
 
Ken,
I wanted a thrower for mine, but the blade fell into my lap easier. From all the posts, it seems the throwers have their issues and unless you have a good one, they are more work then good? The blade has a LOT less moving parts to deal with.
 
Lucas H.
If you not looking for a perfect fit, 8x12's will work. But there's a reason they make different sized chains ya know.
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Larry K.
It depends on how long you want to play in the snow.
Blades are fine if you want to spend lots of time moving snow.
Throwers are great for moving snow out of the way at a faster rate and a much cleaner look when you get done.
I'll take a thrower over a blade any day.
I rest my case,
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LUCAS - Yep, like Charlie says, there's only two important dimensions on tire chains. Over-all diameter, and tire section width. BIGGER on either or both dimensions for chains is better, much better than smaller.

I can't remember the ATV tire size anymore but I put chains on my 23-8.50 X 12's off an ATV tire. I think they were something like 24"-9.00 X 11's? They were bought used from my local Case/IH dealer, think I paid $25/pair and they were almost new.

And chains are actually easier to mount and work better on turf tires than lugged tires. And just to answer the question before it's asked, chains give WAY more traction in snow/ice that any lugged tire ever will. Tests I've read say something like 250-500% more.

LARRY K. - Actually, blowers are pretty simple, unfortunately also real easy to abuse with rocks, ice, extension cords, etc. They seem to be hard on belts when used on higher HP tractors, or the belts aren't tight enough and slip. The gearbox, driveshaft, & roller chain are pretty trouble-free. The sealed bearings the auger runs on tend to get water from melting snow in them, rust, and then wear. A little oil on them and the chain every now & then really helps them survive. I'd use my QA-36 but it always seems the tractor and I end up with an inch or more of snow on US when I use it. I always tried to blow down-wind but when You get close to buildings or trees stuff happens.
 
A snowthrower is not that unreliable, at least if you go through it every few years and make sure it's up to the task. Here are the basic steps I follow:

The two bearings for the auger are readily available and low cost, so just replace them if they are at all worn. While the auger is out of the main housing, straighten any bent flights and weld up any cracked areas. Clean up any rust on the inside of the auger housing with a wire cup brush and/or sanding disc on an angle grinder. Put a fresh coat of paint on the auger housing and when that's set up put on at least two coats of a brush-on graphite paint like Slip-Plate. remove and inspect the cutting bar, reverse it if overly worn on the front edge or replace it if it's already been reversed. Inspect the runners, reverse, replace or weld on skis as needed or preferred. Remove the discharge chute and clean it up to remove any rust, then repaint and coat the inside with the same brush-on graphite paint, also coat the area where the discharge chute rotates, CLICK HERE FOR MORE DETAIL. Inspect and replace if needed, the two needle bearings on the chain tensioner/drive shaft, these are easily replaced. I used a socket to drive the old ones out and the new ones in, be sure to line up the hole in the bearing with the grease Zerk. While you have this assembly apart inspect the chain drive sprocket, replace if overly worn. With the drive-shaft U-Joint bearings, replace if necessary. Open up the gear box and remove the lube, inspect the gears and bearings, replace if needed, refill with fresh lube and install the cover with a new gasket. Make sure the drive pulley is properly aligned with the PTO pulley. Inspect the drive belt, replace if cracked or overly worn. Install the auger and put it all back together and adjust the chain tension. Inspect the auger rotator, adjust as needed. If the little U-Joint for the auger rotator is worn out CLICK HERE

This was a heavy wet snowfall from March 2006 with my #2 125, which at the time had a worn out underpowered K301 in it, running a properly maintained and setup QA42. That 125 now has a rebuilt K301 "Killer Kohler" in it and it really makes that QA42 throw snow.
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