• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through February 05, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Harry,
the top photo is after I removed the bad bearing and wiped clean, the bottom photo is from my used parts bin that I originaly rescued from a field.

here is what it looked like when i brought it home three years ago
253276.jpg


and now that 108 tractor still sits in the barn waiting to share its parts to help another cub run
 
Harry B.

10-4 on modifying the QL engine rails. I found someone with an set of engine cradle brackets that have already been welded-up with the cross piece. They have the notch at the front of the rails - which I asked about earlier. I also picked-up a cast iron oil pan too - not that I really need it, but something I just wanted. I figure more steel is better than less, especially when screwing the bolts into it from under the tractor. I'm pretty sure the aluminum oil pan on my 109 has a stripped thread on one corner and I may use the pan off my 14 hp engine on this 1650 on the 109 - if I ever pull the engine.

This 1650 is going to be a worker tractor and a hard worker at that. It will get a 50 inch deck and see a lot of mowing. Over time, I plan on getting the spec K341AQS rebuilt and ready for a swap in to the 1650, but right now the 14 hp is going back into it. I also have a lead on a 3 pt hitch, so this tractor might see some moldboard plow duty if I get the 3 pt hitch.

Quick question - all of my IHCC's have what reminds me of a "Town & Country" snow tread tire - from what I can remember back in the day. These tires are not as aggressive as an ag tire, but look much better than what I would call normal rear garden tractor tires of both yesterday and today. How good is the traction of these tires? With a set of wheel weights, are they capable of pulling a moldboard plow? Surely they would get the tractor around the hills in my yard with a little weight. What's your opinion of these stock IHCC rear tires?
 
Jeff - that 108 is to nice to be sharing parts. I know you liked Elvis, but parking it cause it's got a flat tire is a bit overboard. AND using it to support it's Superior, well, then at least put the 109 engine back in the 108 to maintain it's appearance.

Bill J - hey good find on the cast iron oil pan. I think the "Town and Country" you refer to is what I used to call "Mud and Snow", and it also just happens to be on the 108 Jeff posted a pic below. I never pulled a plow myself so I can't address from experience like others on here. My assumption would be that the T&C may be "slightly" better than a straight turf tire but that either with weights and chains is what you really need to pull a plow, if you don't have the ags.
 
Harry,
Not when it can make its supurior sister the 109 run.....
 
Bill Jamison

I have a few of those tires around here and I found because of there age the rubber has gotten hard and not much good for traction. I think a softer tire would be the best for traction.
 
Don T - hey good to see you post again. I don't think a soft turf tread is gonna really give you any traction. You need the weights and chains - which is also why I said either tire, soft or hard.
Hey - is the 125 running? The Point Saver in operation??

Jeff - I made some additional comments under edit below.
 
Hey Wayne - been playing with those valves and actually making progress. Getting lots of brown! Do the plungers actually come all the way out?? Don't think so but wanna check. They're going back in tomorrow!!
 
Terry-

I think the plungers (button) comes out further if the spring is in good shape. Just keep working it with cleaner back and forth and after a while it will just do what it's gonna do. The "brown" is the rust that has hindered its operation and the more you get out the better. Once they're back in the tractor the pressure will pop the buttons out and they should work fine. You can also lube them up with some Hytran before installing but they'll get lubed either way.
 
Can someone give me some history on when IH Cubs when from chrome hubcaps to the stamped "IH" logo on them? I have a Cub 100 with chrome, and I think the 123's came chrome from the factory. Not sure when they went to the IH logos - but have seen many 82 series with them. Thanks. JB
 
Hey Harry - was referring to the silver expansion plug (bout 2 in round) and not that little breather gizmo. Can't figure why it had black rubbery stuff on it (maybe sprayed on?) and curious if they're hard to change out.
 
I only have wide frames but I have never seen an exspansion plug on them.
 
Terry D - I've had narrow and wide frames and don't recall ever seeing a 2" expansion plug. Can you get us a pic?
 
It's there - in the front of the transmission case. #29 in Parts Lookup and a bear to remove when tearing down a transmission.
happy.gif

OOPS! #32 for a 147, #29 for a 149.
happy.gif
 
Harry: the plug is almost hidden by the brake shaft passing right in front of it. The plug is concave. To take it out, bore a hole in it, stick a screw in it and pry it out. The plug hole has a shoulder the plug sets on and to tighten the new plug hit it with a hammer and flatten it a little. Same dang plugs in a 49 Cad engine.
 
Hey there - thank you guys for squaring me away on the expansion plug. I actually did consider poppin a hole in it and trying to pull it out with something but was too chicken. It doesn't sound like it's a common problem so I think I'll leave it alone for now. Just concerned me that perhaps the rubber over the plug was concealing a leak. The plug itself looks ok and at least I know now that it can indeed be replaced if ever needed. May try and put a thin bead of silicone around it after I take another look at it tomorrow. Thanks again guys for all your help and can't wait to get this thing back on the road. And, picked up a plow and creeper for my 126 and got an invite to a plowing day not far from Indy. Cheers
 
Well lookie here! She isn't the prettiedt girl at the dance but she's got what I need.
253282.jpg
 
Tom More info please looks like a 169, also looks like hoses coming out the front?
 
Will a 2082 front axle fit in a 1X8-9 series. I have been told the supers front axle will fit but raise the front a inch of so.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top