Steve B. & Don T. Thanks for the info! One more question..I have a complete QA subframe off a 147, will that fit my 122? I know i can physically try all this and see, but my great "outdoor" shop is a lil cold and a whole lotta wet. I figure if i can get my needed info from all you very knowledgable wizards it could save me some time and aggrevation. Thanks again guys! }}
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Archive through February 04, 2014
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
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Lucas J. thanks. . now all i gotta do is get some dry weather and try to make this work. BTW, a lil something for you to think about. . .on my 122 i have hi and low beam headlights.
I've read a lot of info on here and haven't seen anyone mention anything like that,but i'm sure somebody other than me has done it.
Kraig,
Thanks for the update. Rest easy, you didn't hurt anything.
Couple of pics of my chute rotator. This is a power window motor obtained through Surplus Center:
Thanks for the update. Rest easy, you didn't hurt anything.
Couple of pics of my chute rotator. This is a power window motor obtained through Surplus Center:
Hi Everyone,
Update on the starting issue. I pulled the spark plug to see how good the spark was when grounding the plug. Once I saw the electrode on the plug it had some carbon on it and the gap was too big. I decided to install a new plug and test this change first. The result was the tractor started immediately. It started much faster than in the last several months.
Tomorrow we have another 3 -6 inches coming so let the fun begin.
Thank you for all the input I received. Rich W.
Update on the starting issue. I pulled the spark plug to see how good the spark was when grounding the plug. Once I saw the electrode on the plug it had some carbon on it and the gap was too big. I decided to install a new plug and test this change first. The result was the tractor started immediately. It started much faster than in the last several months.
Tomorrow we have another 3 -6 inches coming so let the fun begin.
Thank you for all the input I received. Rich W.
kostendorf
Well-known member
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- 617
- displayname
- Keith Ostendorf
The throttle cable wire just broke on my 1650 plowing snow. Looks like a pita to get the whole assembly out. Has anyone just changed the wire instead of buying a new assembly?
Keith O.
QL's are easy, it takes longer to get the side cover off than to change the cable assembly out.
QL's are easy, it takes longer to get the side cover off than to change the cable assembly out.
kostendorf
Well-known member
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- Messages
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- Keith Ostendorf
Thanks Charlie, I got to look and see how the handle comes off so I can get the whole assembly out of the dash.
Keith O.
Take the battery out, remove the cable at the engine, remove the nut on the underside of the dash that attaches the cable and pull.
Take the battery out, remove the cable at the engine, remove the nut on the underside of the dash that attaches the cable and pull.
Here's the cable assembly. Dirt simple.
1450 front Hydraulic control fixed !
First off I'd like to thank everyone who posted to help me out so I could do this repair before the impending storm... I went down to the garage this morning and figured the best approach was to start removing everything in my way to see if I could see what the problem was. It was a broken roll pin on the piece connected to the smaller diameter shaft. Because it was broken, I was able to disconnect both sets of linkage from the control valve. Then I slid it to the left and slid the linkage arm off the shaft. This made it easy to knock out the 2 broken pieces of roll pin. To knock out the piece of roll pin left on the shaft, I used the tang side of a long skinny file and tapped it out rather easily. I thought I was going to be slick and figured I'd put it back together with a pretty beefy cotter pin, that way it would be easy to fix if it ever broke. Well... IT BROKE after about 20 min of plowing, so it was back to the garage...
Ughh I had to take it apart Nascar style, and headed off to the hardware store to get the correct pin...of course I bought 2 !!! I was thinking about how it was going to be tough to start the roll pin on the linkage arm, then try to find the hole on the shaft because it is pretty difficult working in that tight space especially with the steering column and wiring in the way. So I took a bench grinder and ground off a bit of the pin diameter off of the starting end just so I could fit it in about 1/8" just beyond the linkage hole so I could slip it in and locate the hole on the shaft rather easily. Then I took a 1/2" ratchet extension that was about 10" long and was able to tap it in with a hammer. I put everything back together and all is working fine. I took it out and tested it and am good to go hopefully for another 39 years !!! Sorry I couldn't take a few pics, but I was really pressed for time, but hopefully if you have to do this fix some of the things I have related here helps somebody out. Thanks Ya'll and happy cubbing. Maybe I'll post a couple of plowing pics in the next few days. Thanks
Jack
First off I'd like to thank everyone who posted to help me out so I could do this repair before the impending storm... I went down to the garage this morning and figured the best approach was to start removing everything in my way to see if I could see what the problem was. It was a broken roll pin on the piece connected to the smaller diameter shaft. Because it was broken, I was able to disconnect both sets of linkage from the control valve. Then I slid it to the left and slid the linkage arm off the shaft. This made it easy to knock out the 2 broken pieces of roll pin. To knock out the piece of roll pin left on the shaft, I used the tang side of a long skinny file and tapped it out rather easily. I thought I was going to be slick and figured I'd put it back together with a pretty beefy cotter pin, that way it would be easy to fix if it ever broke. Well... IT BROKE after about 20 min of plowing, so it was back to the garage...
Ughh I had to take it apart Nascar style, and headed off to the hardware store to get the correct pin...of course I bought 2 !!! I was thinking about how it was going to be tough to start the roll pin on the linkage arm, then try to find the hole on the shaft because it is pretty difficult working in that tight space especially with the steering column and wiring in the way. So I took a bench grinder and ground off a bit of the pin diameter off of the starting end just so I could fit it in about 1/8" just beyond the linkage hole so I could slip it in and locate the hole on the shaft rather easily. Then I took a 1/2" ratchet extension that was about 10" long and was able to tap it in with a hammer. I put everything back together and all is working fine. I took it out and tested it and am good to go hopefully for another 39 years !!! Sorry I couldn't take a few pics, but I was really pressed for time, but hopefully if you have to do this fix some of the things I have related here helps somebody out. Thanks Ya'll and happy cubbing. Maybe I'll post a couple of plowing pics in the next few days. Thanks
Jack
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