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Archive through February 04, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Nick Q.
At lest it starts with a C.
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We got about 2", so i dint even mess with firing anything up to move it. 39 degrees and melting fast.
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Charlie & Nick wish we'd of got snow ... all we got here so far is freeeeezing rain They say 1-3" tomorrow LOL
 
Kraig M. Very cool Kitty. Even Angel thought so. Love the Killer Kohler.

It was freezing rain this morning and now it is slush and very foggy. Freezing rain predicted for over night.

Sitting here listening to Duane Eddy's Rebel Rouser
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on the head phones
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. Geez... now I can't listen to that song without thinking ..... "Run, Forrest! RUN!!!" Wonder how Forrest would have done at a Plow Day on a Hydro? "Plow Forrest!!!PLOW!!!
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With 70+ temperatures in Virginia this week, I am ready to do some painting on my 169 project. I have misplaced my directions on the mix of paint, thinner, and hardner. Can anyone help me? Thanks
 
A dash of this and a pinch of that ;)

It'll be 74 here tomorrow but I have to put $180 worth of brake parts on the ol lady's Rodeo ... I'd like to paint my cub too but it'll be raining.
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Kraig - You better get that Kohler out of that tub before the KAT takes a crap in it
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Rob, only 1-3"? They are talking 6-12" for Northern Illinois and Southern Wisconsin for Tuesday night and Wednesday. Luckily I got the 1650 back running tonight so it and the QA42A snowthrower are ready to go. The 106 with 48" blade is ready for clean-up when the 1650 is done. Looks like a lot of seat time the next couple days.
 
David G.
This was posted by Jim Steele many years ago.

1.) If you use Rustoleum primer, you almost guarantee a crappy paint job. Rustoleum primers
have mineral oils in them that are only compatible with Rustoleum paints, with very few exceptions. Some guys get away with it, but most don't. Rustoleum primers also create adhesion problems, so yer paint may chip or flake off later. If you are concerned about rust or have some rusty areas, go to Wally World and get a small bottle or spray can (preferred) of rust converter in the auto touchup paint section. Use according to directions. I prime over it, then, tho they say it can be painted over without that.

2.) Spray can primers are crap. They do not contain enough solids content to fill and cover
imperfections in the surface. That means that metal you roughened a bit with sand will still be
rough when you topocat and that will show in a duller looking finish with imperfections. Go get
a gallon of a cheap brand of lacquer primer-surfacer and 2 gallons of lacquer thinner from yer auto paint supplier. Check around on price. I get it for $22/gallon off-brand, but PPG brand is like $65 a gallon. It's all the same, formula is 150 years old. Mix it up pretty runny.

Then spray a good wet but not heavy coat, come back over that with a lighter "fog" coat, then spray a heavy coat. If it goes on grainy looking it is too thick. Wet sand with 600 to 1000 grit wet or dry paper. If it does not sand smooth in spots, you can reshoot the P-S to build just those spots and sand it down there smooth. Very forgiving stuff, you can sand out all yer priming
mistakes, and it will be a SMOOTH surface afterward.

3.) The CC brand paint is a true acrylic enamel. Be sure you have the correct reducer for it. Test a small bit of paint by mixing it with the reducer. If it seems like it won't mix or is curdled looking, yer reducer is wrong. If you don't think you need to do this, see Dave Schmidt, who was sold the wrong stuff. Most acrylics can use up to 8:1 reducer/enamel ratio, or 8:1:1 reducer/enamel/hardener. I mix mine in a glass Pryex 2 quart container like is used for baking, etc. Easy to clean afterward, marked in ounces. I like to use 5 or 6:1 for my first coat, cuz I get better coverage. Then come back with 8:1 final. Shoot primer and topcoats at 30-40 psi, depending on paint thickness. When you get to 40 psi and above, you are usually starting to waste a lot in overspray.

4.) Use 12 eyedropper drops of fisheye preventative in each mixed quart if you want to be sure you do not get these nasty little bubbles in your paint. They are usually caused by grease or oils on the primer surface. Even oils from yer hands can do it. They don't always appear, but you will make up new cuss words if they do cuz yer sunk then.
 
It has been a couple of days since my last post, sorry I have been lurking. After seeing Kraig's "killer Kohler", I was motivated to continue the teardown on the K301. I pulled the oil pan and much to my delight....no metal,dirt,etc. Just out of curiousity, I compared my oil pan to the one off of the parts 12hp.
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The pan on the top is from the parts engine and appears to be aluminum. Bottom is off the runnin engine and is cast. Any thoughts on which to use?
I am thinking the cast pan is stronger, but the aluminum pan would disapate heat better. I wish I had done this when the oil drain plug discussion was going on. Aluminum has the automotive type, cast has the pipe plug type.
 
Todd H.-

Are those both aluminum? Looks that way to me. If that's true, it probably doesn't matter which one you use. If the bottom one's cast iron, then use that one.
 
Matt, I was going by weight. I did not have a magnet handy. The bottom pan is much heavier than the top one.
 
Sorry to post twice. I hope someone has the answer to my seat/steering wheel question. If you were to go to the Cub dealer today and order a new steering wheel and seat under the old part numbers for a 149, what will you get? Will it look the same as the original set and steering wheel or is it something MTD makes to work on the old tractor? If it is different, Does anybody have pictures of the new stuff.
Thank you, Mark
 
Hi all ,i have misplaced my PTO gauge
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... is there a way to set up the pto with out the gauge ? or just leave 3 threads left on the bolts and hope for the best lol. help i`am sure i`am not the only lost soul out here lol thanks DonT
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TODD H. - I agree with Matt, Use the iron pan. If Your worried about heat dissipation then don't paint the pan and any other areas of the block. Paint is a great insulator.
CHARLIE - Jim S's Dad was an expert Paint Supervisor for MANY years at IH E. Moline in the Quad-Cities and Jim also worked for several years at Moline Paint Mfg. who supplied all the ag OEM's their red, white, green, yellow, Flambeau Orange, and Sunset Yellow paints. His afvice should be good!
Kraig - Your not actually going to Run That piece of artwork Dave made for You are You?
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Mark, I've been looking for a new seat for my 129 for quite a while and what people tell me is we have to buy a seat from a retailer (Tractor Supply, Northern Tool, etc...) and modify the bolt holes to fit the original tractor. Unless you want to pay $100 at the dealer, that is the way to go. Hopefully someone else here might be able to help better. -Brian.
 
Brian J,
Mark asked if the seat with the original part number from the dealer would be a correct/ matching seat to the original on his CC... he didn't ask how much it would be. For all we know he's willing to pay $300 for the correct seat.

That was kind of nasty... I feel like I fit in here now...
 
Keith L.
The 149 & 129 use the same seat PN/IH-1286673-C1 USE 759-3148. They run about 100 bucks or so and are pretty close to the original seats.
 
Denny, eventually I will actually start and run the K301. It is a piece of art for sure, Dave does amazing work. A Stradivarius could also be considered a work of art but it's true beauty comes out when it's played. I can't wait to hear the Killer Kohler...
 
Today's Super Tuesday ... I call any day that I can get out of bed <font color="0000ff">SUPER!</font>

Kraig - Does Briggs make a Kohler Killer ?
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