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Archive through February 03, 2017

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
Earl, yep KENtuckyKen made this ugly thing:

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The Great Crash happened back around 1998. Here's a link to the Old Voyager Forum Archive
 

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Ugh. I didn't know what to search for. Thanks Kraig, although I'm sorry I asked.

I do give him credit. It wasn't easy putting that thing together from the looks of it.
 
David W - if you read thru the Old Voyager Forum Archive, at the link Kraig posted below, please don't pay to close attention to my posts. Most were before I really knew anything about these units. And the Forum is how I did learn, along with many of the members contributions, visits, etc., over the last many years. Some even rate me at the level of the Correct Police now, but I don't claim that level. Highest level I do accept is "Ole Eagle Eye".
 
Does anybody else find it HILARIOUS that the "great" things Harry pointed out that we talked about before the "Great Crash" such as Oil debate and getting a darn steering wheel off

ARE THE SAME THINGS WE TALK ABOUT NOW!!

I was a junior in HS in 98. I did own my 128 then... but nearly 20 years later we still cant get a steering wheel off or decide if 10W-30 is ok to put in a Kohler...
 
Hey Marty,,, Well I did just as you instructed,,, I'm still grinding gears though,
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oh yeah and it keeps popping out of 2nd also,,!.,?.!.!?.,,!.?,


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Ethan K., didn't realize we were that close! If you get "stuck" and need a hand? Holler out and we'll work to get you back in motion!

You didn't get that 17" snow a few weeks back???
 
Nic,

According to the 70/100 operators manual, SAE 10W oils are good down to 0 degrees. 30 WT is good down to 32 degrees, and 5 WT oils are good below 0 degrees (Charlie's location!).
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As for the steering wheels, the press up with the knees and hit with the hammer method has worked every time for me. Although the lick count with the hammer may vary, it will work.
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So far, the axle pin removal is the most stubborn (PITA) feat to overcome. It appears the sawz-all method is the only way out.

If it ever gets above freezing, I plan on using that method twice today.
 

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Jason,

If you are referring to the operation of that pitiful lookin' thing you posted with the green fenders, I can understand why it acts like it does!
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Take those fenders off and find some red ones before Steve B. comes over there and...
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!
 

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Nic, hahaha
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I didn't officially sign up until 10 years ago, right before I bought my 1200 at one of Travis's plow days from Charlie.
In 98 I didn't have home access to dad's work computer. Now it can fit in my pocket and all that jazz,(now I'm
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)

Well going off to figure what I do, or don't have in my cub stash. Should have really done this back before winter.....
 

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Why Mike what's your twenty and yes we did but it melted with a few days....I bought the qa36 the day after and it needed some tlc to get in service
 
Ethan, I'm near New Bedford, MA, not to bad a ride to you. I put a qa36 on my 73. pretty cool how much work it can do.
 
Marty G - it's probably to late and you've probably already used the sawzall but just in case here's another possibility:

It's been quite some time since I removed a front axle pin, but I discovered many of them develope a wear spot causing the axle to actually ride up higher in the channel. If I encountered one of the really stubborn ones like this I'd strip the tractor down (remove engine and dash pedestal) and flip the frame over (upside down) and then drive the pin out. It's a matter of getting the wear area on the pin to line up so it slides thru the hole.

Whole thing is hard to describe and even harder to perform. Hope it helps you or someone.
 
Harry- If its like mine was the pin was frozen in the axle. All the Kroil and PB Blaster in the world wouldn't budge it. Heat may have worked but I didn't have a torch at the time.
 
Mike your only a half hour from me I'm in Jamestown RI I think I have it figured out some where in history of this tractor the pto rod was bad out of adjustment like I think it was hydroharry that suggested that....spot on sir
 
Ethan - are you saying you got your PTO to dis-engage after you adjusted the rod?

Adjusting the rod is how you adjust the gap between the PTO fiber button and the steel button.

Another issue with the rod is tightening the nuts on the turn-buckle. ONe of the nuts is left hand thread and often missing. I believe it's important to have both nuts and both tight - or the turn-buckle will have slack and the resulting adjustment on the buttons will vary.
 
Hydro-I'm able to get the pto to work by hand if you use one hand to push against the pto lever and use your right hand to turn the pto basket so the rod from what I can see is out of adjustment like you say my tractor has only one jam nut on he buckle I think over time the one nut must have Loosened up.im going to grab my neighbor tomorrow and have him adjust the turn buckle while I hold the pto lever in place at where the pto pulley spins freely
 
Oh and for any youngsters out there make sure you pull your spark plug before you start spinning the motor by hand so it doesn't start by accident
 
Hydro, if the rod is adjusted too tight it can pull the center thrust button into contact with the end of the crank rod and cause the PTO pulley to rotate with the crank.

Ethan, is it possible that you have the bearing positioned a bit to far back on the crank? If so the center button on the PTO would be VERY close to the crank end. If you look again at the cut away view of the PTO that I posted couple of days ago you'll see what I'm referring to.
 
Hydro, I have never seen a Cub Cadet with two jam nuts on the PTO engagement rod turnbuckle, only the one right hand thread nut. The Operator Manuals only mention one jam nut, the Service Manuals only reference one jam nut and the Parts Lookup only list one 1/4-20 nut. Perhaps you had a Cub Cadet early on where the PO installed a secondary left hand thread jam nut.
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