Archive through February 02, 2019

[ksymons]

Wayne, I actually think this guy has done a good number of separations but not certain about that. Either way, thanks. As to all the linkages, I didn't quite follow the instructions and may have disconnected a few items at other than where was suggested. I thought that the main point was to make sure the trans is still not connected to anything that would prevent it from splitting. I'll check out the trunnion when I get to that point. I basically follow what you're saying but, again, you're referring to components I've never worked with since owning the tractor.

Kraig...rest assured I have LOADS of pictures and notes going back to when I first embarked on removing the engine. Quite honestly, that was also a job I wasn't sure I'd actually get all the way through, so I'm hopeful that having been able to remove an entire engine and all that was attached to it, that this transmission job should be doable also.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Keith, the parts lookup refers to #1 and #2 as a union. I've never had that style apart but I believe you would use two wrenches one to hold one hex "nut" and one to turn the other hex "nut" however I'm not sure which one you hold and which one you turn.

I'm guessing that #2 threads onto #1... so... I think you would use one wrench to hold #1 and use a second wrench to turn #2.

Oh, and

on the "LOADS of pictures."

 

[ksymons]

Kraig....hmmm...guess I'll have to experiment. I was thinking it looks like the sort of thing that will take two wrenches. Maybe somebody else will chime in.

Yeah..I've got pictures, just hope it helps as much as I'd like when it comes time to put everything back together - not just this trans job but also the new engine. Disassembly is everybody's favorite.

 

[dschwandt]

Hold #1 with an open end wrench, the correct size of course, then loosen #2 all the way, it should slide down the tube exposing the flare.

The tube has flares on each end that prevent the flare nut from coming off.
End #3 is an inverted flare nut and unscrews completely from the case.
Once those fitting are both un-done and the flares slid onto the tube a bit, there should be enough "slop" in the tube assy to remove it.


This would be an ideal time to change the fluid and filter, then you will know just what you have. Be sure to record the date and hrs. if applicable/known some where. I keep a card file on each of my Cubs and whenever I do something to one of them it gets noted on the card to go with the unit to a new owner when/if it changes hands

 

[ksymons]

Thanks David, for the explanation. Sounds like you are really up on the maintenance, what with such detailed record keeping. I'm impressed! I started by doing that sort of thing, and have a few written pages that cover pretty accurately perhaps the first 10 years I had the Cub. Then, over the next 20+ years I sort of got lazy about it, not to mention busy with lots of other things. So many mechanical issues have occurred during that time, that I failed to record everything I've done to it...or had done to it. This tractor sure doesn't owe me anything though - bought it for $500 back in '81 - and it has been the only tractor I've ever owned or used up until this past September. Guess that is as good a testimonial as any that speaks to the durability of these machines!

 

[ksymons]

I notice the instructions posted here mentioned that permatex gasket sealer was applied to the mating surface before reassembly. Says it's optional though.. Any thoughts? Wasn't planning on adding any sealer.

 

[mgonitzke]

I have not put gasket sealer on those that I have done, and so far I haven't had any leaks, but I don't think it would hurt anything at all to do it that way. I do put gasket sealer (aviation non-hardening stuff) on rear cover gaskets, though.

Whatever you do, don't use RTV.

 

[nbodin]

On the hydros I have done that I have taken the pump off I remove the rearend from the frame, and then block it up so it is sitting on the rear cover. If you just recently changed oil tape the vent shut so it doesn't leak oil. Use the air gun or pressure washer to blow off as much crud as you can so it doesn't drop in rear end when you remove pump. The reason I block it up on its tail is so when you put pump back on it is easier to set straight down on the rear end and not have the possibility of the gasket moving out of place

 

[ksymons]

Nate...thanks for this advice. Would not have thought to move it to that (upright) position...if I read you correctly. I plan on just keeping it on the jack - strapped to it preferably as suggested in the instructions. I've been cleaning as much dirt as I can all around the trans ever since I took off the fender assy and could get to it. Will get everything as clean as I can before pulling the pump.

 

[rrschmitt]

Keith S,

You don't need any gasket sealer for the cork gasket. New cork gaskets are a composition of rubber/cork material and come with a piece of white wax type backing paper attached on one side. Under the wax paper is adhesive for sticking the gasket to the hydro pump's mating surface. It holds the gasket in place during installation of the pump to the transaxle housing and improves sealing. The three holes in the gasket go towards the bottom and align with the two bolts and return orifice below the output shaft. Carefully align the center hole with the orifice hole so there is minimal blockage by the gasket of the return orifice.

IMPORTANT: Make sure you drain the oil out of the Hydro pump as much as possible and thoroughly clean the mating machined surfaces of both the hydro pump and transaxle housing where the gasket is installed to remove any dirt contaminants and oil residue. I like to use a good carb cleaner or brake cleaner fluid that you spray onto the surfaces and wipe off with a clean oil free cloth or shop towel. This will help ensure no leaks at the cork gasket interface.

Also, I recommend you thoroughly power wash the hydro pump and transaxle assembly once you remove it from the Cub's frame to remove as much of the oily dirt and residue from all surfaces, nooks and crannies as you can before you remove the pump. This will be especially helpful if you end up having to go inside the pump to replace any seals that may be leaking or do the trunnion repair, etc. If you are not planning to replace the HyTran at this time, then put a piece of duct tape over the breather plug at the top back portion of the transmission housing to prevent water ingression into the reservoir.

If you haven't changed the HyTran in more than 5 years I also second David S's suggestion to pull the back plate off to drain the HyTran, clean out any moisture goobers the HyTran has suspended on the bottom, thoroughly remove the old back plate gasket residue from both mating surfaces, flatten out any volcanoed holes in the plate, clean all surfaces and threaded holes with carb/brake cleaner to remove oil residue, install a new gasket w/a good sealer (no RTV silicon)and bolt the back plate back on. I also like to put a dab of gasket sealer on each bolt as well to seal the threads as sometimes the threaded holes were drilled through slightly into the reservoir during manufacturing and then will weep oil out. Refill the reservoir with 7 quarts of fresh HyTran once you have the pump back on and everything sealed up.

Hope this helps. Ask any and lots of questions as there is a wealth of knowledge to tap into here on the forum.