Archive through February 01, 2017

[eford]

Well I mocked up my hitch adapter idea today, but the cardboard layout makes no sense unless you're inside my head already. I may have to look through my parts and do it that way. I'll post one anyway I guess.

The 2 lower arms are meant to pivot at the lower IH 3 point bracket on the rear end as well as pivot on the piece going to the lift rod from the upper casting. The sleeve hitch attachment would hook up where the normal adapter does, but would remain parallel to the ground when raised like a category 0 or higher 3 point hitch.

 

[eford]

Nick, are you sure the forks are not bent? Only other thing is the gears could be stripped. How do they look?

 

[ekincaid]

Earl Thanks for the help it was pretty easy to rebuild that pto I'm just concerned that the problem with the pto is maybe that the center spring is junk I was kinda disappointed when I got it all back together and it didn't work this is my first cub and first rebuilt so bear with thanks again

 

[sblunier]

Earl,

You would be much better served copying the examples like the RPRU 782 or Richard Christiansen..........your geometry and lengths will make strength of construction materials an issue.

 

[eford]

I figured it was too much to make. Rough early estimate was about 16-18 inches out from rear end. Reading thru all the times people tried to remake the upper casting usually resulted in failure. The only part that would hold up might be the piece the attachment hooks to. I thought I could go a cheaper route than buying a cat 0 from Xtreme, but the materials and equipment use most likely won't equal out. Plus I'm sure someone out there at some time tried it only for it not working out. Well I'll go back to the drawing board and see if I go one of those routes, or save my pennies.

Ethan, your braver than me on rebuilding the PTO! It may be the spring is shot. I'm sure an expert will chime in soon enough.

 

[eford]

My real goal was to have it back able to move from tractor to tractor like the original brinly sleeve hitch adapter can. I really wouldn't use it other than my 10 inch brinly plow. Couple other sleeve hitch attachments I have work fine with the original adapter. I got a little ambitious, but you never know!
If I look at the serial number on the 1200 maybe I can find the winning lottery numbers

 

[sblunier]

Earl,

Look REALLY hard at that 782 pic......it's doeable, and moveable (if done right), and you can leave the top casting (critical part) intact.

A plate that bolts top the drawbar with a 5/8" bolt and catches the lower sides of the sleeve hitch bracket could easily serve as the mounting for the lower arms.

 

[ekincaid]

I'm hoping an expert will chime in that's had a similar problem with mech pto set up seems like when pressure is applied when the tractor is off that pto thrust button is slanted a bit to one side even though i followed the torque specs in my blue ribbon service manual for re tighten the nuts on the back side of the pressure plate

 

[hydroharry]

Ethan - what was in your kit? The rebuild kits I've seen come with the fiber disc and the all important tri-shaped spring, and the adjusting measurement tool.

If the tri-shaped spring is bad you usually won't be able to get the spring tension to adjust and measure correctly within spec using the tool. If you believe the tension does measure correctly then it could be one of the following:

1 - The gap setting between the fiber button and the PTO steel button. I don't recall the spec off hand but it's in the service manual. I believe as long as you have a very slight gap (at least .001) you should be able to engage/dis-engage the PTO.
Since you say yours won't dis-engage (stop your thrower) the first thing I'd try is pulling all the way back on your PTO handle (lever) and hold it back to see if your PTO does dis-engage. If it does stop then the PTO clutch does work and you just need to shorten the gap between the fiber button and steel button (tighten the turn-buckle). BUT for your final adjustment you need to set the gap at the maximum possible and still allow the PTO to engage/dis-engage. If you have to much pressure on the fiber button when you dis-engage you'll just wear the fiber button down to nothing.

2 - it could be your PTO handle (lever) has a worn detent stop and it's not holding the lever in place enough to dis-engage the PTO. If that's the case you may be able to overcome it by adjusting the turn-buckle a little tighter but make sure you still have some gap at the fiber button when the PTO is engaged.

3 - if it's not 1 or 2 above then you probably have a weak tri-shaped spring. Last I knew you can't buy this spring without buying the complete rebuild kit. (CC Specialties at the top of this page has the complete kit with this spring).

I'd suggest getting a spare new fiber button if you get a kit (it's not in the kit) or get one of the aftermarket bronze versions.

Hope this helps figuring it out. It's takes a little to begin understanding how the PTO clutch really functions and operates but by going thru these things you should develop and understanding. In the end the clutch is quite simple and easy - even tho it has a lot of little important pieces that all need to work.

(Ethan - I was typing when you added your last post. Sometimes the steel button isn't aligned perfectly with the fiber button but it's usually not a big deal if that's your additional concern. However your steel button should NOT be loose and should not slip around if you push it by hand. It should be holding the 3 ears in place and be quite snug. If the steel button is loose you've assembled something incorrectly or something is broken. Can you post any closeup pics?)

 

[ekincaid]

Ok Harry thanks the kit I got was actually very comprehensive I found it on <font color="ff0000">&#149;</font><font color="ff0000">&#149;</font><font color="ff0000">&#149;</font><font color="ff0000">&#149;</font> it had new fiber disc,throw out springs,all new bolts and nuts,new pto bearing and spacer collar,thrust button and brass button on the lever.it came with an alignment tool and when I used the tool all seemed in spec.ill have to work on figuring out how to get pics on here I'm probably the only thirtysomthing male in America that's not so savvy with such things.oh I almost forgot when I pulled the lever back I notice flakes of the new brass button flying off,I didn't want to press any harder on the lever for fear of damaging my new repair parts