Archive through December 31, 2018

[mgwin]

Everyone must be out working since it is not raining today. I think it has rained every day for the past six months!

I was hoping for some cub time, but time ran out.

Busy trying to clear up all those trees that blew down when the hurricane came through Oct.11th.
Dang, what a big mess I have!!! At least 50+ trees down.

 

[dkirk]

I received a nice e-mail from Jim Storma today, inquiring about how to break-in a rebuilt Kohler engine. Here is a post from many years ago that I put together on what I recommend:

Proper Break-In Procedures for Rebuilt Kohler Engines

Proper break-in of your engine is vital in assuring long life and dependable performance. Follow the procedure below to accomplish this.

1. Fill crankcase with 1.5 quarts of 30 wt. non-detergent oil. This is usually available at farm supply stores and most automotive parts stores.

2. Start and run engine at a fast idle for 15 – 30 minutes. Shut down and allow to cool to ambient temperature (takes about 2 hours). Re-torque cylinder head bolts to 30 ft-lb. Failure to do this can possibly result in a blown head gasket in a relatively short period of time.

3. Run engine as you normally would. Do not “baby” or run at slow speeds…keep the rpm up as this provides proper airflow for cooling and assists in ample lubrication.

4. After 5 operating hours, drain crankcase oil while engine is hot. Replace drain plug and refill crankcase with 1.5 quarts of 30 wt. non-detergent oil.

5. After 5 more operating hours, drain crankcase oil while engine is hot. Replace drain plug. Refill with 1.5 quarts of a name-brand, 30 wt. detergent oil (do not use 10W-30, only straight-weight 30).

6. This oil may be run for 25-30 hours before changing, which is the normal change interval for Kohler engines. Always change oil when the engine is hot…this removes more particulates. At 50 operating hours, the engine can be considered fully broken in.

Change oil at 25 – 30-hour intervals for the life of the engine. If this is done faithfully, the engine will last many thousands of operating hours. Always use a good grade of 30 wt detergent oil for summer operation. If operated in the winter, 10W-30 may be substituted to allow easier starting in cold weather.

Another option after full break-in is to use a multi-viscosity, full synthetic oil. Synthetic oils are much more suitable for use in air-cooled engines due to their higher operating temperature capability. Their chemical stability at elevated temperatures maintains viscosity over time (they don’t “thicken” as quickly as mineral oil) due to less oxidation. This is evidenced by how little the synthetic oil darkens over the change interval as compared to the mineral counterpart. I have run Mobil 1 10W-30 year-round in my K301 Kohler since 2001. The engine cranks and starts easily in the coldest of weather and oil consumption during the summer months is virtually nil. The change interval of 30 hours is maintained (about what I log in 1 year). I highly recommend this oil based on my experience with using it.

Make it a habit to always check oil level before using the tractor! An air-cooled engine will use some oil during operation – this is normal. Keep crankcase topped off at the “full” mark on dip stick.

Always check flywheel blower screen for grass clippings and chaff that can block cooling air flow. Don’t let buildups occur – this can drastically shorten engine life by causing overheating.

 

[jbratton]

Hello guys,
I’m currently in the process of tear down my ‘Original’ Cub and making a list. I have a question, what is the difference between part number ih 376 160 R1 and ih 384 664 R2? These are rear axle bushings. One has a grease oil and one doesn’t? Is one a better quality?
Thanks for your help guys.
Justin

 

[digger]

Justin B.
Stick with the IH-376160-R1. The 384664 will work if you drill the side hole, but it's not made specifically for the Original.
Both are about the same quality wise.

 

[jbratton]

Digger,
Thank you for the quick response and help!

 

[dquillen]

David K. Great post on break-in procedure. I like to take it one additional step and AFTER break-in, add ER (Energy Release) to the synthetic oil. It's been a game changer in every engine I've owned. Thanks again.

David Quillen

 

[dropte]

David K -
Thanks for the writeup. Do you feel that a break in procedure on an oil filter engine would be any different? I.E. on a KT-17/M18 with the oil filter, or CH command?

Was always told that non-detergent oils won't suspend particulates so that they can fall out of solution instead of being carried around the engine, but with an oil filter to filter them out, you might not have the same issues?

Been running Acela SAE 30w in the M18 I rebuilt last year with a good Wix oil filter on it, and the oil was basically new when I changed it and the filter after the first 5 hours.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Sure is slow around here...

 

[lkortkamp]

With no real room in the garage to work on the 127, it's under the nose of my trailer til warmer weather. Though it hasn't been brutal cold yet, still colder then I want to tinker outside. It runs fine, but want to update the wiring and get the electric lift installation completed.

I've got big truck projects I'm attending to right now in the garage.

 

[sblunier]

..A teal Original with Simplicity fenders and a Jacobson grill........odd looking.....glad they went the direction they did!!!!