My advice on putting the engine back together is download the Kohler service manual and follow the instructions for reassembly. Make sure the oil hole in the connecting rod faces the right direction. And use assembly lube. It's not that bad of a job. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
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Archive through December 30, 2011
- Thread starter ljones
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Mike P.-
The 59M is simply a shredder in my opinion. I see this discissed all of the time. I've got a Kemp, a Mighty Mac, and a 59M and do a lot of shredding/chipping. I never put anything bigger than 3/4" in the shredding hopper. Both the Kemp and the Mighty Mac have the chipper and that's where the bigger stuff goes. I don't even go over about 2 1/2" with the chipper because it's so slow. The literature says 3" limbs but that's sales pitching if anything. A stout piece of 3" wood would take a while pushing it through the chipper. Now if the wood is partially rotted that's another story. The chipper makes short work of such wood and the shredder can even handle the same if rotted enough. I use the 1" screen all of the time. All three of mine have it. I've heard guys say the bar screen is better for limbs and such but the wear and tear factor will show its face if the shredder is constantly abused with the bigger limbs. The machine will rock and roll and spit out what you put in but it's good to have limits. A guy on another site recently told me IH made basically a 59M with a side mounted chipper. I have never seen this machine but the smaller, wheelbarrow style machines IH offered had the side chipper just like my Mighty Mac because the same company made them for IH. They were the 35P, 59P, and the 79P and had 3hp, 5hp and 7hp respectively. I'm not sure whether the 35P had the chipper but the other two did. Maybe someone will chime in with that info.
Good luck making that mulch!
The 59M is simply a shredder in my opinion. I see this discissed all of the time. I've got a Kemp, a Mighty Mac, and a 59M and do a lot of shredding/chipping. I never put anything bigger than 3/4" in the shredding hopper. Both the Kemp and the Mighty Mac have the chipper and that's where the bigger stuff goes. I don't even go over about 2 1/2" with the chipper because it's so slow. The literature says 3" limbs but that's sales pitching if anything. A stout piece of 3" wood would take a while pushing it through the chipper. Now if the wood is partially rotted that's another story. The chipper makes short work of such wood and the shredder can even handle the same if rotted enough. I use the 1" screen all of the time. All three of mine have it. I've heard guys say the bar screen is better for limbs and such but the wear and tear factor will show its face if the shredder is constantly abused with the bigger limbs. The machine will rock and roll and spit out what you put in but it's good to have limits. A guy on another site recently told me IH made basically a 59M with a side mounted chipper. I have never seen this machine but the smaller, wheelbarrow style machines IH offered had the side chipper just like my Mighty Mac because the same company made them for IH. They were the 35P, 59P, and the 79P and had 3hp, 5hp and 7hp respectively. I'm not sure whether the 35P had the chipper but the other two did. Maybe someone will chime in with that info.
Good luck making that mulch!
Bernie P. - Ewwww to L&G tires with NO inner tubes. My last job at IH FARMALL was tire/wheel/rim buyer and one of the biggest complaints about the 86-series tractors was the fact we used all tubeless tires on the 2 WD frt tires and two sizes of rear tires. Even with brand new tires & rims/wheels the percentage of flat tires from tubeless tires was about ten times higher than for tube-type. And even with just low tires on tubeless fronts you can pop the tire off the wheel when making short turns. You won't do that with tubes installed.
I run tubeless tires on my cars & trucks but everything else gets inner tubes.
I've heard of people using RV antifreeze, windshield washer fluid, even used auto antifreeze for fluid ballast before. Like I said in my last post, it still makes repairing a tire puncture about three times harder and longer. The one rear tire I removed the fluid from ths summer had close to 500 pounds of fluid in it. Needless to say I didn't set that tire/rim in the back of my pickup by hand.
With cast iron ballast you can add & remove weight quick & easy and tune the tractor's traction/weight to the job your doing. I always run some weight on the back of my CC's, about 70#/rear wheel on my 72 & 982, and 26# on the wheels of the 70. But I can add & subtract weight in a few minutes on any of them for specific jobs.
I run tubeless tires on my cars & trucks but everything else gets inner tubes.
I've heard of people using RV antifreeze, windshield washer fluid, even used auto antifreeze for fluid ballast before. Like I said in my last post, it still makes repairing a tire puncture about three times harder and longer. The one rear tire I removed the fluid from ths summer had close to 500 pounds of fluid in it. Needless to say I didn't set that tire/rim in the back of my pickup by hand.
With cast iron ballast you can add & remove weight quick & easy and tune the tractor's traction/weight to the job your doing. I always run some weight on the back of my CC's, about 70#/rear wheel on my 72 & 982, and 26# on the wheels of the 70. But I can add & subtract weight in a few minutes on any of them for specific jobs.
Dennis Frisk
(just fighting a miserable Wireless broadband internet connection that won't work more than a couple minutes )
I bet I bought 6 of those so far.My last is a cisco and it is 2 years old. I went through a pile of the cheaper junk till I was told to buy one of these.
I can tell you all what a pain I had with chloride in the tubes of my 100.by the time I noticed a leak the rim had no paint left and was rusted. I will never use it again. But tubes are the only way to go in tires that you might want to run on low air pressure to get more traction. Like Denny says , the tire will stay on the rim with tubes installed.
(just fighting a miserable Wireless broadband internet connection that won't work more than a couple minutes )
I bet I bought 6 of those so far.My last is a cisco and it is 2 years old. I went through a pile of the cheaper junk till I was told to buy one of these.
I can tell you all what a pain I had with chloride in the tubes of my 100.by the time I noticed a leak the rim had no paint left and was rusted. I will never use it again. But tubes are the only way to go in tires that you might want to run on low air pressure to get more traction. Like Denny says , the tire will stay on the rim with tubes installed.
DON - I upgraded from 3G to 4G in August this year. We went thru our Cell Phone provider, We're on module #3 since then, first one lasted FIVE weeks, next one a couple months, this one we got a week before X-mas. I'm about ready to throw the thing in a snow drift if we had any snow around here!
From what I've read, with today's FWA high HP ag tractors, POWER HOP is a HUGE problem in some conditions where your pulling heavy drawbar loads. I've never run any kind of tractor with enough HP to power-hop but I have had trucks do it, everything from 4WD pickups and even had an empty 10-wheel readymix truck hopping on dry loose sand hills one day. BUT, the new approved way to ballast tractors is to air the drive tires up according to the actual weight they carry and add cast iron weight till you get your slippage in the 5-10% range. It also helps to pull smaller implements FASTER than to try to pull too big of implement. Running faster with smaller implements puts less load on drive train parts, requires less ballast, and compacts the ground less and you still cover as many acres per hour.
I always thought I needed to widen my home-made lawn aerator, sometimes I pull it with the 982 and the aerator is only 32-33 inches wide behind the 42-43 inch wide tractor. I was going to add a wheel to each end making it 43-44 inches wide, but lots of times I pull it with the 72 which is only 35 inches wide. But after this year aerating with the K321 in the 72 for the first time I need MORE LOAD. I might end up making two more wheels and getting a longer i" dia steel shaft for it for next year. But unless conditions are too wet I won't have to add any weight to the 72 to pull it. Back when I had the K241 in the 72 the aerator was a real good load in 2nd gear.
From what I've read, with today's FWA high HP ag tractors, POWER HOP is a HUGE problem in some conditions where your pulling heavy drawbar loads. I've never run any kind of tractor with enough HP to power-hop but I have had trucks do it, everything from 4WD pickups and even had an empty 10-wheel readymix truck hopping on dry loose sand hills one day. BUT, the new approved way to ballast tractors is to air the drive tires up according to the actual weight they carry and add cast iron weight till you get your slippage in the 5-10% range. It also helps to pull smaller implements FASTER than to try to pull too big of implement. Running faster with smaller implements puts less load on drive train parts, requires less ballast, and compacts the ground less and you still cover as many acres per hour.
I always thought I needed to widen my home-made lawn aerator, sometimes I pull it with the 982 and the aerator is only 32-33 inches wide behind the 42-43 inch wide tractor. I was going to add a wheel to each end making it 43-44 inches wide, but lots of times I pull it with the 72 which is only 35 inches wide. But after this year aerating with the K321 in the 72 for the first time I need MORE LOAD. I might end up making two more wheels and getting a longer i" dia steel shaft for it for next year. But unless conditions are too wet I won't have to add any weight to the 72 to pull it. Back when I had the K241 in the 72 the aerator was a real good load in 2nd gear.
Dennis F. I do run tubes in the front tires and would never go without them but when I purchased a new set of rears tires 5 or 6 years ago I went tubeless and have never had a leak problem. I only do a few things with my tractor and have never needed to adjust the air so just keep it at the recommended pressure. I guess I just run too much weight on rear and needed something in addition to the cast iron weight that didn't make the tractor wider. Current set up is 7+ gals in each tire (56+ lbs), I also have cast iron weights (Not cub but aftermarket 60+ lbs) per tire and have a 5 gal bucket full on concrete on the 3pt hitch. Total weight just under 300lbs without my heavy butt in the seat. Boy the machine will push some snow and haul some firewood.
I haven't needed to patch the rear tires yet and yes it will be a pain in the butt with fluid.
I haven't needed to patch the rear tires yet and yes it will be a pain in the butt with fluid.
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- Allen Schumacher
Don, think I'm gonna pass on that question...
Quick question here,
Has anyone tried the speed up mod by going up a tooth on the smaller sprocket on their snowthrower.Going from a 14 to a 15 tooth changes the final ratio from 1.714 to 1.6.The speed increase may be not be noticed but would keep the gear box speed down.
Will the 15 tooth sprocket fit? I may have a look at this tonight.
Has anyone tried the speed up mod by going up a tooth on the smaller sprocket on their snowthrower.Going from a 14 to a 15 tooth changes the final ratio from 1.714 to 1.6.The speed increase may be not be noticed but would keep the gear box speed down.
Will the 15 tooth sprocket fit? I may have a look at this tonight.
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