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Archive through December 30, 2010
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Charlie, I saw the two feet of snow in an email earlier this week...
Charlie,Had trouble getting things worked out after 1st pic.I'll learn with everyones help.
Thanks for yours.Severe tstorms, heavy rain and possible tornadoes for late tonite and early morning here in central MO.
Melody,
I would rather have something other than a cab on my O.
Besides when we do get snow here I don't get to
play with my CC'S. I work for my towns PUBLIC WORKS.Spend my time in a 05 F-350 pushing snow.
ROD
Kraig,
Do you have any pics of a 'O' with duals/ without cab?I like that B-W pic of the O with the cab.
Anyone: Does the same cab fit the O as the rest of NF CCs.I see in pics that the cab on an 'O'
has holes for BB36 control rods come through.
ROD
Do you have any pics of a 'O' with duals/ without cab?I like that B-W pic of the O with the cab.
Anyone: Does the same cab fit the O as the rest of NF CCs.I see in pics that the cab on an 'O'
has holes for BB36 control rods come through.
ROD
Ray L.
I havn't been able to find any more of those as of yet. So for now the throttle shaft kit
or the the throttle shaft bushing is all there is that I know of.
I havn't been able to find any more of those as of yet. So for now the throttle shaft kit
or the the throttle shaft bushing is all there is that I know of.
mfrade
Well-known member
I'm just the opposite Jeff. Newest tractor in my "fleet" is the 1970 "73" !! The 2 others are Tigers from the 50's.. I've never even sat on a wide frame! Here's hopin' you have a Happy New Year!
bperegrine
Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2005
- Messages
- 23
- displayname
- Brian Peregrine
That's a nice O Rodney, kinda looks familar. I probably should have brought it to my house. Seems like everytime I buy an O with hopes of fixen her up and adding to my herd I end up selling it. It's probably better off in your herd.
Hey Everyone, new to the site but have checked it out a couple of times. I have a couple of questions to start. 1st Does anyone have any experience putting a haban 42 snow thrower on a Cub 149? I recently picked up a Haban snow thrower that was supposed to fit the wide frame Cubs. After mounting it on the tractor the snow thrower gear box pulley was still about 2" fwd of the engine clutch pulley. I was able to modify the existing mount so the pulleys lined up (I assume the Haban came off of a newer wide frame). Now that it is mounted anytime I get into snow it slips the belt (checked and the clutch is not slipping). On this snow thrower the gearbox mount has a pivot on one end and a slotted adjuster on the other side. Now this may be my brain fart but I assumed that the weight of the gearbox was what held tension on the belt and the slotted end stayed moveable so the belt would slip when the blower got bound up but now I am wondering if the slotted end should be tightened.
2nd question is about the voltage regulator on the 149. It has the delco-remy points style regulator. I have had nothing but trouble with this. I just got it adjusted and working properly this summer and I ran the tractor the other night with the lights on and noticed it was no longer charging again, I was wondering if anyone new of a solid state regulator to put on this tractor in place of the old one. Thanks for any info.
2nd question is about the voltage regulator on the 149. It has the delco-remy points style regulator. I have had nothing but trouble with this. I just got it adjusted and working properly this summer and I ran the tractor the other night with the lights on and noticed it was no longer charging again, I was wondering if anyone new of a solid state regulator to put on this tractor in place of the old one. Thanks for any info.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jeff P.-
The H42 is for the later 82 series tractors. Yes, the belt needs tension on it...the weight of the gearbox will not be enough. The belt neeed to be rather tight. There are a couple of things working against you here. One is that the 82 series tractors have the engine mounted at an angle, and the gearbox on the thrower should also be at an angle to account for this. This will cause belt misalignment if used on an earlier tractor. Also, the pulley on the thrower is for a 5/8" belt; your smaller belt may be bottoming out in it and slipping.
To my knowledge, there is no solid-state replacement for the electromechanical voltage regulator. How do you know the regulator's bad again and it isn't the starter/generator? Temporarily ground the 'F' terminal on the starter/generator while the engine is running. If it pegs the ammeter to the charge side, the problem is not the S/G. If it doesn't, it probably is the S/G. Don't leave that connected for more than a few seconds or you'll destroy the windings in the S/G.
Melody-
NF = narrow frame and WF = wide frame.
The H42 is for the later 82 series tractors. Yes, the belt needs tension on it...the weight of the gearbox will not be enough. The belt neeed to be rather tight. There are a couple of things working against you here. One is that the 82 series tractors have the engine mounted at an angle, and the gearbox on the thrower should also be at an angle to account for this. This will cause belt misalignment if used on an earlier tractor. Also, the pulley on the thrower is for a 5/8" belt; your smaller belt may be bottoming out in it and slipping.
To my knowledge, there is no solid-state replacement for the electromechanical voltage regulator. How do you know the regulator's bad again and it isn't the starter/generator? Temporarily ground the 'F' terminal on the starter/generator while the engine is running. If it pegs the ammeter to the charge side, the problem is not the S/G. If it doesn't, it probably is the S/G. Don't leave that connected for more than a few seconds or you'll destroy the windings in the S/G.
Melody-
NF = narrow frame and WF = wide frame.
wmakowicki
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2010
- Messages
- 62
- displayname
- Wayne Makowicki
582 motor removal is easy. The %82 16HP briggs is cake to remove. pull the hood drop the electrics, remove the bolts and is slides forward so easy. My 1200 is difficult to get at the engine bolts and no easy sliding forward. I will say the Kohler 12 HP has a bunch more weight to it. the briggs is no big deal to just lift, the Kohler is not so easy to pick up and carry around the shop. Well put a new front seal on the briggs and its holding oil very nice now.
Matt
Thanks for the response. I figured the h42 was from a diff model. I noticed that it looked like the gearbox pulley was at a slight angle so when I repositioned the frame locking bar I was able to straighten out the angle to match my engine. I did see that the gearbox pulley was a 5/8 and I checked in grainger and can get a proper size pulley for about $13, I dont think the belt is bottoming but I am still going to get the correct pulley.
As far as the s/g being bad I hope not cause I just had it rebuilt a little while ago. Yes I am being optimistic but what can I say. I will do the check you mentioned tonight when I get home. I also figured it would be the voltage reg. cause I had such a hard time getting it to charge in the correct range. I was thinking that it has sat for a month or so since I last mowed the lawn till now and maybe one of the points got dirty or stuck. I will check it all out and get back to you. If it is the regulator it might just need to be adjusted again, maybe someone has a good method of adjusting them. It took me a while last time. Thanks again
Thanks for the response. I figured the h42 was from a diff model. I noticed that it looked like the gearbox pulley was at a slight angle so when I repositioned the frame locking bar I was able to straighten out the angle to match my engine. I did see that the gearbox pulley was a 5/8 and I checked in grainger and can get a proper size pulley for about $13, I dont think the belt is bottoming but I am still going to get the correct pulley.
As far as the s/g being bad I hope not cause I just had it rebuilt a little while ago. Yes I am being optimistic but what can I say. I will do the check you mentioned tonight when I get home. I also figured it would be the voltage reg. cause I had such a hard time getting it to charge in the correct range. I was thinking that it has sat for a month or so since I last mowed the lawn till now and maybe one of the points got dirty or stuck. I will check it all out and get back to you. If it is the regulator it might just need to be adjusted again, maybe someone has a good method of adjusting them. It took me a while last time. Thanks again
tdelikowski
Active member
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2007
- Messages
- 43
- displayname
- Tony Delikowski
I recently purchased a power steering unit from an 1862. I would like to put this on my 982. Will the steering column fit on a 982 just like it is or do I have to make some modifications to it. Some good info here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
rlegatesjr
New member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2010
- Messages
- 2
- displayname
- Robert Legates Jr
Hello. I'm new to the forum and have a 125. I have the snow plow and the mower deck for it. When I remove the mower deck I can not figure out how to remove the belt. Currently it is taped to the underside of the tractor to keep it from dragging on the ground. Is there a way to remove the belt?
ROBERT - Welcome to the CC forum. There's a few people here who will feel you have the BEST Cub Cadet model ever built, and I have a similar model from the same era, a # 72.
When I remove the mower deck from my # 72 I can get the mower drive belt off by pulling the PTO lever beyond the stop and letting the lever forward until it rests on the tractor frame. That opens a gap between the engagement lever in front of the engine & the PTO clutch itself to CAREFULLY slide the belt either UP through the gap or push the belt DOWN carefully and then pull the belt out from the front of the tractor. Be careful to not put any force on the fiber wear button on the end of the engagement lever that contacts the PTO clutch itself, it's pretty fragile.
If your lever won't pull gently out beyond the lever stop on the steering column, you will have to loosen the turnbuckle on the control rod between the PTO lever and the engagement lever, the turnbuckle is just behind the starter/generator, use a 7/16" open end wrench to loosen the lock nut, and a few turns of the turnbuckle and you should be able to get the belt out.
Also, it's recommended for our vintage CC's to ENGAGE the PTO so the pulley is turning when the engine is running when you don't have a PTO operated attachment on, so return the turnbuckle & control rod to it's former length, and leave the lever in the engaged position. Newer CC's beginning with the first wide frames, 1X8/1X9's had the PTO lever on the left side of the steering wheel, and have a safety switch that won't allow the starter to spin the engine with the PTO engaged, so they have to disengage the PTO before starting, then engage the PTO, but with our older tractors we can leave them engaged all the time.
When I remove the mower deck from my # 72 I can get the mower drive belt off by pulling the PTO lever beyond the stop and letting the lever forward until it rests on the tractor frame. That opens a gap between the engagement lever in front of the engine & the PTO clutch itself to CAREFULLY slide the belt either UP through the gap or push the belt DOWN carefully and then pull the belt out from the front of the tractor. Be careful to not put any force on the fiber wear button on the end of the engagement lever that contacts the PTO clutch itself, it's pretty fragile.
If your lever won't pull gently out beyond the lever stop on the steering column, you will have to loosen the turnbuckle on the control rod between the PTO lever and the engagement lever, the turnbuckle is just behind the starter/generator, use a 7/16" open end wrench to loosen the lock nut, and a few turns of the turnbuckle and you should be able to get the belt out.
Also, it's recommended for our vintage CC's to ENGAGE the PTO so the pulley is turning when the engine is running when you don't have a PTO operated attachment on, so return the turnbuckle & control rod to it's former length, and leave the lever in the engaged position. Newer CC's beginning with the first wide frames, 1X8/1X9's had the PTO lever on the left side of the steering wheel, and have a safety switch that won't allow the starter to spin the engine with the PTO engaged, so they have to disengage the PTO before starting, then engage the PTO, but with our older tractors we can leave them engaged all the time.
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