So I decided to do a little cleanup today with the 149 and you guessed it, something broke again.
Did I mention how much I dislike 149's!
Did I mention how much I dislike 149's!
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Archive through December 30, 2009
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Brendan, not sure what the file size limit is for profiles, probably the same as for general posting.
Charlie, neither of my two 125s or my two 105s have that part.
Charlie, neither of my two 125s or my two 105s have that part.
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Neither do my 1872 or 2072!
Got my 129 back on all 4's yesterday. Despite the cold, the new spindle went on quickly. What didn't go so smoothly was the wheel bearings. The outside bearing was OK, but the inside bearing ran loose inside of the wheel center. When I pulled it off, the bearing rolled to someplace that probably won't be found until the relatives settle my estate (hopefully not for many years). Since I needed a bearing, I decided to remove one from one of my turf wheels I took off to install the tri-ribs. The first bearing cracked and spilled its contents all over the floor, but the second one came out intact.
I was wondering how much success any of you guys have had redoing the inside of the wheel where the bearing seats, as in brazing or welding new material in there, then filing it out to its proper dimension so the new bearings seat tight?
Charlie,
That shouldn't be Too much of a challenge now, should it?
I was wondering how much success any of you guys have had redoing the inside of the wheel where the bearing seats, as in brazing or welding new material in there, then filing it out to its proper dimension so the new bearings seat tight?
Charlie,
That shouldn't be Too much of a challenge now, should it?
KENDELL - I apologize for "Upsetting Bender". hehehe
BRUCE N. - Not sure about brazing/welding material in the bearing bore on front wheels but I've had success sliding a small piece of brass shim stock in the bore with the bearing.
CHARLIE - That's either one of two possible choices, the arm on the lower end of the hydro control lever in the steering column, or a home-made steering arm, but since a 149 is a WF with the steering arms part of the spindle fabrication I'm leaning towards my first guess.
BRUCE N. - Not sure about brazing/welding material in the bearing bore on front wheels but I've had success sliding a small piece of brass shim stock in the bore with the bearing.
CHARLIE - That's either one of two possible choices, the arm on the lower end of the hydro control lever in the steering column, or a home-made steering arm, but since a 149 is a WF with the steering arms part of the spindle fabrication I'm leaning towards my first guess.
Hi,
Does anyone know which battery compartment sizes are correct for the 70 and 100? My cubs have both smaller and larger ones ... Did IH consistently use one size on the 70 and a different size for the 100, or was a modification made during their production runs?
Does anyone know which battery compartment sizes are correct for the 70 and 100? My cubs have both smaller and larger ones ... Did IH consistently use one size on the 70 and a different size for the 100, or was a modification made during their production runs?
Bruce,
I'll assume that welding up the ID of the bearing bore is going to involve using a lathe to rebore after welding. Having access to a lathe leads to a couple other possible solutions.
You might be able to make a resizing die to press over the OD and shrink the tube back if it's only slightly oversize. The die will have to be hardened to hold up. The tube wall may be too thick and/or there may not be enough tube sticking out past the weld for this to work.
Chuck the rim up and cut the old tube out. If you want to you could replace it with a heavier wall tube to avoid having to repeat the process in 40 years.
If you know anyone who does any spinning, they might be able chuck up the wheel and spin the tube ends back to size. I'm not saying for sure that this is possible because I have only a general knowledge of the process, but it's worth investigating.
Jerry
I'll assume that welding up the ID of the bearing bore is going to involve using a lathe to rebore after welding. Having access to a lathe leads to a couple other possible solutions.
You might be able to make a resizing die to press over the OD and shrink the tube back if it's only slightly oversize. The die will have to be hardened to hold up. The tube wall may be too thick and/or there may not be enough tube sticking out past the weld for this to work.
Chuck the rim up and cut the old tube out. If you want to you could replace it with a heavier wall tube to avoid having to repeat the process in 40 years.
If you know anyone who does any spinning, they might be able chuck up the wheel and spin the tube ends back to size. I'm not saying for sure that this is possible because I have only a general knowledge of the process, but it's worth investigating.
Jerry
kide
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Charlie:
If you don't like 'em, send all of them down this way, I'll provide a good home. Looks like somebody was getting training in welding the day that arm was done
Tim T:
You get that regulator adjusted??
Dennis:
More I think about it, that's really Binder, Bender's brother (he wraps corn stalks for a living)
If you don't like 'em, send all of them down this way, I'll provide a good home. Looks like somebody was getting training in welding the day that arm was done
Tim T:
You get that regulator adjusted??
Dennis:
More I think about it, that's really Binder, Bender's brother (he wraps corn stalks for a living)
Thanks kendell and charlie. Thats exactly what I was looking for! But, I havent messed with it yet. Yesterday I kinda rebuilt the generator. I put new bearings and brushes in it. Ever try to take one of those apart that havent been open in 20 years? Especially not really knowing what your doing!? LMAO.It starts but stil doesnt generate electricity.Never will. Previous owner operatedit with a bad front bearing. the Armature rubbed against the magnets and wore the armeture and magnets to the point of non repair.I have a new s/g for it. Thats why I gotta figure out how to adjust the regulator. Ill get it figured out. Good news is,my head lights flicker now. Which means the rebuilt s/g is trying to work. MEAN FREAKIN MACHINE that it is! My wife calls my cub, my girlfriend...Shes cool with it tho. She knows us boys must have our TOYZ!!
Bruce N I have had good luck using a punch or chisel and a hammer. Just tapping the wheel where the bearing goes every 20 degrees or so all the way around to reduce the size of the opening a bit. Do it lightly and go all the way around. Then try the bearing. If its still to big repeat as necessary. Roger
Roger H. and others,
I have tried the tapping method, using heat from a MAPP torch to help the process along but for a deeply grooved surface, the bearing usually works itself loose again. I've tried to use a small arc welding rod to build up the inside. That approach usually results in burn through when I try it when you are working with thin metal to begin with.
The shim stock idea sounds good, and I have a source for some suitable material, but I feel it is still only a temporary solution. If I can get the part hot enough with a MAPP torch to braze and get the material to stick, I could file it back out to diameter with either a half-round file, or Dremel. One of these days I might get my engine lathe together and use it as well.
I have tried the tapping method, using heat from a MAPP torch to help the process along but for a deeply grooved surface, the bearing usually works itself loose again. I've tried to use a small arc welding rod to build up the inside. That approach usually results in burn through when I try it when you are working with thin metal to begin with.
The shim stock idea sounds good, and I have a source for some suitable material, but I feel it is still only a temporary solution. If I can get the part hot enough with a MAPP torch to braze and get the material to stick, I could file it back out to diameter with either a half-round file, or Dremel. One of these days I might get my engine lathe together and use it as well.
bbrigham
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Steve...Now why didn't they teach me that math when I was in school......
Now this really sucks, we got 2" of snow this morning so I thought great....some much needed quality Cub time. I rushed to get my wife's POS laptop fixed and I still got left out. I looked out when I was finished to see my landlord plowing with his truck
My poor Cubs probably feel neglected.
Now this really sucks, we got 2" of snow this morning so I thought great....some much needed quality Cub time. I rushed to get my wife's POS laptop fixed and I still got left out. I looked out when I was finished to see my landlord plowing with his truck
My poor Cubs probably feel neglected.
