This is a better sketch.
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Archive through December 29, 2012
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
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HYDRO, WAYNE - When I repaired the manual lift lever on my 129 back in about 1990/1991 I had to buy a new inner rod and at quite a high price I might add... and it was a 2-piece welded rod so YES, at some point IH/MTD did make a 2-pc welded rod, and I'm sure it was a long 5/16" rod with a short piece of 3/8" rod welded on at a 95-100 degree angle per Kraig's sketchs.
And for the record, with the new float lock button, spring, washers, & top button, etc. it worked quite well for as long as I owned the tractor. Hardest thing on those manual lift levers (and the rest of the tractor too) is to store them outside in rain, snow, etc because they rust up. Keep them inside away from the weather and they work well for decades. A couple drops of oil every year or two keeps them working better too.
HARRY - I couldn't add anything to your "Great Taillight debate" because I bought the taillights for my 129 from Blain's Farm & Fleet, just something that fit and matched the holes, and never copied the numbers on the lens down, but I did write the part number and drew a dimensioned sketch of the inner lift rod in my parts book for future reference.
Lot easier working on a WF lift lever than it is a NF lift lever, or at least you don't need an acetylene torch to bend the inner rod on a WF like you do on a NF.
And for the record, with the new float lock button, spring, washers, & top button, etc. it worked quite well for as long as I owned the tractor. Hardest thing on those manual lift levers (and the rest of the tractor too) is to store them outside in rain, snow, etc because they rust up. Keep them inside away from the weather and they work well for decades. A couple drops of oil every year or two keeps them working better too.
HARRY - I couldn't add anything to your "Great Taillight debate" because I bought the taillights for my 129 from Blain's Farm & Fleet, just something that fit and matched the holes, and never copied the numbers on the lens down, but I did write the part number and drew a dimensioned sketch of the inner lift rod in my parts book for future reference.
Lot easier working on a WF lift lever than it is a NF lift lever, or at least you don't need an acetylene torch to bend the inner rod on a WF like you do on a NF.
Kraig-
That brings back memories as to why I flunked geometry. I was on the other side of the angle but I'm sure my point was taken.
Dennis-
That's just really hard to believe and I'm still not convinced. I don't mean to sound hard headed but I can't believe IH would go to that expense when a bend worked so well. I've seen so many bent 5/16" rods plus the casting as I spoke of before accepts the 5/16" so much better. The 3/8" "tip" doesn't allow the play that helps smooth out the overall action with the ratchet so therefore I can't be convinced. I have had several rods with the welded 3/8" tip and they ALL were a pain.
That brings back memories as to why I flunked geometry. I was on the other side of the angle but I'm sure my point was taken.
Dennis-
That's just really hard to believe and I'm still not convinced. I don't mean to sound hard headed but I can't believe IH would go to that expense when a bend worked so well. I've seen so many bent 5/16" rods plus the casting as I spoke of before accepts the 5/16" so much better. The 3/8" "tip" doesn't allow the play that helps smooth out the overall action with the ratchet so therefore I can't be convinced. I have had several rods with the welded 3/8" tip and they ALL were a pain.
WAYNE - Don't know what to tell you other than maybe you should have bought my old 129 when I sold it 6-1/2 yrs ago. The lift lever on it worked great after I fixed it. The 3/8" piece that was welded on fit great in all the slots on the quadrant.
The only issue I ever had with the lift lever after I fixed it was the roll pin holding the cast end of the lift lever to the end of the rockshaft did work it's way out every now and then, but a short piece of safety wire through the middle of the roll pin fixed that issue.
Yes, a bent 5/16" end of the center rod would work also but it wouldn't be as tight in the quadrant as it should be. The NF quadrants have smaller slots.
The only issue I ever had with the lift lever after I fixed it was the roll pin holding the cast end of the lift lever to the end of the rockshaft did work it's way out every now and then, but a short piece of safety wire through the middle of the roll pin fixed that issue.
Yes, a bent 5/16" end of the center rod would work also but it wouldn't be as tight in the quadrant as it should be. The NF quadrants have smaller slots.
akleyla
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- Amy J. Kleyla
Mick,Thats what I wanted to hear. I think we are going to look for a 42" and another 104 for my BF. I like the cab ya have on yours ! I so want one of those....they have to be warm,at least im guessing.
Harry will you buy me one of those cabs for my cub? LOL,joking of course
I had a down day today so I spent the day relaxing here and didnt get out to clean snow. Its snowing her e again anyways so ill get up in the am an clean it.I think ive just over done things here the last two weeks an needed a break ! Sounds like trial an error is best for most cases.
Harry will you buy me one of those cabs for my cub? LOL,joking of course
I had a down day today so I spent the day relaxing here and didnt get out to clean snow. Its snowing her e again anyways so ill get up in the am an clean it.I think ive just over done things here the last two weeks an needed a break ! Sounds like trial an error is best for most cases.
Wayne S.
Don't let Kraig mess with ya. What he was really showing was the temperature difference in Minnesota, between summer and winter, LOL
Those squiggly lines are actually the sign for BIG WIND below zero.
Don't let Kraig mess with ya. What he was really showing was the temperature difference in Minnesota, between summer and winter, LOL
Those squiggly lines are actually the sign for BIG WIND below zero.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Kraig - in my post I said slightly "less" than 90* so "ya got me". I really meant what you're showing marked as ~100*, and since we're talking about it, just how do you do this stuff? Do you do drawings and pics all day long at work and just do this stuff on a whim?
Dennis F - you're terrific.
Wayne - gol'dern'it. I'm gonna have to get out my BFH and fix your hard head!
You been fixing all those other ones ALL THE WRONG WAY!!!! Now what ya gonna do?
Dennis F - you're terrific.
Wayne - gol'dern'it. I'm gonna have to get out my BFH and fix your hard head!
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- Home of the Plow Special
I spent a couple hours in the garage tearing the engine out of the 169. At this point it's looking like it will be getting a new hyd lift arm under the dash, a frame cleaning, and a few other smaller details.
Oh, and what do you think of these?:
Balance Gears
<font size="-2">I think they're going bye-bye!</font>
Oh, and what do you think of these?:
Balance Gears
<font size="-2">I think they're going bye-bye!</font>
Harry-
I don't think I have the only hard head here. There's no way to prove anything either. The part is nla and the parts look up shows a bent rod...no weld. I think had there been a weld there it would have looked different. The part may have even been nla when Denny bought his and an aftermarket took its place. I can make one to look brand new myself. Who knows now???? No, I'm still not convinced and all present evidence shows that I haven't been wrong. 20 members can say there was a welded version and I wouldn't be convinced. There are just too many "fixed" rods out there today because it was an easily abused part of the tractor by both implement and operator.
Ball's in your court.
I don't think I have the only hard head here. There's no way to prove anything either. The part is nla and the parts look up shows a bent rod...no weld. I think had there been a weld there it would have looked different. The part may have even been nla when Denny bought his and an aftermarket took its place. I can make one to look brand new myself. Who knows now???? No, I'm still not convinced and all present evidence shows that I haven't been wrong. 20 members can say there was a welded version and I wouldn't be convinced. There are just too many "fixed" rods out there today because it was an easily abused part of the tractor by both implement and operator.
Ball's in your court.
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- Allen Schumacher
Art, Where did you get a Cub Cadet floor jack ? ?
Home of the Plow Special
I would never start that tractor again with those loose balance gears (wow) ; the needle bearings must be missing some on that post that the gear sits on.
I like it when people post pictures and show other interesting items in the back ground . Like a rather large bearing
?
makes me wonder what does he have that for ??
I see you have a spare hydro there also ?? And what might be a rear end for a newer Tractor that is not cast? and some kind of tray top left?
I would never start that tractor again with those loose balance gears (wow) ; the needle bearings must be missing some on that post that the gear sits on.
I like it when people post pictures and show other interesting items in the back ground . Like a rather large bearing
makes me wonder what does he have that for ??
I see you have a spare hydro there also ?? And what might be a rear end for a newer Tractor that is not cast? and some kind of tray top left?
Norm Bartee
Well they do. but I just got and email from the book people that if I put a note to them in the note section of my order they will ship USPS .I guess I will get to read that book after all.
My order was for 75$ including shipping;UPS charged 11.91 tax 29.70$ brokerage fee and tax again of 4.46$ for a total 45.35$ . So spending 75$ by CC I had to spend the $45.35 to get my parts . UPS will never get
from ME ever again. I will not buy from anyone if that is the only way they will ship to me.There I`am done with my Rant .
Well they do. but I just got and email from the book people that if I put a note to them in the note section of my order they will ship USPS .I guess I will get to read that book after all.
My order was for 75$ including shipping;UPS charged 11.91 tax 29.70$ brokerage fee and tax again of 4.46$ for a total 45.35$ . So spending 75$ by CC I had to spend the $45.35 to get my parts . UPS will never get
And Little Donnie Tanner would bitch if ya hung him with a new rope!
You guys buying that book, did read that it was a reprint didn't ya?
You guys buying that book, did read that it was a reprint didn't ya?
hydroharry
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Wayne - I guess my BFH wasn't big enough. But that's ok. You're right about not being the only hard head here. You gotta believe what you gotta believe. And you're right, we'll never know for certain unless someone can come up with a NOS inner rod that is "not" welded. I wish I knew if the bent rod was original and IH made the production change during the run of 1x8/9 units. Maybe there is someone out there that has both versions in their spare parts bins. I think one certain way to know it was a production change is that the overall length would be the same on the non-welded and welded versions. I'm also wondering about the button on the top of your repaired versions, and the float lock button. Can you post some pics of a repaired version? I'd like to see how far the button sticks up on the top, both in the lock positions and in the float position (with the float lock button engaged). I'm still hoping we get more input of what guys have out there. Are their's the welded tips or bent versions?
Come on guys - let us know if your 1x8/9 manual lift has a bent or welded tip on the bottom of the rod in your manual lift arm.
(There - dribble, dribble, dribble, 3-POINTER - please step out of bounds to initate your turn)
Come on guys - let us know if your 1x8/9 manual lift has a bent or welded tip on the bottom of the rod in your manual lift arm.
(There - dribble, dribble, dribble, 3-POINTER - please step out of bounds to initate your turn)
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Harry B - I'm getting a little gun shy about asking these quick questions, but...
Is it possible that the list rod ( bent vs welded) occurred when IH changed over to the 44A/50A decks?
Is it possible that the list rod ( bent vs welded) occurred when IH changed over to the 44A/50A decks?
HARRY, WAYNE - The new rod I installed in my 129 was special ordered from my local CC dealer along with some other parts that I always had to special order. They stocked next to nothing for CC's over 5 yrs old. So the rod was still available back in '90/'91 as a 2-pc weldment. I don't think that dealer would have had the ambition to make the part or to even look for a non-OEM part. The fit was perfect too. A LOT more parts were still available for these old tractors back then. Not at all like today.
The two piece rod was a LOT harder, read more expensive, to make than a 1-pc rod, so IH/MTD made the part that way for a reason. There were two pieces of steel rod to accurately cut to length, then the 5/16" one had to be threaded on one end, and then there had to be a fixture to hold both pieces at the proper angle and distances to weld. Lot more labor & capital intensive than simply bending one end of a 5/16" rod and threading the other end. As I've had suppliers kid me before about what some parts ended up costing, "If it was simple, we couldn't charge you so much", and was why the part was so expensive back then. I probably don't have the receipt anymore but I seem to remember it costing around $40 in 1990 Dollars. And the steel to have made several of them at home would have maybe cost $10, plus I had the welder, tap/die set, etc to make them. I could have figured out the angle eventually.
But yes, no doubt in my mind that it was an OEM part made from two pieces welded together.
ART - You going to just remove those gernade gears or are you going to install one of Dave Kirk's balance plate kits? It's a shame IH/Kohler installed those gears way back then. If they hadn't, a lot more of these old Kohler engines would still be running.
The two piece rod was a LOT harder, read more expensive, to make than a 1-pc rod, so IH/MTD made the part that way for a reason. There were two pieces of steel rod to accurately cut to length, then the 5/16" one had to be threaded on one end, and then there had to be a fixture to hold both pieces at the proper angle and distances to weld. Lot more labor & capital intensive than simply bending one end of a 5/16" rod and threading the other end. As I've had suppliers kid me before about what some parts ended up costing, "If it was simple, we couldn't charge you so much", and was why the part was so expensive back then. I probably don't have the receipt anymore but I seem to remember it costing around $40 in 1990 Dollars. And the steel to have made several of them at home would have maybe cost $10, plus I had the welder, tap/die set, etc to make them. I could have figured out the angle eventually.
But yes, no doubt in my mind that it was an OEM part made from two pieces welded together.
ART - You going to just remove those gernade gears or are you going to install one of Dave Kirk's balance plate kits? It's a shame IH/Kohler installed those gears way back then. If they hadn't, a lot more of these old Kohler engines would still be running.
Harry, Wayne I think both of you are correct. When I worked for a living we had some small brackets that were formed. Long story short, the dies broke and we needed some fast, our plate shop cut and welded some brackets and we used them up until another die was made (about 4 weeks if my CRS is correct). We must have used about 1000 before they were back to forming them. This was in the early 80's so I doubt any are left in active use, but our passion runs even earlier than that thus there could be some make-do parts out there.
