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Archive through December 29, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Art,
I don't have any data I can put my hands on as to what AMC blocks Louisville cast, other than what I've heard former employees say (our IHCC Chapt 24 secretary, Billy Lands, was one of the pattern shop super's). Besides the 258 6, they also did the crank and maybe the block for the 327 AMC V8. I'll see Billy at a Chapter meeting in late Jan and will ask him for more info.
 
PAUL - All I can tell you is, that if IH made it, it had an IH part number on it someplace. ;-)
 
Paul R. -- I prever IH engines to AMC for Scouts and pickups, but if you have your heart set on an AMC engine, why not track down one of the pickups with the 401? I think they were used in '74 and/or '75 due to high demand for 392s in the bigger trucks. I've seen a couple of them over the years. Both were 2wd with automatics. I'm sure they'd be quite capable of hauling a few Cub Cadets. Jerry
 
I guess we should have at least ONE pic of a Cub Cadet on this page today.
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just got the block back from the mower shop. block was honed, valve job was done along with cut seats, guides were knurled, and the crank pin was cleaned up. i also got new valves, piston, rings, gasket set, connecting rod and anything else required to put it back together. everything was also properly cleaned and throughly degreased. everything was also measured to assure that it is correct and proper. the whole thing cost me 400 bucks, but i should have an engine that should last many years. i was told to use assembly lube when i put it back together and break it in with 30W oil with zinc. im going to start re-assembly soon and should have a running engine soon. i know its going to be a k301 and that the tractor orginally had a k321, but the original block was destroyed. i hope i didnt get hosed on the price of the work, i know that this type of machining work doesnt come cheap.

also bought a set of blue poin feeler gauges
 
Charlie, EXCELLENT choice! BTW, I posted two photos of my Original and Paul B., reposted a cropped and edited version of one of my photos, soooo, that 125 was the 4th photo of a Cub Cadet.

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Charlie, way to post a 125 and make ART happy! I mean Kraig, well Art too. Mine pictured here has been very busy pushing snow this winter, my borther-in-law is SUPER excited to have it help him.
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Well here's a pics showing it running after I worked on it a couple hours.
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ANDREW - Hope you have an inch/pound torque wrench, also a piston ring expander helps. I still use an expanding sleeve piston installer, the tapered ring or sleeve type are nicer but Mine works with MANY different sizes of pistons.
Hope you got the complete gasket/seal kit in there too.

The straight NON-Detergent 30W oil is recommended for break in, but I wouldn't run it more than 5-10 hours tops. I actually drained my K321 after 45 min to an hour and put fresh 30W ND in. Not sure how much ZDDP is in 30W ND oil, I suspect not much, but since you can compress the valve springs enough with your fingers to get the keepers in the spring retainers I'm not sure how important it really is in a Kohler. Make sure you get the cam followers in the same positions as they were in, it's best to make sure the follower wears on the same lobe of the cam. And wipe them down with your assembly lube on the cam lobes & followers.

I used Federal-Mogul assembly lube in my K321 but have used Lubriplate assembly lube in a plastic tube with good success.

I think to price for machine work and all those parts is pretty good. Just be careful and CLEAN when assembling everything.
 
i have a torque wrench that is in ft/lbs i was told i could convert the in/lbs in the book to ft/lbs, but i dont know how accurate that would be. i might go up to harbor freight and purchase a in/lbs torque wrench.
 
I've driven by Snowblower sitting against a garage at a neighbor's house for a couple years. Today I realize it is not a snowthrower - QA-42A - could it possibly a Model 450?

The guy has a 1450, I am 99% sure he got this snowblower along with his 1450. Could it be a 450 or something else? Would a 350 fit a Quietline or wideframe? If so I am thinking it will look nice on the front of my 149.

Might have to do a closer inspection this weekend. If I do I'll take pics.
 
andrew dononhue
Well I see I`am going to have to get another torque wrench also. I have two now and they are both FT LBS . one for wheel nuts on my truck and car and the other for more percise work .
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i bought the ft/lbs torque wrench to work on my chevy 350. i have done extensive work on that engine as well, including head swaps, cam swaps, timing chain, ect. i just love working on engines of all different types and sizes. i also did a head gasket to my 2.2 in my 91 cavalier. i even volunteer and a local warbird museum, i reinstalled 14 spark plugs on a pratt and whitney R1830. i dont know ALLOT about those big aircraft engines, but im learning a little at a time, they are complex animals.

i called autozone and they have an in/lbs torque wrench for $21 and assembly lube. im going to go up autozone tomorrow anyways, time to change the oil in the car anyway.
 
Vincent Thomley

Parts look up under attachments for the 1450 say 190-364-100 45" snow thrower IH design and a QA 36a and the QA 42 A are listed.
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Vince, it could be an H42 or even an H48 (Haban built for IH) They are snowthrowers. Unless you've verified that it is a two stage snowblower with an impeller... Then-->
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Hey guys,been busy at work here since boxing day.We have two Solar IH gas turbines for emergency power and are constantly having issues with one fuel control valve.Put in a 15 hour day on boxing day.
To keep it on topic all this talk of power angled blades got me itching for one.I just made a deal over the phone for a 1650,new paint and decals,blade,hyd.angle,wheel weights,chains and ags all round.here's a pic of it.
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ANDREW - IMHO, the head bolts & rod bolts are the most critical fasteners that need proper torquing, there's no main bearing cap bolts in a Kohler or they'd be tied for #1 in my book.

A ft/pound torque wrench will work, if the book calls for 240 inch pounds, divide by twelve, 20 ft pounds. But the problem is that ALL torque wrenches are most accurate at the top of their torque range, the percentage is different for ALL torque wrenches, depends on brand, but NO torque wrench should be trusted in the bottom 20% of their range unless specifically calibrated for those low torques. I use a 3/8" Craftsman bending beam T-wrench for my small stuff, think it goes to 500-600 inch pounds. My Craftsman Digi-tork 1/2" click-stop goes from 25 to 250 pounds feet. I almost bought a 3/8" Digi-tork when I built my K321 but it wasn't worth the $100 just to have the speed of the click stop over my bending beam for two rod cap bolts & nine head bolts.

Ohhh and NEVER loosen fasteners with a torque wrench, ONLY tighten them. Some people may disagree, but friends of mine have loaned me torque wrenches they depended on to do good work professionally and insisted I only use them to tighten bolts. I have OTHER tools to loosen them. I was told by them and other reliable sources that this kncoks them out of calibration quicker.

I'm a Tool JUNKIE, but not a tool Natzie, I don't make my living with my tools so to date, I only have ONE Snap-On deep well 3/8" drive 1/2" hex socket which was left hanging on a bolt on my truck from somebody at a body shop who repaired my grill 7-8 yrs ago. Most of my stuff is Craftsman, and lately I've gone with their better Professional grade wrenches. But for something like a torque wrench I would try to stay with a name brand like Craftsman, Proto, S-K, Kobalt, Allen, even Wright. A H-F T-wrench would probably be O-K, but I consider them something to hold onto for generations so I spend a bit more for what should be better quality. The wrench from AZ should be fine.

My Father-in-law was an Airforce mechanic in the Korean War. He spent a L-O-T of time wrenching on those huge radial engines. I just have a hard time understanding how ANYONE can afford to run something that burns 60+ gallons of high octane aviation gas per Hour per engine.
 
Andrew, you do what you want but assembly lube for me is a 50/50 mix of STP oil treatment and straight 30 wt. Mix it in a clean container big enough to submerge the piston.
 
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