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Archive through December 28, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Well I got the Cub shifting good again. I opened up the cover on the top of the trans and while I was looking around I didn't see anything broken, but I did align these two pieces that I believe are part of the shifting forks-

233906.jpg

Like this

After I got the cover with the shifter back on, it'd go into all gears just fine. Don't know if it was aligning those two parts or just repeatedly shifting the bugger after it was sitting awhile.

After I finished this little endevour, I found the source of the only noise I haven't silenced on this thing- a rattle that only stops if I hardly depress the pedal, but not engaging the clutch. I looked up underneath the tractor while it was running, and saw that the drive shaft wasn't spinning nice & straight until I hardly depress the pedal. I killed it and tried shaking the drive shaft and found it a little loose on the trans. end- How would that coupling be tightened?
I didn't see any visible bolt/nuts loose
 
Im new at this garden tractor thing. I bought a cub with the vin#42056 and was wondering what year this is. Also somebody painted over the engine decals and would this be a 7hp kohler. Where can i get carb kit complete and other parts thanks Bony
 
Clark, I looks like your bottom fork is bent. Take that bolt out, it might fall apart. It being bent is not good, if it is broke it's probly moving a lot more than you think when shifting. I've had two forks broke that looked fine before I pulled the bolt.
 
Glenn "B",
Thanks for joining us, and welcome aboard! Glad to see that some people just drop in to post a FREE Classified ad aka "1 n d" ( I'm sure you guys have asked yourself what that is). According to my stuff your tractor is a 1962 and yes a 7hp.
 
Glen, in reference to the headlights on my 1250:

NAPA sells rubber grommets that are made to mount 4" diameter reflectors and lights on semi trailers. The 4411 headlights will fit into these grommets. The grommets mount in a 4-1/2" hole, which I was able to cut in my panel. The front on the grommet is larger than the available height of the panel, so I had to trim a little off of the top and bottom of the front face of the grommet.

It is a little snug to install the 4411 sealed beam in the back of the grommet after it has been installed in the panel, but it works. I am happy with the results. Let me know if you need any more information.
 
Glenn B several of the sponsers above- click on their banner- carry your all your cub parts.

also use the FAQ tabs at the top they have alot of info in them

Welcome
 
Ken,Wes
I tried the belt again tonight and got it on.I guess I've never bought a new belt for any thrower,just used the one that it came with.It won't take much adjusting to get it tight.
I guess it will stretch some so I should keep my eye on it to keep it tight.
Thanks
 
Clark, inspect your teaser spring at the front of the clutch, over time that little bugger breaks down,it helps to keep tension on the whole thing, the coupler at the back might be worn enough to give you the wobble in the clutch line, the little colorful boxes above can supply you with a new one if needed,
 
Glenn B. Welcome aboard.
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Norm B. Scott N. is correct. When I had the modification done the shop asked if I wanted the holes drilled out. I told them it wasn't necessary.

Ken F. Would you please post the NAPA part numbers for those rubber grommets. It will help immensely when I make a trip to my friendly NAPA store. TIA!!!

It is 35* here this morning and raining. It's a good thing I did some Cub stuff yesterday. Everyone have a wonderful and safe day.
 
OH No, the hunt is on here for the correct flex coupling for my 125. I have to look because I thought Charlie sent me one.

233933.jpg
 
Its freezing rain here this morning, so why not work on the parts 123 Cub! I'm going to try the slick Steering Wheel Removal procedures (ccFAQ 13) and remove the lights on/off switch. How does one pass the switch thru the mounting hole? (or did I miss that FAQ?) thanks, danWI
 
Another new guy from Wisconsin. Well folks I have been lurking for a few weeks. I got a bug up my butt for something simple and solid to haul my firewood uphill here in southern Wisconsin. I figured that the sixties were good. My car is a 69 and my motorcycle a 61. No plastic on either of them. I bought a Farmall Super C and restored it in the late seventies so I like the brand (wish I would not have sold it). I did look over the Gravelys, Wheel Horses and the JDs. I liked the Gravely 424 because it has an air cooled rear engine like my car. It was complicated though. Same with Wheel Horse. My neighbor has a JD that I have used for mowing. It is all right but I don’t like hydro because it seems like too much magic. I read a lot of posts here and many other places. Yours were the most helpful in deciding on a 122. I found one within an hour’s drive. It was not running well, had bad tires, and no deck. The PO installed wheel weights, a boat seat, and enlarged the air cleaner.

I was not sure what I bought even after asking the right questions and wiggling the S/G pulley, the steering wheel, the front wheels. Got it home where I could get a better look at it and spent the day putting in a new throttle cable, a roll pin in the left side steering pitman, getting the lights working, and tweaking the carburetor. It runs and shifts perfectly. It needs some bearings at the top of the steering shaft so it is not mechanically perfect but close. It needs paint and decals to be perfect. It is already working and it will stay in its work clothes for a while.

I ordered chains for it today. I will wait a few months to see if the tires hold air before putting fluid in them. Other fantasy improvements include ag tires, three point hitch, paint, and authentic seat (in that order).

My question is: Since I don’t know the engine’s history, should I remove the head and check for carbon build up or just put some Sea Foam in the gas tank and hope it cleans itself up?
233936.jpg
 
Jeff, I would look at were the head meets the block and see if you see any blow-by from a blown head gasket..If you see black carbon deposits then take the head off and clean the carbon out and replace the head gasket..I don't use Seafoam, I use Marvel Mystery Oil..Just put an ounce or so in the gas can before you fill it up and you will be surprised at how well it cleans carbon from the cylinder...Helps with valve lubrication too..
 
Jeffery W, Welcome to the best site on the web to keep your new to you 122 in working order. It looks like a good find.
 
Jeff-

Great looking tractor, you made the right choice in a Cub Cadet! I see you're Madison area... I'm out in rural Mazo. If you need a hand with your Cadet or local Cadet part sources, just drop me a email. enjoy, Dan
 
Well my hunt for the flex coupling came up dry. I remember ordering one but somehow I did get the wrong part
bash.gif
. seems this one I have fits the Fits 482, 580,582, 582 Special, 1100,1604, 1606, and more just not the 125.I will install the old one and get Charlie to send me the correct 125 part.It will be awhile till I get the engine ready to drop in So. I got time .
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Don T.
The correct one for the 125 is the one that has the smaller hole.I am sure you will find one in your shop
Dan,
you have to remove the knob first,there is a hole in the stud,I use a nail to hold the stud while you unscrew the knob
 
Lewis Palma

No suck luck,But Charlie has some on sale .
With all these new Cubbers on here you would think they would ask what has been ask before (1000 and ) of times .it would be some thing to keep the mind sharp ?? . I hear Charlie got new snow moving equipment !!! Blowers can be cold but
fast lol. Geterdone Way up there where they don`t get snow any more.


Where `s Denny these days , He must have been a bad boy over the Holiday's ! I miss the good reading
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