Archive through December 28, 2008

[jsdavis]

I have a Question
will the spindels from a 126/129 fit a 123's front axel?

I would like to build the 1000 pound front end and was looking for what i would need from the newer tractor,the whole front axel or just the spindels???

 

[jsdavis]

Kenneth,
did you see the pictures Nick posted (thank you Nick),does that help answer your Question??

 

[sstanton]

Here's a few pics of the spacers I fabbed and the hydro lift mount installed on the 106.

 

[dsacksteder]

I have a k301a from a narrow frame, is there a way that i can tell what series it came from? Thanks,Dustin

 

[kdortch]

jason davis - Well, no it didn't answer my question. I apologize if I didn't make myself clear enough.

I realize the ignition switch needs to be a 3 prong switch that's not in question here. The question I have is if you notice the style of the two switches I posted they are different from each other in that one is the older long sleeve style (I think) with much more thread and an entirely different key than the newer ignition switches. I was asking if others knew if ignition switch "A" was the correct switch to be used? I have the opportunity to get switch "A" but if I do and it's not the correct switch I'm back at square one less the cash. The person selling it doesn't know what CC it came off of so he's not much help. Yes, I've seen the new 3 prong switches on CCSpecialties, but if there where someone out there that knows that the switch "A" I posted is the correct one and would work in my 149 I would get it instead. Guess I was hoping someone would look at it and say "Yes" that looks like the one I have in my 149 and it will work in your 149.

Nick Hasson - Thank you for going through all that trouble to take a picture and post the 3 prong plug for your ignition switch. Do you have the newer version of the 3 prong ignition switch installed in your 149?

Kenneth

 

[jsdavis]

Dustin,
are you asking...is there a way to find out what model tractor the engine you have came from?such as 123,124 ect??The "A" indicates a special oil pan,deep. you probably know but the 122,123,124,125,126,127,and 128 are the narrow frames that used the 12 horse.Do you know how many of thoes models used the deep oil pan??I dont!!,but maybe you can narrow it down that way.You can also check the FAQS,if you click on the link there is one on the A,Q,and S designations and then at the top of the first FAQS page if you click on "Charlies FAQS" #s 20 and 29 have some info you may be looking for on the Kohler!

 

[jsdavis]

Kendell
Remember a week or so ago I posted a picture of the service bulitin for the SG I had? Charlie also posted a link to download it.If I remember right you were intrested if I found out where I got it.Dont know if it matters now/after Charlie posted the link,But Its in Charlies FAQS #47a.Just found it!!

Kenneth
No need to apoligise,You probably know more about the stinkin switch than I do

!!!!!Just trying to help.I dont even own a 149 or even seen one besides here!

Good luck.

 

[dtanner]

Frank #20 and # 8 are nylon bushings so that was the point i was trying to make. I have the right nylon bushing here and will post a picture in the AM if you need it. I know #8 takes out all the slop between the 2 parts and helps to eliminate the problem where the springs wear in a 107,129,149. When i installed a new one and adjusted as per Charlies instructions it worked out great.I`am still learning about these Cubs but i like what i see, simple engineering and mostly and easy fix for the parts that will wear over time. Narrow frames can be a pain with a 14.5 ring size. my mits just find it hard to work in small places. Later Don T

( glad to see your 90 % moved D) Its no fun to set it all back up is it.

 

[dtanner]

Wyatt Compton (Wcompton) Just a thought my 28x30 shop with a floating slab was colour all the 4.5" in thickness. we applied a sealer when it was power troweled .I think about 5 gal was sprayed on the floor. Stains can be washed away with some work. Hope this helps. Later Don T

 

[jdeshazo]

I just purchased a haban 402 d sickle mower and am missng the rear mount that mounts to the hitch and the lift sprint that is hooked to the chain. I think i could build the rear mount if someone had measurements, but not sure what kind of spring I would need. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks josh

 

[mcaruth]

Corey, it says on the bottle how to mix, also look in frequently asked questions section, number #20, it will tell you about mystery oil. I use it in all mine, and they do seem to run smoother, they claim it helps clean engines and keeps valves from sticking. I even put some in with the motor oil...I recommend, good stuff....mike caruth

 

[nhasson]

Kenneth D, I don't know which switch I have. It's the same one that was in the tractor when I got it. Never had any problems with it. I looked in the parts look up and come up with IH-60736-C1. Sorry. Nick

 

[tsmoker]

Dennis F, Robert H - the brake lever is stuck, but not engaged. Maybe it is stuck internal. I won't get to it until later in the week, but I will let you know what I find.

 

[jhanes]

i have an early model cub my son and i are working on.when it runs it runs well. starting is the issue. i rebuilt the carb and it has good spark.the exhaust puffs black right before it starts.sounds too rich,but i have leaned the adjustment.any suggestions would be appreciated.

thanks,
john

 

[gwsmith]

Josh...Re:haban sickle mower....i just went out and mesured mine, it is 8" long X 2" wide..., and is basicly two pieces of flat bar, one 8", the other 5" long and they are welded with a space of 3/8" between them, in which the tow bar will fit into...then on the one end is a muffler style clamp with the rubber bushing.*note*...the clamp is loose fit over the tube/pipe( the clamp supports, but allows the pipe to spin freely inside),.....the spring is also 8" long...

 

[klejeune]

Tom Smoker,
My 100 has the brake puck rusted in the housing. It drags on the brake disc on the main shaft. If I set the brakes to apply it will really get stuck to where I can't hardly roll the tractor by hand, but will move under engine power. I've sprayed PB Blaster around the puck but I haven't had much time to really work on it. I just pulled the transfer pin out and don't worry about brakes... now there have been a couple of times I wished the brakes worked... oh well.

Matt G, I think popped the ball out of the puck and tapped the puck with a 5/8" fine thread tap, run in a bolt and made a slide hammer to pull the puck out without dismantling the rearend. You should drain the tranny fluid first before doing this though. Clean up the puck and the housing and get a new o-ring and put it back together.

Easier said than done.

Good luck,
Keith

 

[bbrigham]

Josh, I think this is the spring you need

 

[dfrisk]

TOM S. - To add to what Keith said, the brake puck He's talking about is about 1 to 1-14" dia and maybe 1/2-3/4" thick and there's a diecast conical "pusher" that the brake lever and steel ball actually push on. The diecast pusher has an o-ring to seal the oil in the rearend. If for whatever reason the pusher or the puck gets stuck in the bore Your brakes will hang up or drag. Last time I had My brakes on the 72 apart was about 17-18 yrs ago. The factory original pucks had cracked and wedged into the bores. There's actually two pucka, one that the brake lever moves and another one behind the brake disc in a blind bore, The front one is easy to get out, the back one probably comes out in pieces after You break it up with a screwdriver.
To replace the pads You really need to remove the reduction housing cover with the whole rearend removed. Polish the diecast pusher up with a Scotchbrite pad, replace the o-ring, and clean the bores out well with the scotchbrite pad & solvent also. A little grease or anti-sieze compound, something to keep the outer bore from rusting helps keep them working longer. The disc for the brake is a loose fit on a splined shaft so it can "Float" between the two pucks. The hardest part of all this is to get the brake lever pivot pin out, it's about 1/2" dia and maybe 2=1/2" long, there's two cast iron ears on either side of the lever on the bottom front of the transmission housing, the pin simply drives out with a punch, but I can't remember what actually holds it in, seems like the brake adjusting bolt & jam nut have to be removed because it passes thru a groove in the pin to keep the pin in.

The good news is the parts are cheap, and if that's what Your problem is once "fixed" You should be fine for another 40+ years.

 

[rmunro]

To Kraig and Don T. About the hydro linkage binding on my 109. When I inspected it I found the white lithium grease I had lubed with was all dried up. An oil can and some engine oil and now smooth as silk. Many thinks for your help.

Now, I've another issue. The S/G was replaced in May with a rebuilt. It charges fine for maybe a half hour and stops charging. It seems maybe as if heat?? is causing this??. Let sit for a few minutes and starts to charge again. Though not for as long since already warm. Should I be looking at S/G or regulator 1st?? Any suggestions welcome. I have an ATV winch I use to raise/lower the snowblade, other than that no other electrical accessories.

 

[nhasson]

Are there any or many differences in brinly one bottom plows? I was looking at one they said come off an old ford tractor. It even had a ford sticker on it (that would be the first thing to come off). I want to get one for my Original but wasn't sure if it will fit. Any help or pics would be appreciated. Thanks, Nick