Archive through December 28, 2008

[bmoore]

Roger M,
Maybe it doesn't need to charge any more. If it's charged the battery after you have run it down a little by starting the tractor, and you aren't running any accessories that need electrical power, it won't need to charge any more. You don't want it to over-charge. What happens when you operate the electric lift a few times? Does it start to charge again? (I assume you're going by the gage) If so, it sounds like the voltage regulator is doing what it's supposed to do. If not, maybe some more info would help us give better answers.

 

[rmunro]

Bruce M.

Testing with a multimeter shows voltage down. And after restarting it did not start to charge, only after sitting for maybe 20 minutes.

During that time I also used a battery charger, and it does take a charge. The 20 minutes brings it back to full.

BTW, the amp gauge has always fluctuated rapidly during normal running, and when winch activated pins full charge. But once it goes to no charge the needle won't move to charge side even when winch used.

 

[dfrisk]

ROGER - Sounds like a voltage regulator issue.

 

[dtanner]

Bruce M. an atv winch draws a lot of power and will be hard on the regulator. My 149 won`t show a charge at idle and will at higher rpm`s I think this is normal for a s/g because mine will charge about 14.5 when charging the battery. I think that you should not use a battery charger and run your Cub at the same time. i`am not sure that is good on your Regulator.if i run my head lights at idle my cub will discharge unless i give it more throttle . Hope this is a help. My .02 Later Don T

 

[kpecor]

looking for answers as to why a clutch flex plate pin would shear off and bend the other pins and wreck the pressure plate. My Brother has a 104 with creeper gear and this happend over the weekend while snow blowing. Wondering if he did'nt have the creeper gear fully engaged or if there is another issue I need to look at...

 

[rchristensen]

Just to add a few comments to the brake scenario, I recently had one stuck on a 1650 and it had a lot of rust on it. Here is the diagram of a 1650 brake system.

You need to completely remove the bolt through item (8) and then drive out item (7)

I had to clean the rust from both items to get them to move smoothly.

Once the arm is removed you can remove items (5 & 6).

The bore where item (3) is located was rusted so I had to spray with PB blaster and clean with emery cloth until I had it clean.

There is no way you can pull the puck (3) out with a needle nose so I used a socket that just fit inside the puck and with a extension on the socket I rocked it back and forth and the puck worked its way out.

Just my .02 cents.

 

[kfiggatt]

I'm having hitch confusion... I have a 126 that I'd like to put a Cat 0 3pt hitch on. Is this possible? Was it a factory option for the 126? I've seen some Cat 0 hitch parts in the for sale section, but it didn't say what models it fits. Are these wide frame parts only?

Thanks,

Kevin

 

[bbrigham]

Kevin P, Not sure what other guy's take on this would be but the only two things I've seen bend or break the pins on the pressure plate are high torque and exceptional traction (pullers) or repeated dumping the clutch trying to do wheelies (wow...look what dad's tractor will do)

Kevin F, One of our very talented forum members makes then and sells them through CC Specialties. Very nice pieces. I would like to eventually get one for my narrow frames.
They weren't offered as factory pieces until the 782 I think.

 

[jstouffer]

Kenneth D I've got a 149 and it has old style key switch in it, looks like a regular key and I believe that's what they came with. Jim

 

[dtanner]

Frank C, here is a picture of the 2 nylon bushings for the hydro 1 is # 8 And 1 is # 20 i think as you can see if the collar was removed from #20 it could be used for # 8. i hope you understand this lol . Later Don T