Archive through December 27, 2010

[mglenn]

Donald Tanner
thank you. So its ok for the seals to be there then? How do the bearings get lubricated then? I was thinking the seals would prevent oil from getting to the bearings.

This is my first engine with bearings, so I wasn't sure about what I found. The old ones are New Departure which are very well made.

 

[dtanner]

Michael Glenn

I think you should look it up and replace what the manual says to do. I never trusted sealed bearings in anything and will check to see if the have grease (if needed).

 

[mglenn]

Don, My thoughts exactly about the sealed bearings. These look to be sealed on the side facing in, and open on the side facing toward outside of engine block. I will have to look at an online manual as I don't have one for this engine yet. Thanks again. Mike

 

[rodsmith]

GRAEME,
Looks beautiful there.Got room for visitors?

Don T.
I like it when we have a disagreement over something. The correct answer is sought out and posted,good for the rest of us.

Rod

 

[wmakowicki]

twin cylinder PCV oil issue. Cub 586 with a twin briggs, one side of motor has oil blowing out pcv tube, the other side is fine. The motor has very good power but could it be blow by on one side? Not wanting to pull it during winter.

 

[mgonitzke]

Michael G.-

The main bearings should be OPEN on both sides. The seal is completely separate from the bearing. Since I'm not sure anybody is really sure what you have, a picture of both sides of your bearings would really help us determine what you need to do.

Wayne M.-

Yes, it is possible. I have a 582 that blew tons of oil out of one side. I used Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil and gas and it eventually mostly subsided. YMMV. First I would take apart the breather for that side and clean it out. They aren't meant to be taken apart, but if you are careful, it can be done.

 

[pfunk]

Did anyone else see the article in “The Best of Farm Show” about penetrating oils? The article said that Machinist’s Workshop “scientifically rusted” a bunch of nuts and bolts and tested different penetrating oils to see which worked the best to loosen the nuts. From the magazine, the results look like this:

Nothing ----- 516 pounds
WD-40 ----- 238 pounds
PB Blaster----- 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench----- 127 pounds
Kano Kroil----- 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone Mix ------ 53 pounds

For the past several years I’ve used PB Blaster to loosen all the rusted bolts on my Cub Cadets. Looks like in the future, I’m going to try the home brew ATF-Acetone mixture. The article indicated it was a 50-50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid if anyone else is interested in trying it.

 

[jheaberlin]

Need a diagram of how a danco bb36 snowblower mounts to a 1962 original cub cadet, thanks jeff

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jeff, here's a LINK to where you can download the manual(s). Note that there are two variations of the BB36, the main difference is in the engagement mechanism

 

[fcurrier]

Paul F.: On the acetone subject, I'm under the impression that nail polish remover is mostly acetone and quite cheap - like maybe a buck at the discount stores?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Paul F., interesting. Over the years I've used PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench and Kroil. I usually have both PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench on hand I find that PB Blaster has worked the best for me of all the penetrating oils that I've tried, but then I don't do my work in a laboratory with scientifically rusted parts. All my rusty parts were naturally rusted due to neglect.

 

[wshytle]

When it comes to penetrating oils I've come to learn they will only help so much. If PB or Liquid Wrench doesn't work I usually start thinking heat or impact wrench. Another determining factor is the price. Kano Industries really think they have something special at about $16 a can. I just got another offer by mail I guess because I gave in to one of their specials a couple of years ago at which time I got two cans for the price of one. I paid $16 for two regular size cans of Kroil and I only use them for special occasions. I guess I can't afford not to mix up a batch of ATF and acetone.

Back on topic....I have decided to just let the hydros rest until spring. They can be a bear to start compared to the GDs. I don't keep any in any heated areas so all are cold...and this is in the south. I can't imagine what yall go through "up yonder" where it's really cold. I'm waiting for a break in the weather so I can get the new to me 147 up and running. I haven't even washed it yet.

 

[dtanner]

Michael Glenn , Matt Gonitzke
Matt from his post(I have my CCO K161 tore down for a rebuild, and found seals facing each other on both crankshaft bearings) ( My question is should the bearings have seals or should they be open to the inside of the engine for lubrication?? ) well my K161 has seal has on both sides of the Crank and the parts list shows them also??

Item 21 seal ,crank case flywheel end.
item 18 are the bearings x 2.
item 19 seal bearing plate.
And I believe the seals should face the bearing on the outside. Matt I realy am lost as to how the oil would stay into the block (
The main bearings should be OPEN on both sides)
please enlighten me

 

[rleo]

Charlie,
In your FAQ section, #24, the throttle repair fix, you use a multi layered washer to replace the bushing.

Where can I get one of those?

Ray

 

[mgonitzke]

Don-

Michael is saying he has sealed bearings. This is what is causing all of the confusion. The bearings in the engine are OPEN on both sides, as in, there is no integral shield or seal in the bearing as there would be in shielded or sealed bearings, respectively. The seal in the K-series engine is SEPARATE from the main bearings. If he installs a SHIELDED or SEALED BEARING, it will not get any oil.

 

[rodsmith]

Well I learned something new today!
I recieved my copy of RED POWER today and turned to YELLOW&WHITE pages first like I always do.
I'd never looked close enough to realize that ORIGNIAL production stopped in July of 1963 and 70-100 started.The 2 70's and other 100 i've owned were 64's and the 100 I have now is a '64'.
So I assumed they started JAN. of 1964.

 

[dfrisk]

RODNEY - like I posted over @ RPM's site, I'm having a real hard time getting past the frt cover of the new RP mag because of that gorgeous 1026 w/ 23.1 x 34 tires on the cover. SHARP tractor!

I iike the Tractor Doctor articles. That guy knows what he's doing! Did you read all the stuff about the IH snow moving equipment? Did you see the section about IH construction equipment? The tractor/loader/backhoe and the stuck squad car, the guy with the TLB pulled the squad car OUT, then the Deputy proceeded to write him a ticket for no SMV emblen, so the guy running the TLB pushed the car back in the ditch? too funny!

 

[rlegatesjr]

Well, I am new to this forum. I have a 1968 Model 125. It is in running condition and I use it as my primary mower and snow plow. I had plans to completely restore it, but I am considering selling it. I still haven't made up my mind. I joined the forum as a resource if I do end up restoring it. Plus, I figured someone on here could tell me about how much it is worth.

 

[dfrisk]

ROBERT - Welcome to the forum, there's many here also in the process of refurbing or restoring CC's this winter. We can help you LOTS with that, everything from the best way to remove paint to what to replace in an engine rebuild, or how to keep your hydro from leaking oil on your garage floor.

The one thing we can't answer is what your 125 is worth. It's actually against forum rules and even if it wasn't there's WAY too many variables in order to give a good answer. My only suggestion is to check the want ads here, maybe CL, Evil-pay, local paper want ads.

I will tell you one thing, there's NOTHING made new that will last as long as your 125 has and when refurbished, your 125 will last longer than anything new you would buy.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Robert, WELCOME!

Denny pretty much covered your query. I'll just say that the 125 is my favorite Cub Cadet.