• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through December 26, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hello everyone,

Kraig McConaughey – Since you have that windbreaker that fits a wide frame and you don't own a wide frame isn't that enough incentive to get one?!?!?!?!
roflol.gif


Paul Dorow
yikes.gif
I'll agree with others here "WOW" that is a great lookin' clean shop. I'd almost be afraid to work on anything for fear of getting the floor dirty. It's so clean you even cleaned the decals off your tractor.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Okay, I need to replace the three prong ignition switch in my 149. I know I can adapt either one if I have to but which is correct one for a '72 149? I know the switch that's in there now is not the correct switch. CC Parts Lookup just doesn't show this switch well enough to make a determination and neither the OM nor the SM shows this switch that I can see.

If ignition switch "A" is the correct one to be used does anyone make these switches any more?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

112120.jpg


112121.jpg



112122.gif

Kenneth
 
Kenneth
I belive the 3 prong is correct,and cc specialties has them!!
the replacement for the 149 is listed there as a 3 prong.
 
After seeing Paul Dorow's garage I felt so bad I spent the day cleaning my garage. I got one bench cleaned off.
 
I have an Original cub and have been reading that they are known for cracked frames.
Where do these usually crack?
What other known problems do they have? (mowing or pulling)
 
Brennan:
I believe the most common place is the area around the lower frame to transaxle bolts. Someplace there were some pictures of somebody's repair on this, but I can't find 'em tonight......Kraig???

As far as problems with the NF's, I'd read all of the FAQs, you'll soon get the picture of where the problems on Cubs are, and most of 'em apply to both NF and WF tractors.. There are literally thousands of these machines still out there both mowing and pulling (just scroll back trough some of the pics to see as many NF's as WF's in action !)
 
Hey guys.Spent some more time on the 127 today.Cleaned the gas tank,replaced the fuel lines and cleaned the bowl.Soaked the carb in cleaner.Also had to remove the fender assembly to access the hydro valves.Yes they are both stuck down.So I cut out a section to access the valves.Removed both and cleaned them up and got them moving well.Now I will add some tangs to bolt the piece back into place along with the release lever.Big thanks to all for the hydro advise.I will get the carb back together tomorrow and start er up to see how everything works.K.W.
 
"there are literally thousands of these machines still out there both mowing and pulling"
How many other machines out there can "boast that"? Very well stated Kendell!
greenthumb.gif

Who knows how many cubs are out there waiting to return to action?
 
Brennan:
I found the thread on frame repair, with some pics...

Todd: 2N,9N, 8N Fords ?? (Dennis Carpenter is making lots of parts for them now, more, I think, than any other tractor..) I'm sure the greenies think theirs would qualify too... I actually tip my hat to a whole slew of manufacturers from the "golden age" before obsolescence was built in to every product. (we've got a 1927 GE Monitor top refrigerator that is still earning it's keep...) Most of the companies are gone...........
thumbsdown.gif
 
Kendell, yup lots of Ford "N"s in use in my area. I am too young for the "golden age", but understand quility in a product. Today's world...built to break,no rebuild,buy another one. Glad I own at least one quaility piece of equipment! WE LIVE IN A THROWAY SOCIETY!
 
Todd/Kendell,

IH made almost 700,000 Cubbies soooo
"there are literally hundreds of thousands of these machines still out there both mowing and pulling"
 
Scott Stanton. I'm installing my hydro lift tomorrow also. If you can wait a day, I'll measure up the spacers and report back tomorrow evening. If you want / need a set made we can talk.
 
Been reading trying to learn about my Original '62 Cub and there are a few things or terms I am not sure about.
First is an Original and a model 70 the same thing?
Second what is a Creeper Drive Unit and can one be used on my Cub.
Third I've been seeing electric and manual clutches on the front of some of the engines. Where these used to activate the mower decks? Mines just a large pulley for the SG and a smaller pulley in front of that. How is my deck (when it get one) activated?

http://www.renaissanceracing.com/Albums/Cars/Pictures/OtherCars/index.html
 
Scott Stanton,
I had this pic on file of the spacers needed for the narrow frame hydro lift unit. Hope it helps.

112137.jpg


I installed hydro lift on my 100 this past summer.

112138.jpg
 
RICHARD C. - On those carbon welding plates & plugs. I suppose carbon would work but most people use copper. Copper works better than brass/bronze but in a pinch they also work too. I found a couple copper slugs Dad used to weld up holes in thin gauge steel. Son & I have used them with excellent results too.

Depending on the situation sometimes You don't even need the pins. The swinging drawbar hole on the Super H was badly egg-shaped and worn on the top surface. Dad welded it all up several years ago and after a few minutes of grinding looks almost "Factory", flat smooth top surface and nice round 1" dia hole. But it's 3/4" thk steel too.
 
Todd H.- You are so right about being a throw away society. People have a little bit of trouble with some thing and they thorw it out and get new. Now they manufacture things to be thrown away on purpose. I'm guessing that most of us here were taught differently or at least recongnize the difference in a quality machine and being able to keep it in repair.
 
Mike, another member posted pics of those spacers I needed. I can fab those pretty quick and without too much trouble. Thank you for the offer though. I will go to my grandads and take over his garage for a few minutes! He has all the goodies that comes with being a 80 year old mechanic!
 
Ron, Frank, - I understand it will do that with the wheels off the ground. I can not move the tractor even in neutral. I verified it is in nuetral by removing the shifter. If I rotate the input shaft there is no movement in the wheels. If I put it in gear and rotate the input shaft then the wheels rotate as they should. I just can not roll the tractor, the wheels want to rotate in opposite directions even in neutral.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top