Archive through December 23, 2004

[kweaver]

well crap I was gonna read the forum and there aint nuttin to read !

 

[dkamp]

Zak-
Since you've got that carb off, check-see that you're gettin' spark... if you are, try'n start the engine by shooting a snort of Tri-Flow or similar (flammable) aerosol lube into the intake... you should get some pops or even a short rip (depending on how cold your work area is). Do get the gas washed-off first...

 

[zfriedman]

How bout hairspray?

All I got is WD-40 and PB. But I still don't have all them engine ground strap wire ignition coil strap etc., so it won't work anyhow.

The carb is looking better but I still oughta get one of them kits. I think the throttle shaft is missing its seal, theres a bit of up and down play.

 

[kweaver]

Zach .. no seal just wear , there's a bushing kit to fix that if it's real bad but you'll have to drill it out ...... hair spray works good on a running engine to find intake leaks but I never tried it like Dave is suggesting ... find some flammable spray and try it ... <font color="ff0000">CAREFULLY!!</font> Might be a good time to start thinking about installing that extinguisher system in the garage

 

[kweimann]

Zach,
Up and down play is normal, that is the clearance between the throttle plate and bore. It is the side to side clearance that causes the vacuum leaks. WD40 and PB are both flammable so either should do well to test it for leakage. Even though the kit is pricey, all the throttle shafts I've replaced make the Carter carb run like new. Kenny.

 

[kweimann]

Zach,
Just read your old posts and saw you had a Walbro. My .02, stop right there and get yourself a rebuildable Carter Model N. Don't get me wrong, when the Walbro's run right they are ok, but most of the used ones I've seen hunt a lot at high rpm due to their lean jetting for emissions. Email me offline and I'll talk to you about things I've done. [email protected] Kenny

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here are more of Todd's awesome 149!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here are some better views of the rear lift.

 

[dkamp]

Zak- you could try hairspray, but I'd recommend something with lubricant in it, too... that way, if it backfires, it won't turn you into Michael Jackson. (Oh- you probably weren't around when he set himself on fire... now you know why he has such a messed-up face!)

 

[kweaver]

<font face="verdana,arial,helvetica"><font size="+1"><font color="0000ff">der santa</font>
</font><font color="0000ff">ive ben a goud boy this yar an aw i wallnt fer chrimus iz tods one4nine</font> %$&%*&&^$##***))*! damn blu run out !

deer santa plez jest sind nother lump o'koal</font>

 

[bwatson]

Zak, try spray carb cleaner for finding vacuum leaks while its running. Spray carb cleaner is much better than ether for starting also. Not as obnoxious either. If you can get the Carter N carb for your engine I would strongly reccomend going that way too. The Walbro carbs aren't as easy to get parts for any more. I have quite a few Walbro's on Clinton engines in my engine collection. Clinton originally used Carter N's as did a few others. Whenever possible I swap the Walbro carbs for Carter N's. Like Kenny says the throttle shaft kit renews the throttle shaft fit to like new for the N. If at any time gas has been allowed to go bad in the Walbro carb it nearly always plugs the idle and low speed circuits. I have yet to be able to get one opened up once it has been clogged. Soaking and compressed air doesn't clear it. I've used acid to restore old carbs with that crusty crud in them that carb cleaner won't touch. Battery acid will dissolve the crusty deposits in about 5 minutes time. After the acid is rinsed out there will be a black residue left in the bowl or on the body. It wipes off easily and leaves a semi polished finish behind and looks like aluminum wheels or fuel tanks on an 18 wheeler.

 

[zfriedman]

Well, I took everything apart, soaked it in the bucket for an excessive amount of time, and put it all back together without a whole lot of trouble.

The carb as a whole looks alot better (in and out) and it doesn't leak anymore, so I did something right. I think I should stray away from the battery acid, I have an alkaline personality. (Nyuk nyuk nyuk. Yeah, thats a terrible joke, I know.)

I did try to give a little WD-40 to her, nothing really happened. But, after I stuck the carb on I took out the plug and set it on the head. I tried it then and maybe, just maybe, I saw a little blue-white flash. I think it was just a reflection from the shoplight behind me.

Speaking of lights, I think I'm going to rig up the lights on my Cub using the two headlights I do have and the taillight I bought using some connectors from my old wiring harness. Why buy stuff, I got diagrams and wire...

Awfully quiet in here, guess everyone is gone off for Christmas. Merry day before Christmas and/or Christmas.

 

[rchristensen]

<font color="ff0000"><font size="+1">Merry Christmas one and all,wishing everyone a Happy Holiday season and a prosperous New Year.</font></font>

Ric<font color="0000ff">hard C.</font> <font size="-2">Where did that blue come from?? I'll bet Ken spilled it.
</font>

 

[pfunk]

Wish anyone wanting snow lived in Southern Indiana. We spent a day and a half digging out. I've had enough of snow to last me for the year.
I don't have weight or chains on any of the Cub Cadet so I had to make do with what I had.

 

[dkamp]

Well, Zak, you're one step closer to running. Pull the dipstick, check the oil level, and see if it smells like gas. Typically not something that happens to K-series Kohlers, but sometimes an overruning carb will fill the cylinder with gas, which will run past the ring-gaps and valve-stems into the oil pan. If there's no gassy smell, the oil's clean.

Ignition... leave that spark-plug out, hooked to the wire, but setting (grounded) against the cylinder head. Bring the piston around to Top Dead Center (where both valves are closed, and points are moving). Turn the ignition on, and rotate the flywheel back and forth about 180 degrees... should get a spark when the contacts open. If not, work on them contacts. Make sure you've got 12v at the coil all the time (when key is on, of course). Hook your meter to coil -. You should see voltage goes from 0 (points closed) to 12v (points open). If not, coil is open. If that's all good, and still no spark, coil is either open in the HV side, or coil isn't grounded well against the block. Improve ground... if still no spark, change coil, change points, change condenser. If you get spark, but also get a big flash across the points, change condenser.

One other principle to note- just because you get spark across the plug when it's out of the cylinder, doesn't mean you'll get a good spark when there's compression and fuel-air mix. Increased density from compression drives the point of coronal discharge way up, so a weenie spark don't cut it. Typical cause for weenie spark on Cub Cadets is bad coil, bad wiring connection, bad coil ground, bad points, or bad condenser... even if the rest of the tractor is good!

{btw... by Coronal Discharge, I mean SPARK, not what happens after you had too much fun at a new-year's party)...

(Message edited by dkamp on December 24, 2004)

 

[krandall]

<font color="ff0000"><font size="+1">Wishing all a Safe and Happy Holliday</font></font>

 

[jvangor]

i need some help here guys, im in the middle of trying to paint my 86, and i cant keep the yellow paint form running, i've mixed it the way i was supposed to, and im not putting it on to thick, nice an thin, i would hate to have to sand blast the fenders again, please give me some pointers
p.s. everyone have a safe and happy x-mas

 

[kdunham]

Happy Holidays everyone! Thanks to Bob n Bryan for the forum,without it there'd be alot of screwed up Cubs and more in the junk too.
Todd M. Beautifully done. That's a perfect example of wandering from the norm and it turning out way cooler than the original. I can't wait to check it out in person!

 

[kdunham]

Jeff V.-
A: Your paint is not compatible with the primer
B: Your paint and pieces being painted are not the proper temperature.
C: There is an oily film on the parts being painted.
D: You are using tractor enamel from Farm and Fleet,bad horrible stuff.
Hope you get it worked out.

 

[bwatson]

Zak, toss that Champion plug. Champion plugs are like cheap reman starters and alternators. You'll go through 3 or 4 before you find a good one. The Motorcraft # is AL7C. I would use either Motorcraft, AC Delco, or Autolite. In lieu of a point file you can use a piece of fine sandpaper and cut through any corrosion or residue so the points make good contact. A .020 feeler gauge will get your point gap close enough to run. A match book cover will do if you can't find your feeler gauge. When you have the points set, pull a piece of clean uncoated paper through them. This will get the dirt, oil, grease, etc that makes points burn quickly. If you can warm the engine with a torpedo heater before you try to start it that'll help. Otherwise if it cranks slowly because of the cold set your throttle at idle and give it a shot of carb spray while cranking. Good luck and Merry Christmas.