Archive through December 22, 2011

[dfrisk]

DONALD - Yep, Cummins don't have glow plugs, most of them have grid heaters in the intake manifolds. Not sure if the new 6.7CTD still do or not and how many of the Dodge Cummins 5.9's did.

Most of the F150 Lightning guys used NGK plugs with good results. I used them in my old OSSA 250 SDR enduro bike and my RD350 Yamaha street bike. I'd foul plugs in the OSSA frequently but the Yamaha with the oil injection never fouled a plug. The old Harley 125 Rapido I had in HS I used Harley plugs made to HD spec's by Champion and I used a WHOLE lot of them.... but that was more the bike's fault. I had to run 20 or 25:1 oil mix and there was no choke on the carb, there was a button on the carb to push the float down and you flooded it to start. If you ran it hard enough, 40-50-55 MPH it wouldn't foul the plug. I learned a valuable lesson about picking the right plug heat range from that bike. In winter I'd run a HOT plug and then go colder in summer when it was warm. One nice spring day when I still had a hot plug in it I was out riding around one nice 40-50 degree Sunday afternoon and was trying to run 55-60 MPH, wide open and over-heated the piston and it cracked & broke the top ring land off the piston and blew some of the bits down into the crankcase where they got into the roller main & rod bearings. The first rebuild was "cheap", about $100 on a $250 bike. The Second rebuild after about 250-300 miles when the roller rod bearing gernaded and wiped out the crankshaft was a LOT more expensive, but my friends at the H-D shop only charged me about $25 for that rebuild. I run COLD plugs now.

 

[proessler]

Steve B. I like your WindBreaker bracket mod, but on my Diesel ( fuel tank under seat ) I'll need a second "field improvement" modification...

Dang,I missed out on a 169 last week.

 

[kphill]

Dennis, Yes Champion used to be the best plug going..I used to use them as well..I think right now that Autolite is the best plug on the market ...IMHO..

 

[dfrisk]

KEVIN - I "THINK" Autolite makes Motorcraft plugs, read that somewhere on the Internet. ;-) I had a brand new '87 F150 w/300-6 that I was changing the plugs out the first time around 15,000 miles and discovered one of the plugs had broken the porcelain around the center electrode, big old chip of hard ceramic went thru my new engine in my shiny new truck. I was NOT happy! I never had that problem ever with the Champion plugs in anything including the several sets of Champions I put in that truck over the next 100,000+ miles. I will admit that the truck seemed to idle just a touch smoother with the Autolites than with the Champions but there was no difference in performance or gas milage.

This Old 1950's technology in these old engines makes me appreciate diesel engines, and the new coil-on-plug ignitions and platimum plugs that last 100,000+ miles! I know I went thru at least THREE OEM sets of plug wires on that '87 F150 and it was one of the best designed engines for plug wire life, the plugs were on the driver's side of the engine and the intake & exhaust were on the passenger side.

GARY Haynes - I checked that site this AM and that topic fell off into cyber-space a year ago! But THAT was the fix I will do to my B48G sometime. I even have enough Moly-filled nylon scraps from a plastic supplier I dealt with years ago to make dozens of those little plastic pieces.

The plan for now is to baby the 982, watch the RPM and repair the governor when I have the engine out and apart for rings & a valve job in the future.

Those old Onan horizontal twin engines powered thousands and thousands of Miller & Lincoln generator/welders and had to hold close RPM's to maintain good welding and generator performance. I guess the problem never appeared in that application because the load hit the engine hard enough to shock the governor so it worked right.

 

[mgonitzke]

Don-

You cannot swap in a 682 pump...the input and output shafts are different.

 

[mpatterson]

So we were lucky to get a nice skiff of snow last night. It might actually be a white Christmas!

I decided I'd try to fire up the 100 I picked up a couple weekends ago. Rolled it over about 5 times and fired right up. This puppy PURRRS!! I like it! Let it warm up for about 5 or 8 mintues in the garage while I suffled things around so I could get it out the door. Went for a little drive around the yard with it and over to wish the neighbour a Merry Christmas. Idled nicely the entire time I was stopped. Shifted gears with ease. I realized the muffler must be NEW! I burnt off that nice new smell of never burnt paint. I new the muffler was in good shape but after running it for over 1/2 hour, it proved to be very new and hardly used. BONUS! No leaks that I could find and all works well. The only thing I have discovered is the front wheel bearings need replacing. That's no big deal, wear and tear item. So come Spring I will change the oil in it and blow out the air filter and give it a nice bath.

Just wondering...what do I put in this for engine oil? I use low ash oil from IH for my Onan in my 982 - have not read up in the owners manual yet what to put in it. Just trying to grasp what all I need to purchase by Spring time.

Incase I don't get back on-line or sometimers sets in.... Merry Christmas to all! Have a safe and happy holiday. Look forward to talking to and hearing from everyone in the New Year.

 

[dfrisk]

MIKE - The IH Low Ash oil, 30W is recommended for the K-series Kohlers like your 100 has.

 

[mpatterson]

Thanks Dennis! I guess I will be stocking up a little more of that next time I visit IH. Too bad you can't buy it in bulk like the Hytran.

 

[mschutz]

I know this was discussed sometime ago but, Did the 169 come with manual lift? Also was the 169 only built 1 year? Thanks for the help and MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Dennis F. I totally agree with your 9:42 a.m. quote... " Far as trouble-shooting someone else's engine problems over the internet, I normally stay far far away from such discussions. You seldom get enough info to really understand what exactly the engine is doing." Only I am going to apply it to HYDROSTATIC TRANSMISSIONS in this case instead of engines.

To think that I took two days off work to burn up some PTO time and someone comes on the Forum with a hydro problem. No offense against anyone here only to only state that the hydro bogs down and is sluggish.... Geezz... And then provide as little information as possible to make it even more interesting...

Don Cook. Try this for starters... Sauer Danfoss 15 Series Manual to check over your hydrostatic transmission.

Okay... Here goes... Don C. I pray that you read the manual that I provided the link to quite thoroughly. If so that will give you a BIG BOOST in troubleshooting. Since you've provided us with no background as to your mechanical skills that further helps to assume that we need to start with the very basics. Not trying to upset anyone however refer back to Dennis F.'s above quote here.

Are you 100% sure the linkage isn't your holdup? Have you checked the valves or made sure to have the correct filter AND fluid? When was the last time the fluids were changed? It is possible to have a sticking check valve. Have you ruled that out?

The 15Us are very rugged and solid units. You never stated how long you've had the tractor and what you use it for. How many hours are on the tractor and not just the engine rebuild?

One final thing.... PLEASE DO NOT start taking the dang thing apart unless you are DARN SURE you know what you are doing. Yes... I may sound like a grump only as Dennis F. stated earlier.... It is darn hard to troubleshoot without much knowledge of a situation.

AND....KEEP US POSTED AS TO WHAT YOU FIND!!! It is frustrating when someone asks for help and they never reply back.