Archive through December 21, 2016

[dbcooper]

Just deleted last post, but I couldn't find a forum for after '81.

Have a 1330, just for kids to play with, no deck. Rats got to the wiring. I'd like to repair but simplify this. Don't need safeties, don't need PTO (unless there's something cool I can do w/ it). Just need it to run and charge, lights. Can someone markup up the diagram or just draw up an easy one. I've seen youtube ones, but there are more wires on this mower than I can imagine.

 

[digger]

Dan C.
It's not hard to find man.
CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment

 

[dbcooper]

Thanks for that. I'll post there. This forum doesn't exactly work like others I've used.

 

[jbkrupar]

Question on the K161 (I thought) from my 72 (Jan 1969) that I am trying to have rebuilt. The machine shop is telling me that the cylinder bore measures 2.875" but the Kohler book says 2.938" - the piston is marked standard. So is this a K161 or some other beast (K160)? The Kohler book I have shows the K141, K161 and K181 share the share the same cylinder size. I know this engine has been on this tractor since the early 1990s. Any thoughts?

 

[dkline]

OK. So my Cub is a late comer and cannot be in the "elite" crowd. "sob, sob, my older cousins are dissing me!!! Waaaah!" Just kidding all is good.
Thanks, guys for the welcomes and I will high tail it over to where I belong!
I did have a question about changing tires. Can I "shuck" a tire myself? I've only tried that with bicycles and gave up on a wheelbarrow. Or do I need to take it out to a shop. Good tire is on a really scrappy wheel, so I don't want to just change wheels.
Also, I was rather puzzled by the photo instructions on the FAQ pages. shrinking photos is something I may need a tutorial on. 100 mb seems very small. I will try to figure this out on my computer. Most pages can just drag and drop or simply upload. Thanks

 

[dschwandt]

Is this enough wear on the 2-3 shifter rod to cause jumping out of 2nd gear while plowing?

 

[lpalma]

Jim,
The early 7hp blocks had the 2 15/16 bore,the later are 2 7/8"
I was told you can bore out the 2 7/8 to a STD. bore of 2 15/16.
David,
Possibly a bent or worn shifter fork or you can weld up the low spots if in doubt.

 

[mfrade]

Daniel K., you sure can do the tires on your own. It's easier if you have 4 or 5 big / long screwdrivers or some prybars. I like to use a long bolt and pass it through the wheel bearings and clamp the bolt in a vise. Then it's just a bunch of pushing and working the tire off. use some dish soap on the tire beads to help them slide off too.

The photo limit is a "bug" that has bitten many of us! I'll admit to having found frustration in that effort! It got me again earlier tonite!!

 

[eford]

I agree with Mike on the tire change. Really difficult on the ground, I did that last year on the 1450, pain.

 

[memorgan]

Dave, I"ve always found that the wear on the gears is mostly the cause, Its usually the front of the gear that shows the wear, I"ve even seen it on larger tractors, When rebuilding transmissions for pulling, and installing new gears, it will some times solve the problem, but, we are asking a lot out of small machines that really were not built for some of the things we do with them,I have a lock built on my 122, it was on there when I ran my 10 hp. and still use it on the v twin repower....my .02 cents

 

[wcompton]

David-
You always have the option of reversing the rod and re-grooving the rod. I've done this several times just with an end mill and a drill press. Its much easier than heating the rod up (and warping it, and making it stick in the bores) with weld.

 

[dschwandt]

These are from a 104 I'm restoring.
They were rusty from condensation dripping on them so I pulled 'em out and polished them up and cleaned out the spring and poppet recesses as well as the rest of the innards as best I could.
It also has wet brakes. The plunger is stuck and the ball bearing is also missing. Have that to del with yet.

My 1200 is notorious for jumping out of 2nd when plowing is why I asked.

 

[wcompton]

Typically tooth profile and twist of the top shaft will have more to do with that.

When I built the Wheatland I replaced top shaft and all the gears (aftermarket gears don't have a lead-in chamfer) and I've only had it pop out once, and that one time may have been completely the issue with the loose nut between the seat and steering wheel.

 

[dschwandt]

Well, it's going back together the way it is.
That is soon as I get the brakes unstuck.
Probably wont get the hard use that it's had in the past, but I would like t plow w/it just once.

Copy on the extra nut!!LOL

 

[sblunier]

Dave,

Bungee cord from foot rest to foot rest over tunnel cover.......snap it over the shifter when occasionally plowing and all is well........did a whole PD with a 582 using that method!

 

[jdiederichs]

Vogel mfg. sells a heavy duty set of detent springs for the shift linkage, you may want to Google them and take a peek. I install them in our pullers and honestly, they are great!

 

[rrschmitt]

Charle,

I made a similar lift to the one pictured back in High School as my class project for machine shop class. I used a copy of the picture you posted from some magazine as my guide for building it. I scrounged steel material from our scrap metal pile at our IH dealership. It works pretty good but my ramps are straight so it takes a little work to get the back end started up when you are raising a Cub Cadet up from floor level. (I call the winch end of the lift the front.) I see the ramps in the picture are bent down at an angle at the back end which would definitely ease getting the back arm to rotate up since it doesn't go clear over to horizontal.

As for its usefulness, I found it most useful for loading and unloading Cubbies into and out of the back of pickups. It does comes in handy if you need to get underneath to work on something, like removing the steering box, but you are crawling around underneath in a squat position which isn't the most comfortable position to be in for extended time periods.

In reality I never found that I could really do much actual service work on a Cub Cadet while on the stand because I was usually needing to get at something from on the top and if the Cub Cadet is already at waist height or above, then you are having to crawl upon the lift to get at what ever it is you are needing to work on and I would just as well have it on the ground in that instance rather than risk falling off the stand.

Using it for removing blades from the mower deck for sharpening works great for the center blade but access to the outer two spindles is usually limited by the wheel ramps. I always found it easier to just pull the deck, flip it over, grab a wood block, hammer and wrench and I could have the blades off in a few minutes and ready to sharpen versus putting it on the lift, crawling underneath the stand, trying to hold the blades stationary while loosening the nut, all while getting a mouth full of grass crud and dirt in your face and eyes to boot. My $0.02.

 

[digger]

Ron S.
Cool,
Thanks for the insight.
BUT!!!!

 

[kide]

From 2008...

Still saying MERRY CHRISTMAS here in our house!!!

 

[mpatterson]

I second what Gerry said!!!

Merry Christmas everyone.