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Archive through December 21, 2008
- Thread starter aaytay
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Tom S.,
The Tractor Supply website has them listed at $41.59., But they are 4-link Maxtrac. From what I have read, I would prefer the 2-link style and I think the Maxtrac cleats might be a little rough on my asphalt driveway and street. But I don't have any experience.
I would pay a little extra for the 2-link.
The Tractor Supply website has them listed at $41.59., But they are 4-link Maxtrac. From what I have read, I would prefer the 2-link style and I think the Maxtrac cleats might be a little rough on my asphalt driveway and street. But I don't have any experience.
I would pay a little extra for the 2-link.
Thaks John, I tried some penetrating oil this morning it did seem to help. There has been more of a problem icing durring use than sitting in the shed after work. My 1250 with the exhaust out the front never gave me this problem. Friday night I had issues running from place to place, the chute would freeze. I let it sit and idle at the mother in laws and it pushed enough heat out the front to melt it off, but not while working. It just got frusterating after a while.
Ken your right about the cleats, they do raise heck with what ever they are on when they spin. Even concrette there are tell tale marksleft behind. At least on black top you can seal coat and they go away, I have marks here from 2 years ago.
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Ken-
Dennis - fortunately we have non drip oil, & gas, & battery water, but you've got to come down here to get it.
Kendell - hope he gets some good pics, I've only seen yachts heading north for Sydney for the Boxing Day Sydney Hobart race, & they were on the water (& the right way up).
Jason - yeh, been a bit busy with family & stuff. Still had time for old Engineer mates to play on Cubs.
'Sorry' for you guys with all that white stuff. The only similar here is as attached out my front window, bit of an easterly today. 22degC (72F) today, heading for 24C Christmas day, 26 weekend.
Kendell - hope he gets some good pics, I've only seen yachts heading north for Sydney for the Boxing Day Sydney Hobart race, & they were on the water (& the right way up).
Jason - yeh, been a bit busy with family & stuff. Still had time for old Engineer mates to play on Cubs.
'Sorry' for you guys with all that white stuff. The only similar here is as attached out my front window, bit of an easterly today. 22degC (72F) today, heading for 24C Christmas day, 26 weekend.
We're up here in North American dealing with snow, bitter cold, frozen Hydros, engines that won't start, burned snow blower belts, and Graeme is sitting outside sipping lemonade planning His Summer yard work!
GRAEME - I used to deal with a supplier at work based out of Auckland, NZ, About 9-10 yrs ago a round trip ticket was only $1600 US to visit them. I should have gone to visit. My Dad got to visit Sydney for a few days back in the early 1940's compliments of the US Army.
Beautiful country You live in. Wife & I will get there someday!
GRAEME - I used to deal with a supplier at work based out of Auckland, NZ, About 9-10 yrs ago a round trip ticket was only $1600 US to visit them. I should have gone to visit. My Dad got to visit Sydney for a few days back in the early 1940's compliments of the US Army.
Beautiful country You live in. Wife & I will get there someday!
Hello Guys.
I just got a Windbreaker that was on a 147. Naturally I want to stick it on a 123.
Can this be done fairly easy or what? I got the install instructions for the 147 but I don't for a 123.
My guess is the brackets are different for a 123.
Can anyone show me a pic of how I can get it to work?
Thanks.
I just got a Windbreaker that was on a 147. Naturally I want to stick it on a 123.
My guess is the brackets are different for a 123.
Can anyone show me a pic of how I can get it to work?
Thanks.
Hello fellow CC owners. I bought a 104 with a snow blower attachment a month or two ago and I ran it hard for the first time on Friday.
It ran ok for about 20 minutes but then it started sputtering and misfiring and backfiring. I was able to get it back under control back backing the throttle down and choking it a tad until the RPMs smoothed out and then I turned the choke off. When I put it away after I turned it off it backfired one more time. Any ideas what this could be? I assume it’s a carb issue and that I am going to need to rebuild the carb. It smokes a little rich on startup but I am not sure if that’s because I have yet to learn how much choke and gas to give it on a cold start.
Also, these AGs stink in the snow! I have 50lbs of weight in the rear but I think I should get some better tires, wheel weights, and chains. Can anyone make suggestions? This tractor is going to be a snow blowing, salt throwing machine and that is my only intended use for it.
Thank you,
Mark
Edit:
I might add that plans for after the winter are to take the blower apart and to media blast and repaint it.
It ran ok for about 20 minutes but then it started sputtering and misfiring and backfiring. I was able to get it back under control back backing the throttle down and choking it a tad until the RPMs smoothed out and then I turned the choke off. When I put it away after I turned it off it backfired one more time. Any ideas what this could be? I assume it’s a carb issue and that I am going to need to rebuild the carb. It smokes a little rich on startup but I am not sure if that’s because I have yet to learn how much choke and gas to give it on a cold start.
Also, these AGs stink in the snow! I have 50lbs of weight in the rear but I think I should get some better tires, wheel weights, and chains. Can anyone make suggestions? This tractor is going to be a snow blowing, salt throwing machine and that is my only intended use for it.
Thank you,
Mark
Edit:
I might add that plans for after the winter are to take the blower apart and to media blast and repaint it.
fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Graeme: Wanna trade places for awhile?
That's where she quit last night - before the storm really hit. Gelled or frozen fuel, I haven't had the courage to go out there, yet. Even Shadow won't go out! Fortunately, Jeanne's snow shovel is just outside the door! Have a great day, everyone!
That's where she quit last night - before the storm really hit. Gelled or frozen fuel, I haven't had the courage to go out there, yet. Even Shadow won't go out! Fortunately, Jeanne's snow shovel is just outside the door! Have a great day, everyone!
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Good Morning All. Quick question here. I am getting things ready to put new engine mounts and add the brace to the mount on the Keepsake 1650. I want to have everything ready so that when the weather warms I can pull the engine and have everything ready to weld and reassemble. My question is this. Since I really don't want to pull the oil pan off the engine to use as a guide and brace when welding the brace in.... What other engine oil pans can I use as a brace and distance guide? I checked the parts lookup and compared and if I am reading correctly the 125 and 1650 share the same oil pan.
Or has the cold weather finally gotten to me? TIA.
Temperature is hanging single digits this morning so I am not working on any Cub until it warms up.
Temperature is hanging single digits this morning so I am not working on any Cub until it warms up.
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- Brian Branstetter
Mark,
I'll let those who are a little more experianced motor wise, field your engine question but I will comment on your tire situation.
It has been the general consensuse amoung the forum that turf tires and two link chains are the way to go. I even went out and bought another set of used rims and tires just to keep mounted for snow duty. With ags, there great for land plowing, disking and ground engaging work but when it comes to snow the ags don't keep the full width of the chain in contact with the surface. For that matter there is no reason you can't do land plowing with turfs and chains equally as well as just ags but most folks go for the look. Hope this helps.
I'll let those who are a little more experianced motor wise, field your engine question but I will comment on your tire situation.
It has been the general consensuse amoung the forum that turf tires and two link chains are the way to go. I even went out and bought another set of used rims and tires just to keep mounted for snow duty. With ags, there great for land plowing, disking and ground engaging work but when it comes to snow the ags don't keep the full width of the chain in contact with the surface. For that matter there is no reason you can't do land plowing with turfs and chains equally as well as just ags but most folks go for the look. Hope this helps.
Dean S., to help reduce the chances of a snowthrower discharge chute freezing up do THIS Note that if you put a heavy coat of graphite paint on the areas where the chute rotates and on the retainer clips, they do not freeze up as readily.
Well I finally got a chance to test out Killer with a real load. I have to report that I'm afraid that my old snowthrower belt may not hold up to the added HP and RPM. Who cares, this engine rocks!
To bad I was home alone and didn't have anyone to take a video. More snow is on the way, I'll try to get some video and photos. -16.9° this morning at my place. Only 60.8° inside before I fired the wood furnace back up.
Well I finally got a chance to test out Killer with a real load. I have to report that I'm afraid that my old snowthrower belt may not hold up to the added HP and RPM. Who cares, this engine rocks!
Kent, I have some details photos of the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Windbreaker cab and brackets on my 125 that I could email that might help. Let me know if you want me to send them.
Jason D,
Sorry to hear of your S/G troubles. Upon looking at your pictures, I agree your #1 S/G has a problem with the field winding in the housing being unwrapped and looks like some arcing has occurred. However, don't be too quick to assume that your armature is shot. It looks like it maybe fine as long as the insulation is not broken or no obvious signs of arcing. The insulation will get darker with age and heat and the dust from the brushes will make everything look bad. Your #2 S/G components look fine from the pictures, of course can't see everything in the picts but I don't see anything that looks like a problem with it. The fields and wrapping looks good in the housing and the armature looks good too. You do need a new set of brushes for it though.
If it were mine, I'd blow everything out good with compressed air and wipe the parts with a rag, clean the armature communtator with some fine sand paper and blow off the dust and make sure the groves between the segments are clean, install a new set of bearings and brushes and put it back together. If your still not sure I would recommend you take it to a place that works on older generators and have them check the armatures out with a growler. Also be sure to check that the plastic insulators on the field and armature posts are sound, where your wire cables attach, and not all cracked up that sometimes happens with age and weather exposure. These old S/G's are pretty easy to repair with a little time and know how. It's unfortunate that most automotive places don't want to work on them anymore but rather sell you a rebuilt unit.
Finally, I agree witn Harry on your #3 generator with the open ends, its not a S/G but rather a regular generator. You should see some pronounced differences between the armatures and fields if you compare them closely. Hope this helps and good luck.
Sorry to hear of your S/G troubles. Upon looking at your pictures, I agree your #1 S/G has a problem with the field winding in the housing being unwrapped and looks like some arcing has occurred. However, don't be too quick to assume that your armature is shot. It looks like it maybe fine as long as the insulation is not broken or no obvious signs of arcing. The insulation will get darker with age and heat and the dust from the brushes will make everything look bad. Your #2 S/G components look fine from the pictures, of course can't see everything in the picts but I don't see anything that looks like a problem with it. The fields and wrapping looks good in the housing and the armature looks good too. You do need a new set of brushes for it though.
If it were mine, I'd blow everything out good with compressed air and wipe the parts with a rag, clean the armature communtator with some fine sand paper and blow off the dust and make sure the groves between the segments are clean, install a new set of bearings and brushes and put it back together. If your still not sure I would recommend you take it to a place that works on older generators and have them check the armatures out with a growler. Also be sure to check that the plastic insulators on the field and armature posts are sound, where your wire cables attach, and not all cracked up that sometimes happens with age and weather exposure. These old S/G's are pretty easy to repair with a little time and know how. It's unfortunate that most automotive places don't want to work on them anymore but rather sell you a rebuilt unit.
Finally, I agree witn Harry on your #3 generator with the open ends, its not a S/G but rather a regular generator. You should see some pronounced differences between the armatures and fields if you compare them closely. Hope this helps and good luck.
bbrigham
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- Brendan Brigham
Mark...If you are having to use the choke to run it , it's not getting enough gas. With your backfire problem...is it a backfire or is it popping out the exhaust ? I suspect it's popping out the exhaust, back the throttle down and let it idle for a while.
With a thrower on the front 50#'s isn't going to be enough weight. I have 150# weights on mine and at times I would like to still have more. Chains on turfs I think are the way to go for snow but those ags should work all right if you had enough weight.
With a thrower on the front 50#'s isn't going to be enough weight. I have 150# weights on mine and at times I would like to still have more. Chains on turfs I think are the way to go for snow but those ags should work all right if you had enough weight.
Brendan - Like My Buddy who lives in Moline said yesterday about cleaning the 1/2 inch of ice off His concrete driveway Saturday afternoon. He has one of those green tractors, a 317, 42# wheel weight on each rear wheel, plus a 125# weight hanging on the back off one of His full size farm tractors, Plus chains. When He switched from the blower to the blade He said He would have to add FIVE more 125# slab weights if He was going to use the blade on a regular basis.
Saw a post on the RPM forum yesterday, Guy had over 1500# of IH wheel weights sitting on the drawbar of a 560 Farmall w/loader. I was looking over the drawbar of My Super H last night, I could fit 600# with no problem, any more and I'd have to remove the PTO shield, My tractor already has 600# of wheel weights, 1000# of fluid, HEAVY chains, 300-400# for the pair. And it's not too heavy on the backend.
When moving snow, WEIGHT is Your friend!
Saw a post on the RPM forum yesterday, Guy had over 1500# of IH wheel weights sitting on the drawbar of a 560 Farmall w/loader. I was looking over the drawbar of My Super H last night, I could fit 600# with no problem, any more and I'd have to remove the PTO shield, My tractor already has 600# of wheel weights, 1000# of fluid, HEAVY chains, 300-400# for the pair. And it's not too heavy on the backend.
When moving snow, WEIGHT is Your friend!
