Archive through December 20, 2008

[bhoyt]

About what does it cost to get into cub pulling?
http://www.renaissanceracing.com/Albums/Cars/Pictures/OtherCars/slides/LawnTractorFront.html

This tractor is not really a good base to start from and I would really like to just mow the lawn with this once I get a deck for it.

I found this tractor that looks cool and seems like it would be fun to pull. Any ideas would something like this would cost?
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2321/1713561575_8603e543f6.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2163/1714157738_906868919a.jpg?v=0
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2343/1712930839_006b41b620.jpg?v=0

 

[jlhayes]

I ask a fellow that at a pull one time and he said he wouldn't tell his wife cause he quit counting after $10.000 you can pull as cheap as a couple hundred dollars.

depends how serious you want to get.

 

[kredlinger]

Any of us would really be pulling a price out of our bums just by looking at those pics you posted but those thress would probably be anywhere from $2000-10k depending on how much the owners did themselves, what was done to engines & the transmissions. Couple hundred gets you started with good rubber & a nice little stock engine using factory parts & some elbow grease.

 

[bsturgill]

Pulling can get really expensive quick, I know my tractor I have approx $2500, BUT I basically have a stock engine with a dual barrel, some work to the transmission, two pulling gears with a fine spline axle/carrier that I have sets all the time
image\(twin 1}
Now the boys tractor I bought cheap, a JD 208 that was a little set up for tires weights and a Massey Fergeson 7 with two 8 hp briggs, after some wheeling and dealing- I have about $125 in it, I bought the John Deere and Massey for $200 for the pair but sold the new tires off the Massey and then the factor Narrow front deere wheels getting me to $20 for both tractors, then modifed the deere with the drop axle and better Firestone Field and Roads off another tractor I bought and sold, modified an old alum front weight bracket for the front
image{jd}

 

[kredlinger]

Hey Brain, I see you have independant zoomies for your exhaust. We've done quite a few dyno tests with both stock & altered twins & each likes having a collector built into the header. Really opens up the power band & helps out torque. I'm rebuilding two of mine that turned out to restrict the exhaust flow too much & will be doing more dyno runs aroumnd late January or early Feb.

 

[bsturgill]

Kyle, that was the first set of pipes I had on my tractor but converted to a 2 into 1 center pipe up through the hood, I got the pipe from Mid Atlantic Performance, IT made a BIG difference in how the motor ran. I was going ot ask if you have ever experiented with a vertical intake off the command?? I am switching the 25hp from the stock dual barrel carb and intake to a vertical intake and adapter plate and reworked down draft carb. I just picked up a vertical 30hp and thought of playing around with the vertical dual manifold and make a reducer plate to mount the down draft carb too, any suggestions???? Also do you know how much advantage are JE or other flat top pistons in a mild stock altered engine?? I have a buddy that made me a adjustable flywheel from a stock one to run the 4500 RPM which I'm adding, a reground cam and worked over carb, mild port and polish job on the 30hp heads( which I didn't have before)

I did pick up some JE pistons for magnum engines REALLY CHEAP!!!! I am going to bore out an 18 command and put the pistons in for stock altered around here, BUT the downfall is I have to get aftermarket rods to get the compression height right, or trying to see if the shorter 30hp stock rods will give me what I need, just some of my little ideas I have rolling around in my head!!

 

[kredlinger]

<font size="+1">Brian, I'd go with the plastic haroizontal intake with that down draft. It flows very well even without being reworked. If the budget allows, really go after the longer rods to help fill the cylinders better, you'll be happy you did! I Am! The 30hp heads are a good choice for the stock & limited rpm altered classes but I didn't likethe end result from my open rpm altered. Had better numbers with the reworked open chamber 18hp heads.</font>

 

[bsturgill]

Kyle, Are you going to the Hillard Nationals Pull in January in Columbus OHIO??

 

[kredlinger]

No, staying put until March

 

[bsturgill]

Kyle, If I deceiced to bore out the 18hp to almost a 22hp with the magnum JE pistons I have, the compression height is 0.100 taller on the pistons I have, I know I have to compensate for that extra height, so that is why I was thinking to go to a shorter stroke rod. I have been thinking of any way to reduce the "pop out" of 0.100 from shaving the top of the piston, thick head gaskets but the shorter rods were the only "quick fix" I came up with. I know a little pop out would be good but you can't get carried away i or a valve will hit or piston will hit the head

 

[kredlinger]

You could have a machine shop offset bore the rods for bearings.

 

[bhoyt]

Has anyone considered sectioning 2 Original Cub frames together and running two 7hp engines stacked one in front of the other? Looks like it could be done very easily. It also looks like I could even run dual drive clutches. I am considering doing it and mowing the lawn that way.

 

[bhoyt]

Can someone point me to a site that outlines the different garden tractor pulling classes available?

 

[gklapp]

Brennan, here's a photo of a narrow frame with two in a row;

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10191151@N05/3140552503/sizes/o/

http://picasaweb.google.com/Thunderbolt515/Mowerstractors?authkey=wMZtdT-wtX0#5284482468925577378

 

[gklapp]

Brennan, I seriously doubt that you'd want to mow with such a long wheelbase tractor, not practical at all with a wide turning radius, it'd be o.k. for a pulling tractor though. As for classes available there is pretty much a class somewhere for any combination that you can think of. The important thing is what classes are in your area, check out the clubs in your region to see what they have. Geo

 

[kredlinger]

Brennan, check out http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/hotlinks.htm for links to other pulling sites & start reading some of the rules, especially in the the Orlando area.

 

[gklapp]

Brennan, here are the National Quarter Scale Series classes. not all clubs run all of the classes (or any for that matter) but may have something quite similar, some clubs run one or two NQS classes. there is some variance in "stock" class rules between clubs, stock classes are usually divided up by horsepower ratings and engine type/cylinders, weights and sometimes rpms. in some areas there are clubs that have the same classes or minor differences easily adjusted so that you can pull in several clubs, many New York clubs now have some shared classes. of course if you run an NQS class you can pull anywhere that runs that class. As for costs you usually get what you pay for, say $1000. and up, you sometimes can get a nice used Pro Stock style pulling tractor in the $4000-6000 area, also have seen nice starter tractors $2000-3000 (Stocks and Altereds). You could have 10 G's in a cutting edge puller. sometimes I see package deals with trailers and with motivated sellers now is a good time to buy. Nice thing about this sport is it's fairly inexpensive relative to many other motorsports once you get past the initial upfront but first you need to know where to start class wise.

http://www.nqspulling.com/

 

[gklapp]

Brennan, the first and third tractors you posted were listed on eBay.com

 

[bhoyt]

The picture of the twin cub the was posted. Is that a 100? I can't really read the number in the picture.

 

[memorgan]

Just wanted to post a shot of my stock puller. It's a 106 that I rescued from the scrap yard. I wish I could find my before pics coz this thing was a pile of junk when I found it. It;s a 12hp stocker